Suspension Rebuild :Advice Needed:

FuriousFord

Registered User
Well, I have done countless hours of research, just on parts for a complete rebuild of the suspension on our cars. There are so many choices I feel I could drown in my own frustrations. Nonetheless, I have finally come to a conclusion on a majority of the parts I am getting. If you guys wouldn't mind, let me know what I am missing and what may not be neccessary.

I've got a bunch of questions, so please be patient with me. It's my first time tackleing a project like this.

The List: (This is what I AM getting)
- Tokico Illumina III Series Shocks and Springs Kit (1.25'' drop)
- New Upper C-arms w/ ball joints and bushings
- New Lower C-arms w/ ball joints and bushings, exc. strut rod bushing
- New Outer Tie-rod ends
- Poly Sway Bar bushing set
- Strut Rod bushings (to frame)
- Strut Rod bushings (to C-arm)
- Front Sway Bar Endlinks

I know I also need shorter rear sway bar endlinks, but can I get them any where else, other than Bill at SCP? Is there any way to shorten them by hand without jeopardizing functionality and durability? Specs?

All of the bushing in the REAR look very good, they don't even show signs of cracking. So, I might just hit them with a nice dose of grease to freshin' them up a bit. The DIFF. COVER shows signs of leaking, should I take it off and reseal it? (98,500mi.) Do I need to replace the toe-compensators?

*IMPORTANT* Are there any special tools I NEED to complete the project. (please, only tools I NEED, not ones that just make the job easier:D)
*IMPORTANT* Does anyone happen to have pictures of any suspension work they completed, in progression?

I think that's it for now! I REALLY appriciate your patients and time!

David
 
I suggest new spring isolators for the rear springs. Also not so sure I would be going poly on the sway bar bushings but your choice.

Might want to check your diff bushing closely. Toe link compensators not really all that easy to check without removing but haven't heard of many folks having to replace them. Shorter end links for sway bar only needed for the rear. Have never heard of anyone using them on the front as well.

With the lowering the car expect uneven tire wear on the inner edge of the front tires.
 
Actually, I prefer the Ford sway bar links. But when you're dropping the shorter rear end links are preferred. Not sure what year you have but poly sway bar bushings for the stock bars aren't that easy. For example, on a '94 the front sway bar is 1.10" or 28 mm. Energy have some that fit the bar and bolts but are the wrong width and require custom 1/4" spacers. Then, all the accessories (p/s pump, ic tubes, jackshaft ...) have to be taken off or the k-member dropped. Might as well replace the bars with 1-1/4 Addcos.

Easiest and safest way to do the front coil-overs is to take the in to a wall press.

There has been some discussion whether lllumina shocks are the best option with progressive rate springs as well as their durabilty. They seem a bit soft on the bigger dips for my taste. Not enough rebound control?

Haven't tackled the arms and tie-rods yet.
 
What year is your car, because if its an '89-'91 then I'd consider trying to get the newer style spindles on the car so you would have options for brake upgrades.

You will need a 30mm wrench to get the nuts off the strut rods.

When you are assembling everything do not torque to spec until you have loaded the suspension up to its normal sitting position (like it was sitting on its wheels), or you will find you will have an interesting ride.
 
Listen to what Duffy said about the Poly bushings. He knows!

When I installed a larger Addco rear sway bar, it came with poly bushings - no matter how much I greased them they squeaked like a whiney girlfriend. My solution was to purchase a set of rubber front sway bar bushings and reshape the rear bracket to fit. Works like a charm. Realize that if you buy control arms with bushings in them, they're rubber - not poly. And, I don't think poly bushings are made for the strut rods.

For the rear end links, I used a kit from Auto Zone that had the correct length grade 8 bolts and support tube. I'm sure you can get an adjustable end link kit or use a kit and if you have to shorten them, just cut the bolts and tubes evenly so you get the level height you need.

As long as you have your front apart, you should also replace the steering rack bushings. In the rear, check the IRS bushings too. I take it you've already replaced the motor and tranny mounts. Another thing to look at is the rubber that holds your exhaust system up. The donuts tend to dry out and crack over time.

Do a search - there are a few threads with full lists of bushing replacements with part numbers.

Good luck. I have to do this myself one day. It's not a fun job, but from what I've read, the benefits are worth it.

Mark
'95 SC 5spd
 
I needed a jaw-type ball joint separator to get my front sway bar endlinks out. I also needed a beefy Pitman arm puller to get my lower balljoints out of the spindle. It can be pretty rough. I was unable to get the old strut rod bushing sleeves out, but I think a big chisel and a BFH should have done the job. You will probably need a sledgehammer of some sort. You need a 36mm socket to remove the hub retaining nuts. A set of ratcheting wrenches is a big help for UCAs (18mm specifically).

Definitely, your toolbox will expand as you go through this.
 
Duffy: I heard that useing the Poly. Bushing for the swaybars was a bad idea, but I can't find the rubber stockers anywhere. The autoparts store I go to, Advance Auto, doesn't offer any rubber bushing for the sway bars, but they do for everything else.

The tires shouldn't wear incorrectly, as long as I get an allignment, right? I looked at most of the bushings in the back and they look really good, so I might just hit them with some good grease. Nonetheless, I recheck the ones you had mentioned.

Stupid Canuck: Hopefully I can save enough money to buy new Addco Bars for the front and rear, but how is replacing the entire bar easier than putting new bushings on? I was gonna go with the Tokicos, because they retain the ability to use the switch for the electronic suspension. What other Shocks and Springs would you recommend? I'm also not familiar with a wall press?

fturner: I have a '93, so no need to up grade the spindles. To simulate ride height, could I have the car on jackstands and use a jack to raise the assembly (C-arms, Spindles, etc.) then torque everything down? How would you do it?

MSG419: Yeah, I do realize that the C-arms are going to come with Rubber bushing, and I am OK with that. I don't really feel like spending the extra money on all the poly. ones. Bills kit is $255! A buddy of mine had a '67 Nova SS Conv. and he order an entire kit (EVERYTHING) for less than $100!

I'll have to check if Advance Auto has an adjustable kit, that's seems like a good idea. Thanks for the heads-up about the bushing for the exhaust hangers, I didn't even think of that. The Steering Rack bushing look pretty good, so I don't think I need to replace them.

S Mazza: I guess my toolbox will be expanding, like you said:eek:. How was it getting everything back together for you? Did you have to press the balljoints into the spindles, or did they just bolt right up?

Tom B I looked at that set from Ebay a few weeks ago. I emailed the guy and asked him where the parts were manufactured. He stated that they were made in China, so I am a little reluctant to order them because I am worried about their performance ability. What do you think?

To All: What are your thoughts about the Tokico Illumina Series Shocks and Springs for our cars? What other Kits would you recommend? Prices? Does ANYONE have pictures from the tear-down of thier suspension?

Thanks again everyone,
David

'93 SC Black on Black Leather Auto
-newly rebuilt motor (3,500mi) 98,500mi total
-Fenderwell CAI
-Bored .020 over
 
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The tires will wear regardless if you get an alignment or not due to dropping the car and changing the geometry of the front end. I buy Ford Bushings. There are still a few around the country which your dealer may be able to locate for you or try the obsolete Ford Parts Dealers such as Green Parts Company. Also make sure you get the TRW 10711 and 10712 Front Lower Control Arms. They are the only ones I know that have the correct inner pivot bushings. Be leary of appling grease to rubber bushings. Petroleum and rubber don't mix well and the bushings you have now that look pretty good might not look so hot in while after you apply grease to them. Several of the rear bushings are permanently lubricated internally anyway.

Interesting you are dropping your car and I am looking to go back towards a more stock ride height with OEM style springs (Only a 0.5" drop in the front, stock ride height in the rear hoping to eliminate tire wear issues). I have Tokico springs on the car now that I will be selling once I get my new springs and shocks (Tokico Illumia II's) installed.

The ball joints will bolt back together with the spindle and there is no need to press them together, You will likely need to take the front coil over shocks to a shop with a wall press unit used for MacPherson Struts to replace the front springs. Be aware the installation of the front upper shock mount (bracket) is critical in relation to the shock itself. (It has to be in the proper orientation with respect to the shock itself) or you won't be able to reinstall the shock and spring back into the car.

If you want to retain the ARC OEM shocks (if you can find them) and Tokico shocks are your only options (both are made by Tokico by the way)

Replacement of the front sway bar is not an easy job. Not preferrable but the shop that replaced my bushings split them in the rear to slip back over the bar without removing the bar to slide the new bushings into place as is the method proscribed in the Ford Shop Manual. If you choose this method make sure you put the split towards the rear of the bar and do NOT split the bushing entirely....just the rear part of it or you have destroyed the bushing itself. Again the preferred method is to remove the bar and slip the new bushing over it. But if you are going to Addco bar you will have to ream the OEM bushing anyway to make it fit the larger diameter of the Addco bar. I would suggest you try and look at the original bushing and compare it to the original bar diameter so you have some idea of what the OEM clearance was so you have an idea of how much to ream the bushing to make it fit.
 
When I did it, I jacked the car up and then lowered it down onto jack stands that where at the ends of the lower controls arms and in a position that wouldn't interfere with torqueing everything up. Because of the sway bars, you will need to load up both sides at the same time.
 
S Mazza: I guess my toolbox will be expanding, like you said:eek:. How was it getting everything back together for you? Did you have to press the balljoints into the spindles, or did they just bolt right up?

As Duffy said, they go back together very easily. Getting them apart is the hard part. Two recommendations that can save you a world of aggravation:

1.) Before you remove the nut from a balljoint stud, etc., clean the exposed threads as well as you can, using a wire brush, pick, or thread repair file. Also put some penetrating lubricant on there. This will help a lot.

2.) When it is time to separate the ball joint from the spindle, I know that you want to leave the nut engaged so that the joint does not separate violently. BUT, you really ought to remove the nut entirely from the stud FIRST, then reinstall it for safety. The reason is that, if you wait until later to remove the nut, the bond between the stud and spindle will be broken, and the stud will simply spin in the balljoint!!! Not fun at all!

I don't have any pics from my front end rebuild, but you really shouldn't need any. The only part that can be confusing is getting the strut rod apart and back together in the proper order. Good luck!
 
As long as you have your front apart, you should also replace the steering rack bushings.
Not sure if I totally agree with that. When I rebuilt the entire front suspension on my car, my biggest problem was getting the new rack bushings installed. The driver's side never did go in all the way and the only way it would have is if I dropped the rack. Since my rack wasn't leaking, I didn't want to take the chance. Plus, I can't believe the power steering rack bushings see the wear that the other bushings do.

I see you don't plan on replacing the power steering rack bushings anyway, but I had already typed my reply before I noticed.
 
I bought my upper and lower control arms from Rock Auto and they are MOOG brand. If you look around on the forums you can find a discount code for rock auto. I bought strut rod bushings(frame side and control arm side) from the ford dealership. If you look at my posts i think i listed part numbers somewhere. If you get the strut rod bushings for the frame side make sure you purchase the kit from ford that comes with the washers and ferels because you wont be able to reuse yours(I found this out the hard way). I also bought swaybar endlinks from the ford dealership. And then I bought MOOG brand tie rod ends from advance auto.
 
2.) When it is time to separate the ball joint from the spindle, I know that you want to leave the nut engaged so that the joint does not separate violently.
Also, the tool to use may also be known as a pitman arm puller. It will save you a lot of bruised thumbnails and/or dents in the fender from using a pickle fork.. however.. the pickle fork + BFH is probably more fun :D
 
I actually had to use both the pitman arm puller and the pickle fork / BFH on my driver's side ball joint, while using a jack under the spindle. I still couldn't get it out until I accidentally tipped the jack over, causing the car to drop an inch back onto the jackstands, nearly scaring the poo out of me. I jumped back in shock and surprise, just staring at the thing, and a half-second later "SPROING!!!!!!" I heard the spindle let go of the ball joint stud.

Needless to say, that is not the preferred method.

I think that a good pitman arm puller will do the job for almost everyone. I bought the heavy duty one from NAPA because I didn't trust the regular duty one to do the job. I'm glad I did buy the heavy duty one because I had a LOT of torque on that tool.

Oh yeah, one other thing: If you are replacing outer tie rods, you might want to replace the inners too. You don't want to pay for two alignments. It is not too hard to do the inners. You need both sides up on jackstands so you can turn the rack to each side, and you must remove some rivets and replace with roll pins, and that is all that is tricky about it.
 
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Update: I just purchased a front suspension kit, from MAC auto parts.
It includes: 2-Upper C-arms, 2-Lower C-arms, Inners and Outers. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Thunderbird-Cougar-Suspension-Kit-Tie-Rods-Control-Arm_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33593QQihZ009QQitemZ190189134717QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Check it out and let me know what you guys think. I saved $200 purchasing this, instead of buying each part from my local auto parts store!

I was also wondering what hardware I will need to get. I know that I need NEW pinch bolts for the spindle-to-upper c-arm, but what other stuff will I need and what can I reuse?

Does anyone live near Lancaster, Pa? And would you like to lend me a hand?:D I want to get this all done in 2 days. Is it possible to meet my goal, if I do it myself?

I'd really like to thank ALL you guys for your help and patients!! THANK YOU

Dave
 
You should be able to replace all of the front suspension stuff in a day, but it depends on the breaks. Each bolt and nut could come out easily, or it could be a formidable opponent.

By the way, since you are buying new shocks and springs, did you order new shock mounts? It's the rubber pad that sits on top of each shock and has 3 stud that protrude up through the wheel well so you can fasten the unit to the car. My point is that, since you will almost certainly need to take the shocks and springs to a mechanic to get them assembled, you might as well get those new and then you will have complete units when you start, rather than take the old units off and then to the mechanic. Also, you can get those in Monroe brand if you can't find Ford parts. They say they are for non-SC only, but they work. Of course, you will need new shock mount hardware if you go that route, as the old hardware will be on the old shocks!!!

As far as fasteners go, I think you can reuse a good number of them. You can get new shock bolts and LCA-to-frame bolts (AKA "Camber Adjusting Kit") from Moog. They are a little pricey. The LCAs and tie rods should come with the nuts at the spindle end. The end links should come with new nuts too. The UCA-to-body bolts, you will probably have to reuse. I reused my pinch bolts too, but that's at your own risk.

Also, when you do take the front shocks and springs to the mechanic to get assembled, you might want to have the car there for him to look at. It's easy to get confused about the orientation of the shock mounts.
 
As mentioned the assembly of the front shock assembly is critical. Specifically the orientation of the upper shock mount in relationship to the lower shock bracket (where it connects to the lower control arm). You can take the originally installed unit and lay a straight edge along the spring and mark the upper shock mount so you can keep the relationship correct. Pick a "spot" on the shock itself that is easily transferred over to the new one. If you don't get it assembled right it can't be reinstalled in the car since there are only three studs in the upper shock mount that have to fit only a single way into the body structure.
 
This is my daily driver, so I need to complete it in, at the most, two days. Do you think I should dive into rebuilding the suspension, without knowing a darn thing about it?

Duffy:You said that I could complete the front in a day.(Tearing it apart and back together) It should only take me a couple of hours to do the rear, right? Since I am only replacing the shocks and springs.

SMazza: I am assuming that I need to take the struts and springs to a mechanic, because he will need to use special tools to get it together, correct? Is there any way I might be able to put it together, just so I can save myself sometime and money?

Thanks again,
David
 
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