head stud questions

beltz

Registered User
I blew a head gasket and i came across a kit offered by scp which includes everything even a stud kit to replace it. But i dont know if theirs enough clearance to put the heads on with a stud kit, its a 90 xr7. the brake system may get in the way and i dont want to remove the engine. anyone used the arp head studs before?

thank you for the help.
 
Option # 1. Prepare the threaded holes in the block as you would normally and place the head gasket on the block.

Put the nuts on the end of the studs and insert them into the head as you would a bolt. If they are ARP studs, there is a hex socket in the end of the stud you can use to run the stud into the block. If need be, remove the nut until you have the stud inserted as far as needed then torque to spec.
 
Before you insert any ARP studs, get the correct size bottom tap and tap all the holes....

It makes installation a breeze....:D
 
no problem

You can intall the clearence questioned studs after the head is in place but before the rest are torqued.
or pull the mastercyl. rather than the engine.
I miss my cougar.
What part of Wa. are you located?
 
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I blew a head gasket and i came across a kit offered by scp which includes everything even a stud kit to replace it. But i dont know if theirs enough clearance to put the heads on with a stud kit, its a 90 xr7. the brake system may get in the way and i dont want to remove the engine. anyone used the arp head studs before?

thank you for the help.

I just will re-enforce. You really want to get a proper sized thread chaser tool (not a thread tap, a chaser) and clean up the threads in the block prior to inserting new bolts, or studs. If you don't clean the threads, and clean out the bolt holes, the studs, or new bolts will bottom out against the gunk in the thread holes. For the studs, that means they won't sit low enough for clearance on the exhaust manifolds. For bolts, that means low clamping force when you stop at the specified torque values.

And yes, just insert the studs that cause you issues with installation (for clearance sake) after the head is in. Studs go in finger tight, put moly lube on the top stud threads, and washer. Install the supplied steel washers and 12 or 6 point nuts. Torque to the recommended spec in the recommended order.
 
get the ARP's for the 2.8 chevy motor, they fit perfect...no issues- -
part # 233-4003 from Summit $83.88 + shipping
just for the sake of saying it - the bolts and or studs, are Metric - - on these cars
 
All of this work will be much easier if you remove the windshield wiper and cowl assembly.
 
get the ARP's for the 2.8 chevy motor, they fit perfect...no issues- -
part # 233-4003 from Summit $83.88 + shipping
just for the sake of saying it - the bolts and or studs, are Metric - - on these cars

I got my head studs from Supercoupe Performance and had absolutely no problems with them on either of my engines. Alot of people on here have said they have had clearance issues with the studs and manifolds or headers, I have had none. I feel they work fine so check them out, there might be other things that you see that you might want to get.

www.supercoupeperformance.com

Also check out spinning wheels sc they may have things you are looking for as well.

www.spinningwheels-sc.com

These are the only two places that really support us with aftermarket perfomance products, so I would look at them before you go anywhere else.
 
A few years ago, ARP had incorrect length bolts in the SC kit which caused a problem. Old stock at some machine shops may lead to that being substituted if they use the SC specific application.

The SC studs and the 2.8 Chevy stud kits are exactly the same. The Chevy application always shows up cheaper. Who knows why.

You will have issues with the studs if you have gunk in the head bolt holes. You want the studs to bottom out in the head, finger tight. If you don't bottom out in the head, clearance can be an issue.
 
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