Ball Honing

THE BIRDMAN

Registered User
I've got a 91 SC with 85k on it and right now I got the motor tore down and I'm putting fresh bearings in it(just preventitive there wasn't any issues)Does anyone see a problem with me just using a ball hone on the cylinders walls and installing some total seal gapless rings(or should I go with some other type)?The cylinders still look good and have decent cross hatching.The car has been well taken care of it's whole life with proper oils changes and servicing.So what do you guys think.



Jay
 
I've got a 91 SC with 85k on it and right now I got the motor tore down and I'm putting fresh bearings in it(just preventitive there wasn't any issues)Does anyone see a problem with me just using a ball hone on the cylinders walls and installing some total seal gapless rings(or should I go with some other type)?The cylinders still look good and have decent cross hatching.The car has been well taken care of it's whole life with proper oils changes and servicing.So what do you guys think.



Jay

I can't see why not. Just make sure the pickup tube is nice and clean, you can find all sorts of evidence there. I might have the crank checked and polished out, other then that sounds pretty straight forward.
 
Technique

You may already be familiar, but when honing use lots of oil and try to move in and out of the cylinder at a slow enough turning speed to imitate the current cross hatch. As much as possible
 
Is there a ridge at all? Any measurements on the cylinder bore's ? If not, im sure you can get away with a ball hone on an engine you are just doing preventative maintenance to that already has low mileage. The ball hone is used to break away the glaze on the cylinder walls.

- Dan
 
Whats a ball hone? The only thing I know of that looks like it has balls is a DINGLEBERRY hone.:D

Yeah Jay just hit it light and throw some new rings on it too. Prolly just put some regular rings in it... mine work just fine.
 
Whats a ball hone? The only thing I know of that looks like it has balls is a DINGLEBERRY hone.:D

Yeah Jay just hit it light and throw some new rings on it too. Prolly just put some regular rings in it... mine work just fine.




Yep that's the hone I'm talking about.I called and talked to Kevin the tech guy at total seal I ordered a set of the gapless rings where the 2nd rings are the 2 piece gapless style.They're a little pricey at 2 bills but if I can get a better seal with less blow by and more vacuum like they advertise it's totally worth it.


Jay
 
I did the total seal with a gentle ball hone, durring a rebuild. The did seal well till one of my wristpins broke loose and scored the cylinderwall, let gas get around those rings, thined oil, thinned bearings, thinned out happiness with the sc:(
 
I did the total seal with a gentle ball hone, durring a rebuild. The did seal well till one of my wristpins broke loose and scored the cylinderwall, let gas get around those rings, thined oil, thinned bearings, thinned out happiness with the sc:(




Well it's nice to see that they sealed well.That's all I'm looking for them to do.Did you use there quick seat lube?Cause I it and was wondering if it worked good for you.



Jay
 
Jay,

Open up the pick up while you have the engine apart. It will allow the oil pump to draw in more oil and quicker.

You need to buy or borrow a ring cutter to use Total Seal rings. They do not just install into the motor right from the box
 
Jay,

Open up the pick up while you have the engine apart. It will allow the oil pump to draw in more oil and quicker.

You need to buy or borrow a ring cutter to use Total Seal rings. They do not just install into the motor right from the box



How do you open up the pick up?I've got a ring file top shave the rings down they'll all be file fit to each cylinder.


Jay
 
Jay,

It is easy. First, you take some tin snips and enlarge the pickup opening to about half the total surface. The edge will be jagged in several places afterwards so you need to carefully grind the cuts down with a dremel afterwards. Go slow being careful not to penetrate the screen.

The end result is that the opening is considerably larger to allow a larger volume of oil to be drawn into the pump. Will help prevent possible oil starvation if the draw from the pump exceeds the capability of the factory opening which is fairly small.
 
You need to buy or borrow a ring cutter to use Total Seal rings. They do not just install into the motor right from the box

Flex,

Is this any different than you would do with standard rings? Do you just file the gaps to OEM specs??

Jeramie
 
In most cases you do not need to mess with ordinary rings. If the block is bored for 30 over they are sized to fit etc. Total Seals have their own required settings. The ring is lowered square into the block and the gap is measured via feeler gages. You grind slowly until you obtain the correct gap.
 
Doesn't matter what type of ring you buy you better check the ring gap. Over and over I see the damage done from people assuming the ring gaps correct.
 
Jay,

It is easy. First, you take some tin snips and enlarge the pickup opening to about half the total surface. The edge will be jagged in several places afterwards so you need to carefully grind the cuts down with a dremel afterwards. Go slow being careful not to penetrate the screen.

The end result is that the opening is considerably larger to allow a larger volume of oil to be drawn into the pump. Will help prevent possible oil starvation if the draw from the pump exceeds the capability of the factory opening which is fairly small.




Cool thanks for the info.


Jay
 
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