Inlet temperature gauge.

ricardoa1

Registered User
I think this club needs to invest some time getting a cheap Inlet temperature gauge. I myself need one now that I want to monitor what my blower will be doing next year.

This gauge will also answer alot of repeated questions about what blower upgrade to buy for my car. Alot of MPX vs MP this vs AR will be answered with this gauge. If you see temperatures rising and boost falling in the upper RPMs its time to upgrade the blower. If you are over boosting and creating too much heat you have too much of a blower for what the engine is caplable of, back off the overdrive. If you have great inlet temps but boost is falling in the upper RPMS, OD more. If you can keep boost up and temps down you got the right blower OD combo. IC choice will also play a role. Singe vs Dual vs MP......

I have seen threads of home made Inlet temp gauges and the Autometer version wich is way overpriced.

But I think for us SC owners this is a better gauge to have then a oil pressure gouge or even a water temperature gauge.
 
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Here is a cool not too expensive unit.

Nordskog makes it.

nrd-m9009-gb_w.jpg


Brand: Nordskog
Product Line: Nordskog Street Series Digital Gauges
Part Type: Gauges, Digital
Gauge Style: Nordskog Street Series
Gauge Type: Air temperature
Gauge Range: 0-200 degrees F
Shape: Round
Gauge Diameter (in): 2 1/16 in.
Gauge Diameter (mm): 52.00mm
Sweep: Digital numeric
Sending Unit: Electrical
Gauge Face Color: Black
Gauge Number Color: Green
Bezel Color: Black
OEM Replacement: No
Sending Unit Included: Yes
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: Includes recall function.
Gauge Series: Digital

Gauge, Street Series, Digital, Air Temperature, Black Face, 0-200 Degrees F, 2 1/16 in. Diameter, Electrical

Futuristic looking gauges.
Advanced microprocessor technology makes these high-tech gauges the most accurate and easy-to-read digital gauges in the market today. All Nordskog Street series gauges are 2 1/16 in. in diameter. Features include a recall button for high and low pressure, high temperature, or high voltage. These gauges are available in red, blue, green, and amber.

$65.88
 
What about temps after the IC and before the intake? Wouldn't that be the best spot to measure the true temp of the air entering the motor? What is the range for the air temp in that area?
 
I use my hand.....its free:eek: Id actually be afraid to get the gauge because Id really see just how much I need a better IC and have no money lol
 
Whats going into the engine is the key element since thats whats going into the engine. I think they advertise a range of 0-250 but on the description they say 200 so maybe it goes to 250.

I think manifold temperatures that are 500+deg you have major issues.

MPX with 25% OD double IC seems to get around 190F.



The Factory sensors work up to 250F

I forget at what point the car starts to pull timing.
 
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Whats going into the engine is the key element since thats whats going into the engine. I think they advertise a range of 0-250 but on the description they say 200 so maybe it goes to 250.

I think manifold temperatures that are 500+deg you have major issues.

MPX with 25% OD double IC seems to get around 190F.



The Factory sensors work up to 250F

I forget at what point the car starts to pull timing.

I think 220?
 
Temp Unit

I am currently looking into getting units at a bulk price.

They are a probe style unit that uses a lcd temp display and reads up to 150 deg celsius with + or - 1 deg accuracy that updates every second.The unit also has temperature alarms for both high and low that can be set by you and min and max temp memory as well.I will contact them if we can get a group buy going on them as the prices are cheaper as you buy in quantities.If you buy 6 units they are about $5 cheaper than the $40 price.

If there was enough interest then i would contact them with a number of units wanted,i used one for about 2 years and it worked great for temps.
 
cant we just tap into the current air temp sensor in the return plenum ?

or does that just send a voltage value back to the EEC based on the air temps ?
 
I am currently looking into getting units at a bulk price.

They are a probe style unit that uses a lcd temp display and reads up to 150 deg celsius with + or - 1 deg accuracy that updates every second.The unit also has temperature alarms for both high and low that can be set by you and min and max temp memory as well.I will contact them if we can get a group buy going on them as the prices are cheaper as you buy in quantities.If you buy 6 units they are about $5 cheaper than the $40 price.

If there was enough interest then i would contact them with a number of units wanted,i used one for about 2 years and it worked great for temps.

I dont speak Metric.....:(
Any standard versions?


The Stock one could be used but its a reverse Voltage so the lower the voltage the higher the Temp. You will also need a conversion table. to figure out what the number is. Kinda hard unless you are doing it once only.
 
cant we just tap into the current air temp sensor in the return plenum ?

or does that just send a voltage value back to the EEC based on the air temps ?

Sending units have different resistance values to output signal to a unit, in ohms. The gauge depends on that resistance, which comes from the sending unit, so no, you can't tap into it without finding the range of ohms that the sending unit uses.

An EEC tuner, or any other data logging software, will tell you the temperatures given from the factory ACT sensor.

Rico, F=1.8C + 32. If excessive intake temperatures occur, then it shouldn't be thought as a matter of backing off, but more towards upgrading. I am 20* max, above ambient, with 25% OD.

Intake temperatures decline as duration of heat exchanging increases, which follows surface area and volume of an intercooler. There isn't any testing needed to know if a FMIC is more efficient adiabatically than a SIC or a DIC.
 
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Timing starts to get pulled at 120F and will have a full 8 degrees by the time you hit 180.

Here's a transfer curve for the ACT sensor and the ECT sensor but its not linear. You can measure the voltage as that is what gets measured by the EEC itself, not the resistance. Resistance is generated inside the sensor by the heat it is exposed to, which will affect the returning voltage that the EEC measures.

Volt Result F
0.12 302
0.2 267
0.3 250
0.36 230
0.47 212
0.61 194
0.8 176
1.04 158
1.35 140
1.72 122
2.16 104
2.62 86
3.06 68
3.7 50
3.97 32
4.42 14
4.87 -4
4.89 -22
4.91 -40
 
Rico, F=1.8C + 32. If excessive intake temperatures occur, then it shouldn't be thought as a matter of backing off, but more towards upgrading. I am 20* max, above ambient, with 25% OD.


I can convert. :p But that is not practical for me.

As for excessive intake temps. If the engine cannot take in the air, too much boost, with excessive heat triggering the ECC to pull tons of timing, IE stock engine with tons of OD. I think its best to back off.
 
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I thought you were interested in comparing outlet temps on various blowers.

If you are interested in reading temps after the intercooler you will learn very little about the blower efficiency and more about the IC efficiency.
 
Metric

Sorry,it can be set for either celsius or farenheight.The unit is very compact and runs on a 1.5 volt battery,watch battery.
 
I have a temp gauge on mine. I tap off of the ACT signal and run it in to the input of an LM324 amplifier chip wired for unity gain, the voltage out = the voltage in. I then run this to an analog meter thru a potentiometer and calibrated it with a digital voltmeter and the voltage vs. temp chart of the ACT that I found on the fordfuelinjection.com website. Fortunately, I work in electronics and have all of the necessary equipment at work. I've made one using colored LEDs but I like the analog meter better. It's got better resolution and works pretty good. When I turn on the Boost Cooler the intake temp drops dramatically on the meter. I've not seen the temp over about 200 degrees since I've been using it but the ACT is quite a ways from the blower with a double IC in between. It would be fairly easy to mount another thermistor at the blower top to monitor the temp there and switch between the 2 temps on the meter. If I'm monitoring the ACT do I really need to know the blower output temp?
 
Well I am more concerned about the ACT temps. Making sure I stay below or at least near the said 120F or else I am going to back of the OD.

There are not many IC that people are going to run on an SC most run one of the three that I mentioned. Few run FMIC that should work similar to a MP FMIC. I dont think I will upgrade my IC any more, and most will stick with a Double stocker. If we only have three IC most people run, for comparison purposes if two people run the same IC, we will see what the blower is doing if overdriven X amount vs Y amount.


Ill leave the extensive blower data testing for you Dave. ;)


Id like to hear more about this from 92strokedbird,
 
I thought you were interested in comparing outlet temps on various blowers.

If you are interested in reading temps after the intercooler you will learn very little about the blower efficiency and more about the IC efficiency.

Dont you want to know about that?
 
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