fuel pump?

catwithboost

Registered User
What tells the fuel pump to not come on?My pump will come on running the self test jumper but that is it .Is it the AFPR that is bad and tells the pump it has enough pressue?
 
The fuel pressure regulator is a mechanical device just like on an air compressor, so no that wouldn't do it.

If it comes on through the self test (I have never tried that test before, but I am aware of it), then the inertia switch should be on. Does the pump turn on when you turn the key on (for 2 seconds)?

If it comes on sometimes and sometimes it doesn't, then it could be a bad relay(located next to the inertia switch), a bad inertia switch, the wiring harness (there are 2 connections, one at the tank and one on the body of the car) or the fuel pump itself.

next time I change my fuel pump, Im going to cut a hole under the rear seat so I don't have to mess with dropping the tank to fool with it. And of course a plate to go over the hole.

Jeff
 
The inertia switch (that’s it’s name, if you get into a wreck it shuts off the fuel pump) is located on the left side of the trunk, looks like a circuit breaker, behind the carpet, it has a button on top and a red and a white wire coming out of the bottom. The fuel pump relay is right next to it it’s green if I remember right.

Jeff
 
test

Is there a way to test which one it is?Or which one to replace first. Never mind I put a jumper wire between the white and red wire on the shut off shitch and car runs.So I guess it is that one thanks.
 
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Food for thought?? :

OKay, the Inertia Switch is inline of the main fuel pump power leads (IE from the `fuel pump' fuse and battery... )

The fuel pump relay, well turns the main power on/off to the pump, Postive side to the ingition switch `run', negitive to the EEC and Test connector

So.. If doing the self test connector jumper wire thing.. and you can get the fuel pump to run, it really shouldn't be either of those two, and could be the EEC itself.. and the connector between the EEC and Self test connector??

Heh I'm not at home, so i can't help too much.. but just thought to add this.. :)

But if by-passing the Ineria switch works.. all the better, sincei've heard those do go bad time to time..
 
What does the test actually do? Does it

A: Jumper ground (or positive) to an input on the EEC?
B: Jumper ground (or positive) to the fuel pump relay?
Or
C: something else.

I recently had a problem with my air horns for my alarm. I had changed the fender and removed the factory horns. Needing to get the car to pass inspection, (You Colorado guys are lucky) I needed to use the air horns as my main horn also. I hooked up a button to the relay that my alarm used and used diodes do not to feed back to the alarm.

I tried the switch and nothing, so I set the alarm off and Whamo! there they went. I removed the diode (I checked and checked and it was in correctly, and the voltage to the relay only showed the .7V drop that it should, besides a relay will pull in with less than 9V). I also removed the connection from the alarm. Still no luck. Went back and forth testing and testing. Even replaced all the wiring and three different switches, and EVERY time it would work with the alarm, and Nadda with the switch. Finally after 3 hours I got it to work correctly.

Next day on the way to the inspection station after driving 30 miles, and 5 miles from the station I pushed the button, and it worked. I am watching the guy inspect the car to keep him distracted as possible, he tries the Horn and nothing. I tested and pushed and nothing. Ok so I ask him if there is an auto parts store around I'll get a new relay. Get the relay (and a new gas cap, it was bad). Put the new relay in and all I get out is a short blast. The guy said ok and I kept my mouth shut.

It was the compressor.

Jeff
 
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