BHJ Balancers

Flex

Registered User
Bought two of these used with very low miles. On one the seller said only 300 miles. Both were extremely rusty. Is this common?

Not very impressed with such an expensive product rusting so quickly. If this is common, anyone found a way to prevent rust from forming?
 
Bought two of these used with very low miles. On one the seller said only 300 miles. Both were extremely rusty. Is this common?

Not very impressed with such an expensive product rusting so quickly. If this is common, anyone found a way to prevent rust from forming?

BHJ

They do rust if in cold wet areas its best to wash it with salvent with rag than spary it with clear VHT spray paint real light coat. Note never get anything on the crank trigger sensor flange and the area that the drive pulley seats in
 
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The instructions that come from BHJ say they should be painted or clear coated.

Sounds like a step some people overlooked, like getting them balanced to match the old balancer, checking the fit, or sealing the keyway. Makes me wonder how many get installed with a rubber mallet (Haynes).
 
For what they cost they should come with a coating.

Mine is rusting too but I'm not going to do anything about it right this minute until I have to take it off, then I'll paint it black and put it back on.

They don't need to be balanced, they are neutral. The old crank pulley needs to be balanced with the BHJ so they are neutral, but I used new underdrive pulleys that came nuetral.

Also having to hone the thing to get it to fit, and go buy a long bolt and washer to get it on, what a pain. It was however easier to make it fit and install it than it was for me to get the old broken stock one off.
 
Duffy,

I bought them used so they came that way. I received no instructions with them, just the balancers and a bolt. Both sellers claimed minimal mileage ~ 300 miles. I put that on in 2 weeks of driving in the summer. We're talking about A LOT of rust.

My point, in agreement is Scott Long, that at $400, they should already come clear coated or powder coated.
 
An argument to that is some folks will probably want to paint it a colour that matches their car setup, and having to remove existing clear coat or paint can be a pain as well.

I'd rather be spraying a coat of paint or what ever on than trying to remove whats on there already then painting.
 
Scott,

The reason that you had to hone it before installation is that not all SC Crank Snouts are the same diameter. Better to custom hone it to fit with the proper interference than to have a loose one once installed.

I agree...hard to make everyone happy. As soon as you clear coat them or paint them someone will want something else to be offered.
 
Well it could be really simple. They could offer a clear powder coated version or a bare unit for those that wish to color the piece.
 
Well it could be really simple. They could offer a clear powder coated version or a bare unit for those that wish to color the piece.

And add another $100 to $200 to the cost.... nae thanks. I'll clear coat it myself for the cost of a spray can and some masking tape.
 
You shouldn't power coating the balancer.

It is not recommended that you pwder coat the BHJ balancer because of the bake temperature. The rubbery material used between the hub and ring is not rated for the necessary 400 temperature.
 
That's the whole point. We're not talking about a Walmart $49.99 piece here. These damn things sell for almost $400. They should hold up to a few years of driving and not look like a $10 piece of ~~~~.

Spyder, the two halves could be coated prior to being pressed together. That way the rubber would not be affected.
 
I purchased a BHJ balancer, and have been 100% satisfied with it. Followed the included instructions, and used a clear paint to coat it after dimensions were checked, and timing marks made.
 
Mike,

I have an idea. I will send you both balancers and you can paint them for me:) Just kidding. I know it's easy enough to do when new, I just think these guys are being cheap.
 
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