Supercharger Problems (god-awful noise) Anybody have one they could part with ?

91AZ_Johnny

Registered User
Hi all,

I posted recently about my brake issues on my 91, and touched on the supercharger situation too, but thought maybe a separate post was better idea ?

It's basically making an awful clattering noise. I've read a bunch of threads here that others have started, but most of them with useful info are pretty old now. It's my only car and I just can't afford to get something else. A back injury a few years ago wiped me out and I'm still a financial mess because of it. I need to figure out the best and cheapest way to get this fixed, so I don't lose my only transportation to work.

It sounds like it might be the snout bearing(s) from the other threads, but I honestly just don't know. I don't have anywhere to work on the car out of the weather right now, so that makes things even more difficult.

If someone could help clear this up for me, I'd truly be indebted to you. I just can't afford to have the car die on me. I'd be in pretty big trouble if that happened... Somehow, I've got to keep it on the road and I'm not really sure how exactly to go about that.

Thanks guys...

John
 
Hi speedwagen,

I've read, I think, about eight different threads so far about them here.

I'm not exactly sure if they're the same problem, and most threads I found with specifics in them were very old. The noise is not constant in that it is sometimes louder and on rare occasions it kind of 'kicks in and out' depending on how much throttle is applied.

Some days it's not so bad, other days it's very noisy. It doesn't make much sense... I just don't have enough experience with the superchargers on these cars to know.

The coupler *sounds* like it could possibly be the issue, but again, I'm not really sure.

I thought about trying to record the noise but I don't have a digital camera to use, to post anything here.

John
 
Hey man i just bought a new supercharger but my old one wouldnt be available til like april/may. I know it sounds like your in a rush but if for some reason you would need a new one around that time I will have one. Just letting you know because I think I live pretty close to you and it works perfectly.
 
John,

If you just need to keep the car driveable, you can remove the supercharger belts and wire the bypass valve to stay open. Car will run fine without the supercharger...just won't have nearly as much power.

David
 
John,

If you just need to keep the car driveable, you can remove the supercharger belts and wire the bypass valve to stay open. Car will run fine without the supercharger...just won't have nearly as much power.

David

+1 very good idea. Plus taking the belt off will tell you for sure that its in the supercharger and not another front end accessory (alt p/s etc.)
 
its mosy likely the coupler, mine rattles at idle, and with applied throtle goes away, when its cold out its less prominent then when warn out
 
I got one but needs sc oil and also needs to be sealed from the between the caseing free just pay shipping for the super charger
 
John,

If you just need to keep the car driveable, you can remove the supercharger belts and wire the bypass valve to stay open. Car will run fine without the supercharger...just won't have nearly as much power.

David


Is that really possible ? That sounds almost too good to be true !

Sorry for the slow reply, been at work all evening.

Will that throw off the ECM and make the car run lousy, if, say, it expects to see boost above a certain rpm and acceleration ? Does the fuel supply curve get screwed up ?

If I can do that, at least if it DOES get worse suddenly, at least I have SOME option and you have NO idea how much weight that'd take off my shoulders right now. I've been really stressed out over all this. Ever since I got back, it seems, my car's been finding things to break. First belts, then a bad tire belt, just a month or so ago, the heater core took a ~~~~, then the supercharger and brakes start acting up.

It's really been trying and I just don't need the hole it's eating in my gut....

If I can indeed do that, it'd be a HUGE relief right now. Like I said, I've GOT to keep the car on the road somehow, some way, no matter what. It never occurred to me you COULD do that as I always thought the bypass only bled off *some* boost pressure for gas mileage, etc. Didn't know it COMPLETELY bypassed the blower altogether.
 
I got one but needs sc oil and also needs to be sealed from the between the caseing free just pay shipping for the super charger

Wow... Don't know what to say, but thank you. I can't accept it for free though. That wouldn't be right. I wasn't coming here looking for anything like that, just hoping maybe someone had an old one laying around that they could sell off, or maybe trade for mine, if they planned on rebuilding it eventually.

I'd been watching ebay hoping one would pop up and go figure, TWO did, all of the sudden, but from the prices I've seen on past auctions recently, I doubt I'd be able to afford anything there. Everybody wants to make their mustangs speed demons and such. I just want to keep my car going for the immediate future, until I get in a better place financially.

If you'd be willing to take *something* reasonable for it, you sir, have a deal !

I've poked around here on and off, since I bought the car about seven-ish years ago and it always seemed like a good bunch of guys, but this goes FAR beyond anything I could imagine.

Let me know what you need from me to get this in motion, whenever you've got time. I'm in CT now (06098) so I haven't a clue what shipping would cost. Kind of funny too, since I just moved back here FROM Tempe/Phx. :rolleyes: Some timing, eh ? haha

My email's jbittnerjr (at) gmail . com, incidentally. I'll try and check back here in the morning before I leave for work. Thanks again.

John
 
if you can get a sound clip or video, to me it sounds like a coupler, ive been driving mine like tha for 10,000 miles so far
 
Is that really possible ? That sounds almost too good to be true !

Sorry for the slow reply, been at work all evening.

Will that throw off the ECM and make the car run lousy, if, say, it expects to see boost above a certain rpm and acceleration ? Does the fuel supply curve get screwed up ?

If I can do that, at least if it DOES get worse suddenly, at least I have SOME option and you have NO idea how much weight that'd take off my shoulders right now. I've been really stressed out over all this. Ever since I got back, it seems, my car's been finding things to break. First belts, then a bad tire belt, just a month or so ago, the heater core took a ~~~~, then the supercharger and brakes start acting up.

It's really been trying and I just don't need the hole it's eating in my gut....

If I can indeed do that, it'd be a HUGE relief right now. Like I said, I've GOT to keep the car on the road somehow, some way, no matter what. It never occurred to me you COULD do that as I always thought the bypass only bled off *some* boost pressure for gas mileage, etc. Didn't know it COMPLETELY bypassed the blower altogether.

Yes it will work and the motor will run fine. You can also put 87 octane in the tank while your driving it with the supercharger disabled.

David
 
If the knock sensor is bad, can it knock bad enough to sound like a diesel at light load/light throttle?

Nick
 
Yes it will work and the motor will run fine. You can also put 87 octane in the tank while your driving it with the supercharger disabled.

David


Hell, that alone would be a blessing in disguise at this point, with the price of gas up here.

Thanks for the replies so far guys. It's been a HUGE help.

I've been watching ebay on a couple auctions, but I don't think they'll end within my budget, and I'd rather spend what I can *here* among you all who've actually tried to help. If someone has one they wanted to part with, please, let me know.

John
 
If the knock sensor is bad, can it knock bad enough to sound like a diesel at light load/light throttle?

Nick

Nick,

The knock sensor is intended to sense a certian frequency (caused by detonation) and if it does, the computer retards the ignition timing to aviod damaging the motor. A bad sensor won't cause an engine to knock.

David
 
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