need some instructions

89tird

Registered User
my blower is leaking oil from behind the pulley , i bought a snout seal from ebay but how do l replace it??
 
It can be replaced on the car if you do not want to remove the blower. You have to take the pulley off first. Use a 3 arm gear puller with an impact and it will pop off undamaged.

You then need to remove the old seal. First remove the clip. Then make a couple of holes into the old seal across from each other with a sharp awl. Now slowly screw in some sheet metal screws into the holes in a few threads. Now all you have to do is pry up on those screw with a couple of mini pry bars or screw drivers and the seal will slowly come out.

Clean any crap from around the seal area and carefully install the new seal. Don't forget to lubricate the lip before installing it.
 
You need to remove the nut first. You still have to use the puller afterwards though.
 
ok thanks for clearing that up , do you know what is the torque on that nut afterwards?
 
ok thanks for clearing that up , do you know what is the torque on that nut afterwards?

just put the belt on the pulley and hold it while u tighten the nut up. it'll be fine.

and also add blower oil as needed. i make sure it covers the bottom of the plug.

hows the car running btw ?
 
:Dthanks ,the car is not running yet lve been working 16 hrs a day these last two weeks and haven't had a chance to put it all togheter , last thing i did was torque the intake manifold , need to install the exhaust manifolds, rocker covers acc brackets and the sc, im waiting on the ic teflon seals.
 
What teflon seals did you get? Why did you have the motor apart? Head gaskets?
 
Hope you got head studs and maybe some MLS gaskets. They are a pain if you have to do them over again.
 
yep arp's with regular gaskets torqued to 85 ft lbs with 30 wt oil , hope they last longer than a week, maybe a few years. ;)
 
They should be able to considerably outlast the stock bolts and gaskets under normal conditions. The studs are not susceptible to cold and hot cycles like the factory bolts.
 
good to know , im almost done only thing i got left to do is, connect the ic , fan, cats and o2's and fix the threads of one of the bolt holes on the sc top.. i wanna get her done by this week ... my friend just bought a 5sp 2004 subaru wrx non sti and is talking smack !! , lol i know he probably will beat me badly but he cant drive stick so good. so we'll see
 
Hi All
I used a 3 arm gear puller, and damaged the pulley some.
It was a bit sluggish, so I did bend it some on the edge where
the arms of the puller was placed. Just be careful :)
 
I raced a newer one this summer in my brothers car on the highway coming back to the city. Highway speeds he couldn't touch me but at the first lights in, he got the jump. He said he had a larger turbo and some other work done.
 
93 SC. At the time, the car had ceramic Mustang headers and Flowmaster Force II, a 10 % OD, underdrives, MP top hat, Superchip, Walbro 255 HP pump, and an aluminum driveshaft.
 
No actually the Flowmaster setup is not bad. Have it an a worked N/A car as well. At idle, the exhaust note is quite throaty. At speed it sounds pretty decent too. Obviously will not be like a V8. We deleted the cats when we did the exhaust as well on both cars.

For my own car, I picked up a brand new set of long tube Mustang Headers for $150. I will modify them for the T-Bird and have them ceramic coated. I also decided to try a dual in dual out Magnaflow resonator on my car instead. I got it cheap and some of the guys on the board felt it could outflow the Flowmaster piece. I already have a late model Mark 8 tank to do the straighter exhaust path as well.

What mods do you have done right now?
 
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