So I'm putting my car back together and working on the intake when my dad hits the gas to teh floor, and the throttle is NOT all the way open...How do I adjust the throttle/cable so that it opens the throttle all the way? I have the 85mm MP TB if that makes any difference.
Throttle Adjustment...
- Thread starter johnrada
- Start date
Mike8675309
Registered User
What keeps it from opening all the way? Check around the linkage. It may be that the throttle blade hangs up in the bore, or the throttle actuator could catch the lower left stud from the intake plenum.
Don't forget to check your TPS values as well.
Don't forget to check your TPS values as well.
How do I check the values?
It isn't hung up on anything, I think that there is too much spring? I took it off and gave the cable more room to move, but it gives me 2 options.
I leave it more than closed, so the pedal can move from more than closed to WOT.
Or I have it so that it can be fully closed, but at full throttle does not achieve WOT.
I can't really explain it better than that, but using fractions I have the option to have either: 1/20 to WOT, or 0 to 7/8 throttle.
I hope that makes sense heh.
I know it shouldn't ever be a little open with no throttle being applied I'm just saying the scenario.
It isn't hung up on anything, I think that there is too much spring? I took it off and gave the cable more room to move, but it gives me 2 options.
I leave it more than closed, so the pedal can move from more than closed to WOT.
Or I have it so that it can be fully closed, but at full throttle does not achieve WOT.
I can't really explain it better than that, but using fractions I have the option to have either: 1/20 to WOT, or 0 to 7/8 throttle.
I hope that makes sense heh.
I know it shouldn't ever be a little open with no throttle being applied I'm just saying the scenario.
Check things as Pablon2 mentioned..... now you need to understand how the electronic version of the throttle system works.
1. Turn the key on the computer takes a voltage reading of the TPS (throttle position sensor) and for that run that is the base voltage it will use for everything else. Typically this will be around .95 volts. A little less is fine, but much above that you will need to tweak it down. Mechanically, the throttle blade may be just cracked open and no more at idle. During this time, the IAC is controlling the amount of air going into the motor, NOT the throttle blade.
2. Everything else for the throttle being considered at part throttle and WOT is based on reference voltages, which is the voltage setting in the computer plus the idle voltage obtained from 1 to give you the state your looking for.
3. Generally the computer will have a max voltage setting for the car, which I think is around 4.5 Volts total, and may not be the actually fully opened position mechanically... rarely is.
So technically you could still be getting full throttle range. Also if you do tighten up the cable if it is that loose, then don't tighten it right up either.
1. Turn the key on the computer takes a voltage reading of the TPS (throttle position sensor) and for that run that is the base voltage it will use for everything else. Typically this will be around .95 volts. A little less is fine, but much above that you will need to tweak it down. Mechanically, the throttle blade may be just cracked open and no more at idle. During this time, the IAC is controlling the amount of air going into the motor, NOT the throttle blade.
2. Everything else for the throttle being considered at part throttle and WOT is based on reference voltages, which is the voltage setting in the computer plus the idle voltage obtained from 1 to give you the state your looking for.
3. Generally the computer will have a max voltage setting for the car, which I think is around 4.5 Volts total, and may not be the actually fully opened position mechanically... rarely is.
So technically you could still be getting full throttle range. Also if you do tighten up the cable if it is that loose, then don't tighten it right up either.