lowering?
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T-bird Tim
Registered User
My friend did it on his 90 model with no issues. It retained more of the original ride quality than actual lowering springs and saved a bunch of money. Just make sure you take it to a shop that knows what they are doing. Above all, at no time let them heat the coils to drop it as this weakens the steels ability to contract and expand, resulting in a crappy ride.
seawalkersee
Registered User
Thats how I lowered mine. No problems thus far. I only went 3/4 of an inch by measuring off of the coils at unsprung weight. It ended up being like a full coil. You could get away with more. I recomend taking 1/4 to 1/2 of a coil extra off of the front. I took the same coil off of the rear and now it sits JUST a bit lower than the front. Not noticable, but if you measure it you will see it. Also, I have a ton of weight in my trunk from a dual 12" speaker setup.
Chris
Chris
thunderkid84
Registered User
so basically just take the coils out and bring em to a machine shop and tell them u want however many coils cut off ?
Micahdogg
Registered User
We did this to a friends 1994. The recipe which I have seen proven time and time again is cut 1.5 coils off the front and 1 off the back. You have to cut from the bottom, because the top of the spring tapers off to be perfectly flush. The bottom just keeps coiling and sits inside a rubber isolator to make it flush on the bottom.
For the rear, you disconnect you basically disconnect your shock, sway bar end link and either the single top spindle bolt or two bottoms. Then you can seperate the upper control arm from the lower. Just stand on the lower control arm to flex it downward as much as possible and the spring can be wiggled out. use a cutoff wheel and angle grinder and 15 seconds later the coil is cut and you can pop it back in.
Fronts, a little messier. You have to yank the entire shock which isn't so bad in and of itself, but we rented spring compressors and man you really have to compress that spring in order to remove the retaining cap. I really did not enjoy this part at all since there is so much tension, but at this point you could just take your shocks somewhere to have them removed.
Turned out great.
BTW, ^ 94 5-speed for sale!!!
For the rear, you disconnect you basically disconnect your shock, sway bar end link and either the single top spindle bolt or two bottoms. Then you can seperate the upper control arm from the lower. Just stand on the lower control arm to flex it downward as much as possible and the spring can be wiggled out. use a cutoff wheel and angle grinder and 15 seconds later the coil is cut and you can pop it back in.
Fronts, a little messier. You have to yank the entire shock which isn't so bad in and of itself, but we rented spring compressors and man you really have to compress that spring in order to remove the retaining cap. I really did not enjoy this part at all since there is so much tension, but at this point you could just take your shocks somewhere to have them removed.
Turned out great.
BTW, ^ 94 5-speed for sale!!!
thunderkid84
Registered User
and that will lower the car how much ??
We did this to a friends 1994. The recipe which I have seen proven time and time again is cut 1.5 coils off the front and 1 off the back. You have to cut from the bottom, because the top of the spring tapers off to be perfectly flush. The bottom just keeps coiling and sits inside a rubber isolator to make it flush on the bottom.
For the rear, you disconnect you basically disconnect your shock, sway bar end link and either the single top spindle bolt or two bottoms. Then you can seperate the upper control arm from the lower. Just stand on the lower control arm to flex it downward as much as possible and the spring can be wiggled out. use a cutoff wheel and angle grinder and 15 seconds later the coil is cut and you can pop it back in.
Fronts, a little messier. You have to yank the entire shock which isn't so bad in and of itself, but we rented spring compressors and man you really have to compress that spring in order to remove the retaining cap. I really did not enjoy this part at all since there is so much tension, but at this point you could just take your shocks somewhere to have them removed.
Turned out great.
BTW, ^ 94 5-speed for sale!!!
looks perfectly even.
I wouldn't say that. your way is better I just don't have the extra 600+- to do it the best way. When I can afford a set of progressives and shocks(bilstein and tockicos) I will probably do that. And I would say 1.5" max cutting springs otherwise it's going to start to ride like poop.
Sorry man... It really obvious alot of the times when you have seen guys that have cut the stock springs, only to watch them bounce there way to their destination because they have taken out the effective range of the stock springs with the cut.
I know its tough money wise at times... but in your case, personally I'd leave the ole girl at stock height with the stock spring till you can afford the right stuff. Its all in prioritizing whats important on your car. If you need to go with 20" wheels and the the car looks like a truck cause of it with big wheel wells, I would go with using that money to get the ride lowered first with the right stuff.... I did mine that way, and I'm still running the stock wheels, but when I get my new wheels
I know its tough money wise at times... but in your case, personally I'd leave the ole girl at stock height with the stock spring till you can afford the right stuff. Its all in prioritizing whats important on your car. If you need to go with 20" wheels and the the car looks like a truck cause of it with big wheel wells, I would go with using that money to get the ride lowered first with the right stuff.... I did mine that way, and I'm still running the stock wheels, but when I get my new wheels
Scott Long
Registered User
I put KYB's on my SC and cut 1.5 and like 1.5 and my car is slammed. Start off with 1 on the rear and if you want lower go 1/4 coil at a time till it sits right.
thunderkid84
Registered User
after reading this thread, i figured i'd search for more info on cutting coils to lower. and i find these threads (from way back) telling everyone "DO NOT cut the coils".
after hearing that Micah and Tim did it with no problems I damn near went out and starting takin my springs out lol.
just wondering why the contrasting opinions ?
after hearing that Micah and Tim did it with no problems I damn near went out and starting takin my springs out lol.
just wondering why the contrasting opinions ?
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Scott Long
Registered User
Jason,
I did it. I think if I take the rear sway bar end links off the car will really tuck tire. I don't suggest cutting as much off the rear as I did. I will cut another set of rear springs, and then get the proper end links in the spring. If I don't swap my engine/trans over to a 35th Anniversary....
If you were here at W.P. AFB I'd say come look at the car, its over at the auto hobby center.
I sent you an email to an address I found on the global for you, did you get it?
I did it. I think if I take the rear sway bar end links off the car will really tuck tire. I don't suggest cutting as much off the rear as I did. I will cut another set of rear springs, and then get the proper end links in the spring. If I don't swap my engine/trans over to a 35th Anniversary....
If you were here at W.P. AFB I'd say come look at the car, its over at the auto hobby center.
I sent you an email to an address I found on the global for you, did you get it?
thunderkid84
Registered User
no havent gotten that email.
how many coils did ya cut scott ?
i just wanna lower 1.5", thats it
how many coils did ya cut scott ?
i just wanna lower 1.5", thats it
Tory Smith
Registered User
Well it looks like I just wasted money on getting a set of coils then designed for the best ride at that height for nothing then
I've got a torch in the garage that would cut, and I can get the ultimate ride that way????
MAN was I suckered.
Use a cut off wheel, or a sawsall.
A torch will weakin the spring. I remember in the day. My dad had an old cheby truck. 72 I think, with the rear coil springs, He just heated the springs with a torch until the truck sat at a decent ride highth.
So If you cut your spring with a torch you may end up lower than you expected with the loss of the coils and also weaking of the springs.
Tory Smith
Registered User
There is an easier way to pull the front springs... and you don't need to compress the spring.
I always pull the tire, Jack up the spindle, undo the top nut and the upper ball joint, leaving the upper spring perch bolted to the car. Then you can lower the jack and the spring will decompress, When it is fully decompressed the strut will be able to pull away from the car. Slip the spring off the strut and replace.
I hope that all made sense.
Tory
I always pull the tire, Jack up the spindle, undo the top nut and the upper ball joint, leaving the upper spring perch bolted to the car. Then you can lower the jack and the spring will decompress, When it is fully decompressed the strut will be able to pull away from the car. Slip the spring off the strut and replace.
I hope that all made sense.
Tory
seawalkersee
Registered User
You can not use a sawzall to cut springs. You will need a cut off wheel. 1.5 round off of the front and 1 off of the rear.
Chris
Chris
Micahdogg
Registered User
Wow, that is tight man, never thought of that.
BTW, the reason people say to not cut springs is because they just spent $250 on springs and don't want to feel like they wasted their money. So they offer reasons why not to do it. Same reason why people bad mouth certain parts....see what they are using first and there usually lies the reason. No one wants to feel like they wasted money, but it happens all the time.
BTW, the reason people say to not cut springs is because they just spent $250 on springs and don't want to feel like they wasted their money. So they offer reasons why not to do it. Same reason why people bad mouth certain parts....see what they are using first and there usually lies the reason. No one wants to feel like they wasted money, but it happens all the time.
Scott Long
Registered User
I can speak from experience, don't cut springs on a small car like a cavalier, the springs are about as thick as my pinky and are weak. I cut the springs on my wife's Z24 and it slammed it, it looked awesome, the rear was easy to do since I cut the bottom and it had to sit on the strut with angled cut.
The fronts were different I cut the bottom and it would not seat right in the strut which caused the upper bearing in the mount to sit sideways unless I lowered it down off the jack VERY slowly, but then the first bump in the road you hit would jar it loose and the bearing would slide and then it would clunk.
The TBird springs are VERY thick and I couldn't get my spring compressors on the springs. I just pulled the fronts off and loosened them in the driveway with my impact and they popped apart in my yard. I just stood back and watched it fly.
I cut 1.5 coils off the front and 1.5 in the rear. My rear sits a tad too low so I'd say go 1 coil in the rear and then adjust from there. I wasn't happy with 1 in the rear so I kept cutting more until it sat how I wanted.
I have never bottomed it out. When I PCS'd from Keesler to Wright Patterson I had the car loaded with over 400 lbs of stuff in the back seat and the trunk and the car handled great.
Ideally I'd like the rear about 1/8" higher than it is but oh well. My 92 w/ eibachs sits lower, with the same 225/60/16 tires my 90 has. The 90 looks lower though, but when parked next to the 92 the 92 is lower. I can't figure out why, the 92 has very little fender gap, and the 90 has none.
The fronts were different I cut the bottom and it would not seat right in the strut which caused the upper bearing in the mount to sit sideways unless I lowered it down off the jack VERY slowly, but then the first bump in the road you hit would jar it loose and the bearing would slide and then it would clunk.
The TBird springs are VERY thick and I couldn't get my spring compressors on the springs. I just pulled the fronts off and loosened them in the driveway with my impact and they popped apart in my yard. I just stood back and watched it fly.
I cut 1.5 coils off the front and 1.5 in the rear. My rear sits a tad too low so I'd say go 1 coil in the rear and then adjust from there. I wasn't happy with 1 in the rear so I kept cutting more until it sat how I wanted.
I have never bottomed it out. When I PCS'd from Keesler to Wright Patterson I had the car loaded with over 400 lbs of stuff in the back seat and the trunk and the car handled great.
Ideally I'd like the rear about 1/8" higher than it is but oh well. My 92 w/ eibachs sits lower, with the same 225/60/16 tires my 90 has. The 90 looks lower though, but when parked next to the 92 the 92 is lower. I can't figure out why, the 92 has very little fender gap, and the 90 has none.