CEL on, Car won't stay running Unless I push Gas Pedal

Want2LearnTBIRD

Want2LearnTBIRD

Banned
Ok on Friday my car was running perfectly fine except for a high idle. I got home and it was raining. I opened my hood to do some little things. I put the heat shield on for my filter and replaced the coupler from my intake tube to the TB. I don't know what happened but today, i started my car for the first time since Fri and it was ugly. As soon as i started it would not stay on unless i played with the gas pedal to keep it running and the check engine light had came on. I started driving and every time i pushed the clutch in to shift the car would slowly start to die. When i push the gas pedal to accelerate it would surge and buck sort of then it would start going good. I have no idea what I could have done to cause this. I know my MAF electronics are messed up, and the idle hopefully will be fixed by a new IAC and gasket. I posted pictures on photobucket, and if anyone can look at them and see anything that looks awkward or wrong let me know, or if you can diagnose the problem from what I wrote i would really appreciate it.

http://s241.photobucket.com/albums/ff251/ericlacivita/
 
There should be an oring that seals the electronics to the C&L MAF housing...unplug maf and see if it runs better.

David
 
Unplugged the MAF this morning, started the car and same thing happened. I couldn't keep it running unless i played with the gas... :confused:
 
Same thing happened with my 89 5speed when I installed my cold air intake. I was in a rush to see the difference in performance and I forgot to plug in my MAF. I would definatly say your MAF wires or MAF sensor. Good Luck.
 
It sounds like you definitely have a leak somewhere. I just had the same kind of problem and found a crack in my intercooler by spraying carburator cleaner all over. When the spray hits the leak the rpm raise up quite noticeably. Since you're getting a CEL, run the codes, that may pinpoint it. I do know that disconnecting the MAF sensor will throw a code.
 
Mike Puckett said:
It sounds like you definitely have a leak somewhere. I just had the same kind of problem and found a crack in my intercooler by spraying carburator cleaner all over. When the spray hits the leak the rpm raise up quite noticeably. Since you're getting a CEL, run the codes, that may pinpoint it. I do know that disconnecting the MAF sensor will throw a code.
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Ya i have the carb cleaner ready to spray to find a leak, the only problem is i can't keep the car running without me in it pushing the gas pedal to check for the leak lol. Hopefully when i get my new MAF electronics this problem will be fixed, but i'm a little worried it won't do the trick...

And i don't have a code reader to run the codes so thats ruled out.....:eek:
 
Iac

I had the same prob when I first got the bird and it was the IAC wouldnt stay on unless i held the gas. But looking at your past posts it looks like you replaced it. or was it just the gasket.

You gotta find a way to get those codes read
 
badfreakinbird said:
I had the same prob when I first got the bird and it was the IAC wouldnt stay on unless i held the gas. But looking at your past posts it looks like you replaced it. or was it just the gasket.

You gotta find a way to get those codes read
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No i still have stock iac, all i did was put on a gasket (when i took it off for the first time, there wasn't one there) but i'm almost positive its bad but my car just suddenly starting doing this after working on it fri. So i know the iac isnt responsible for my problems. I'm praying when i get my new MAF electronics the problem will disappear or i be very sad, confused, and angry...
 
When mine wouldn't stay running I just kept goosing the gas pedal and finally it warmed up enough to just barely keep running so I could spray the CC fluid. I know what you mean about not having anybody to help. I have that problem a lot of times. There is a way to get one of the dash lights to blink to display the codes but I'm not sure how to do it.
 
When your spraying the motor with CC you can keep it started from the thottle body just like the gas pedal does. But it definatly still sounds like your MAF. My $.02
 
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the little wires on the maf electronics are all broken up hanging there only connected to one of the posts... and the top of the censor is cracked also... i saw pictures of it, its destroyed... I suggested IAC too. he had set TB just about alllll the way shut, and closed the IAc screw ALOT, and it wouldnt idle below like 2500....TPS voltage is right on so Im told so.. iac ftw
 
I had this problem a couple times
Once was years ago and it was a vacuum leak.
The second time was just a couple months ago and I had an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator and I had too much fuel pressure so once I turned down the presure the car stayed running with no problems since.
John
 
his car is stock with stock FPR.
I think Dans going over to his house this weekend to try and sort everything else with him. He's goign to bring an IAC with him and swap it out see if it works.
he had a extremly high idle, around 2800 i think, so he closed down the TB a bit more and closed down the IAC some too, enough to where I'd think it wouldnt run, so we could go from there. But when he did this car still idled at 2500.. Right now the Tb and IAC are still opn the closed side as far as I know, but are in same spots they were when it idled high at 2500...
 
thunderkid84 said:
i doubt he was has any vacuum leaks. he only removed from the filter to the TB.

how did u bang up your MAF wires like that ?

i'll find u a link on how to PROPERLY set your idle.

as promised.....http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31596
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Dude i don't know how the sensor got like the way it was but thats how i got it...I do not know much about cars and what to look for if somethings broken so if there is something not right in the car I wouldn't know it wasn't right unless it was completely obvious. Thats why when I was talking to Miller trying to figure out what was wrong i noticed that crack on my MAF sensor and asked a question and here we are...

I have been talking to Dan and I believe we are setting up for him to come meet me this weekend, so hopefully everything will be straightened out by then....
 
Idle? Your tach's on 0. It must have just stalled. If that's your idle vacuum, I can see why it won't run. I've found that any kind of leak after the MAF really causes problems. Don't be surprised if you find more than one. You're probably running extremely lean when it does run. Good luck on finding your leak. Having just gone thru that I know what you're up against. You need a remote starter switch so you start it while you're under the hood. Mine would just barely idle after it warmed up a bit so I was able to spray and keep it running.
 
Mike Puckett said:
Idle? Your tach's on 0. It must have just stalled. If that's your idle vacuum, I can see why it won't run. I've found that any kind of leak after the MAF really causes problems. Don't be surprised if you find more than one. You're probably running extremely lean when it does run. Good luck on finding your leak. Having just gone thru that I know what you're up against. You need a remote starter switch so you start it while you're under the hood. Mine would just barely idle after it warmed up a bit so I was able to spray and keep it running.
Click to expand...

lol its a video dude, you have to click it!!!
 
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