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View Full Version : Hydraulic Clutches are a Blast!



bbird94
12-29-2007, 08:34 PM
Hey guys,

I came home from college and my dad had started putting some hours into my T-Bird while I was away at school, so since I have been home we have been doing some power wrenching out in the frozen garage. But come to find out that he unscrewed the bleeder on the drivers side of the tranny case for the clutch and all the fluid has drained and now the whole hydraulic clutch assembly is totally dry.

So my question is, since the Haynes manual doesn't list anything, is that is there any tricks to get fluid into that assembly so that it seems that we are actually bleeding something, right now the pedal goes all the way to the floor like the master cylinder rod isn't even attached to the pedal, but it actually is.

Tony mentioned that I should pull of the master cylinder to the slave cylinder line down by the tranny, to try and help some movement, we did it and really nothing happened, and now I am all confused!!

So as we sit we have a full master cylinder resoirvor full of DOT 3 fluid and none of it is dropping in level with a pedal that has no modulation what so ever!! Any help is much appreciated and thanks for your time guys!!

See Ya,
Brandon

BKB
12-29-2007, 08:45 PM
I just let it sit over night. Seems it takes time for the fluid to trikkle down into the slave cylinder. My S-10 was the same way, let it sit over night and all full pedal in the morning.

scbird1
12-29-2007, 08:59 PM
Bleed it like you would brakes. Open the bleeder and depress the pedal then close the bleeder and repeat untill you firms up. Take a lot of times after full fluid loss.

Mike8675309
12-29-2007, 09:23 PM
Since you let it all drip out, I would fill the reservoir, and maybe even duct tape a funnel on there that will add capacity.

Then let the fluid sit there with the bleeder open. Then pump the pedal a few times, and let it sit until fluid starts dribbling out the bleeder. keep the reservoir full until the fluid comes out the bleeder in a nice stream, and then close the bleeder. Now you can bleed it proper, just like brakes, crack the press the pedal down, close the fitting, let the pedal rise. Open the fitting, push the pedal down.

Put a clear tube on the fitting and watch it for bubbles if you can. Otherwise use a clean container and check it for bubbles. Keep going until no bubbles come out. The capacity is low on the master cylinder, so it can take a long time to run enough fluid through to clear out all the bubbles.

frdlvr30
12-29-2007, 09:35 PM
Let it gravity bleed first...then bleed it like regular brakes. The master cylinder trick off the firewall doesnt always work. You could also try a air bleeder to get you started. They are faster than gravity