View Full Version : 5-speed clutch question...

01-10-2008, 12:45 AM
Hi all,
This is probably in the members section, but while I am waiting for my membership to be activated, I thought I would ask...
If the car is out of gear and stopped, I take my foot off the brake and the car stays still.
If I put in the clutch and put it in first or reverse, when I take my foot off the brake the car starts to creep in the direction of the gear it is in. The clutch is ON THE FLOOR. So-o-o, my question is... since the resevoir is full for the hydraulic clutch, is there any type of adjustment to allow the clutch to disengage completely?
I now realize that this is why it is difficult to put the car in gear when completely stopped. Also there is no 'slippage' in the clutch either, in 5th, you can floor the accelerator and the tach just climbs slowly with the speedometer.
Or do I just start saving for a new clutch?
1989 SC 5 speed.

01-10-2008, 01:38 AM
It could be just air in line and the slave needs to be bled. The level could have gotten way down and you sucked a little air in or the slave cylinder could be going bad. If it were me and the clutch has a lot of mile on it, replace the clutch, slave cylinder, throw out bearing, resurface flywheel, master cylinder for the clutch and the pilot bearing in the crankshaft.
Shim the slave the thickness removed from the flywheel. Nothing more frustraiting than having to remove the trans again because of one part not replaced. Been there done that!

01-10-2008, 08:42 AM
The problem is related to insufficient movement of the pressure plate fingers to fully release the clamping force on the clutch disk. This can be due to many things, including:
Clutch disk coming apart
Low fluid level in the clutch master cylinder
Out of spec flywheel clearance
broken spring in the pressure plate
damaged throw out bearing.
Damaged slave cylinder

About the only thing you can check without pulling the transmission is the fluid level.

01-10-2008, 11:56 AM
Shim the slave the thickness removed from the flywheel.

How do you shim the slave cylinder? I've seen shims for the flywheel but not the slave.

01-10-2008, 12:22 PM
I have found that standard sheet metal is about what they remove from the flywheel so by placing the slave on a sheet trace it out and cut it like a gasket, punch holes and your done. you just want to be some where close to what was removed. Too many guys here have done clutch jobs only to remove the trans again because of engagement issues. I would still try to bleed the line first as its a old car and like most of us were on a buget. It might fix it for a little while atlest.

01-11-2008, 09:13 AM
It's supposed to be a nice weekend here in southern IL.... so-o-o, I guess I'll be out in the garage bleeding the clutch!!! (Sounds like a slasher movie, no?)
("Pardon me dear, but I really must go bleed the clutch!!)
Once again thanks for the advice!!

03-10-2008, 09:17 PM
Does the Factory Service Manual mention shimming the slave after machining the flywheel?

Duffy Floyd
03-10-2008, 09:38 PM
Not to my knowledge is it mentioned.

Tom B
03-10-2008, 10:52 PM
while intalling my clutch I let the the trans drop alittle too much befor it was all the way in and bent the disk hub, the symptoms were as described above.. Had to get a new disk. not a cheap mistake.

03-10-2008, 11:00 PM
Guys, you also have to remember that brake fluid loves to soak up water which makes the brake fluid more compressable, and ironically the clutch system uses brake fluid.

For example, in the morning last summer it would take almost 30 seconds for the ABS and brakes lights to go out at first start up in the morning. I changed the brake fluid etc and it went from 30 seconds to about 2 seconds and I don't need anywhere near the brake pedal movement to stop the car.

And no, its not to do with air in the lines as I have noticed this in other cars that I've flushed out the brake fluid.

Just a thoughts....

03-11-2008, 01:35 AM
when I take my foot off the brake the car starts to creep in the direction of the gear it is in.

If bleeding doesn't help...

How often do you add engine oil?

A leaking rear main and/or trans input seal could effectively coat the clutch surface, allowing it to grab/stick.

Have you redone the carpeting or added new floor mats?

Are both of the motor mounts still healthy? Know how to check?