Even more problems - Head Gasket(s) blew the other day. A few questions for you all.

91AZ_Johnny

Registered User
As if the supercharger AND brake issues weren't bad enough.... :(

Head gasket(s) blew the other day on the way to work. Can't catch a break lately.



Questions for you guys. I have the Felpro gasket kit in hand now, but it seems to only include 6 injector O-Rings. Any idea why ? You obviously need 2 on each injector. Am I missing something ? Also, it looks like the last hack bastard to work on the engine when it was rebuilt (prior owner) messed up an injector and the little plastic 'top hat' looking piece is busted. Is this absolutely essential ? I just can't afford to buy new injectors. This is already going to clean me out... I'm not sure what to do there. Suggestions ?

Other question. It looks like when it blew, it took out my radiator, but I'm not 100 % sure yet. There's antifreeze all over the place, but a good bit spewed all over when I tried to start the car at work, when it was time to go home. I had the radiator cap off and I've never seen antifreeze shoot up in the air about a foot and a half, when cranking the motor, so I assume the gaskets are pretty well blown out and the cylinder pressure is shooting the antifreeze out... This make sense ?

Incidentally, if anyone knows where I can get a radiator cheaper than Autozone and have it shipped to my house, PLEASE let me know... I'll even take a used one at this point. I've GOT to get the car back on the road again. I don't even know if I'll still have a job, by the time this gets done. My back is messed up and I can't put in as many hours under the hood, outside in the cold like I could when I was younger. Frankly, it's killing me.

I see on autozone's website that the radiator appears to be supercoupe specific. so I'm assuming there's not really any other T-Birds (or ANY car) I could use one off of, correct ? Are they at least the same within the SC years, or do I need one from say, an '89-'92 only ? I'm kind of clueless here. Ohh, also, I see them listed with and without the bracket. What's the deal there ? Does the bracket not come off of the radiator itself ? is it soldered/brazed on ?


Anyone who can shed some light on all this, please, I'd really appreciate it. If I lose this job, I'm in serious trouble. Not too many places around here hiring at all, much less a 39 year old guy with a busted up back who can't even work full-time anymore.

Thanks in advance... I do appreciate it.

John
 
Don't know where to start but the bracket would be for the IC and, even though I've never tried, I'm fairly sure it's removable.

Those Bosch-style injector "caps" enhance the spray pattern and can crack. You should be able to find those locally without changing injectors. Lots of old injectors laying around.

Good luck.
 
you only get 6 o rings to replace the head side. you dont need to pull the injectors out of the rail. the "top hat" is apintle cap and you can get them at carquest or napa for under 10 bucks.the bracket is brazed, i got mine off with a propane torch, then bolted it on the new one. with that much coolant coming out you may have blown your intake gasket. hope this helps some & good luck
 
Thanks guys... Appreciate the time.

About the radiator bracket, was it brazed, or soldered ? I'm thinking solder, since Brazing requires a much hotter torch and special rods.

How did you bolt it back on ? I haven't yanked it out of the car yet, since it's one of the easier things to do and figured I should get the hard stuff done first.

If it's brazed on, I'm going to be in trouble, trying to get it off and onto the new radiator without ruining it. I found a new radiator for less than 200 bucks, incidentally, shipped 2nd day at car-stuff.com Almost a hundred bucks less than Autozone. Hard to beat. I've got to save every penny I can right now.

Wonder if I can just epoxy it together. :rolleyes:


I'm pretty sure it's the head gasket(s). There's water in the oil too. It's a foamy friggen mess. Ever feel like you just can't catch ANY slack ? Sheesh...
 
Just a thought, I think spinningwheels-sc.com sells the radiator with the bracket already attached for pretty much the same price as anyone else i've seen.

You don't want to waste much time, get that thing tore apart and back together so you don't have water sitting in the oil for long. The next thing, you'll have is bearing noise. Get that shiit out with a couple good fresh oil changes when back together.

Make sure you resurface the heads and get new head bolts. You can do it pretty cheap yourself but when it comes down to it, its just not a very cheap ordeal to do the job right so you don't have the same problem in a month.

If you see any problems with wear on any rockers or pushrods let me know, I have extras I can send you. I know a few people on here used to sell the teflon gaskets for sealing the intercooler piping, works better then the silicone and is re-usable and cheap. Or, scp.com sells the proper sealing tape but it is kinda costly.

Chris
 
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Any radiator shop can attach the IC bracket it you need it done.....

I have seen both types of radiators and I think all of them had the threaded hole for the bolts.....:confused:

I also recommend replacing the head bolts with ARP studs.....

You are already going to have the costs of buying new head bolts, anyway......
 
Radiator

I have a radiator from my 89 XR7! Its for an auto so if you have an auto I'll sell it cheap to you just have to find out shipping, still has the rubber for around the IC.

Let me know,

Tom
 
Hey guys, Sorry it took me so long to reply, I've been killing myself trying to get this all apart.

Already bought the head bolts when I bought the gasket set, since autozone had everything online. I'm stuck home for the most part, since I don't have any other transportation, so I've mainly got to rely on fed-ex, etc to get me the stuff I need.

Still have to get the heads off, but most everything else is apart. The bolts were tight as hell, and a huge struggle, with my screwed up back and the whole lack of strength thing. Of course, then I find out I can't get the back bottom bolts off without having the exhaust manifolds off. Damn thing hits the wheel well if I try to wedge it off to the side and there's almost, but still not enough room to get an extension and socket in there. Was so close to smashing something at that point. The studs on the pipe end of the manifold feel like there's no thread left so now I have to get under the car and try to get those undone, with only the car's jack, one friggen jackstand and a couple cement blocks. Then what the hell do I do about the useless studs. Cutting them off and drilling them out might work, but that's going to be another nightmare. Unfortunately, once I can finally get the heads off, they're going to pretty much HAVE to go back on without getting surfaced or anything else. I just don't have the money for all that. I'm already behind on the bills and obviously the rent takes priority.

I've got a radiator coming, hopefully on monday. Bought it at car-parts.com for about 200 bucks, shipped two days. had hoped I'd have the car mostly apart by then but it's fighting me right and left. Every time I get ahead, it kicks me square in the nuts and I've got another fight on my hands.

Just seems like one thing after another now and it's killing me. I'm running out of money, running out of time, and weather, and patience, and then there's the damned pain, of course... As it is, I can't go back to my job without a doctors note now. Pisses me off so bad.... So, there's more money I've got to come up with. I'll be lucky if I can even keep my job, with the days I've missed so far. Really tired of all this and the damned car. Why couldn't it have happened early this year, when I was still living in arizona when it was warm and I had more access to stuff I needed.

Sorry for the rant, I'm about at my wits end now...

Do appreciate the replies. Seriously. I can barely think straight right now. You guys have helped me clear my head some, so far. Thanks.
 
I would try looking up some SC guys in your area that are willing to help you out. I'd post a call for help in the New England SC forum here. I couldn't imagine doing that job with a bad back by myself. The general consensus here is that if you don't at least have the heads milled that they will blow again shortly, in which case the money you've already spent will be a waste. I would at least try and get that done. There's really no cheap way out of head gaskets. I got my radiator from radiator express with the SCCOA discount. I think it was around 130-140 shipped. It's not the best but it gets me by. If you have to go without milling the heads I would make sure that both surfaces are clean as possible from all old gasket material. Hang in there and don't be afraid to ask for help.
 
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Thanks, Jeremy...

I wasn't even aware there's a separate N. England forum here. Guess I missed a link or two.

About not cutting the heads... I'm pretty much 'in the sticks' up here and there really isn't much around, that I know about. Then again, I really don't know since I've only lived here for about six months now, I think.

Money is also the problem at this point. As in, I'm rapidly running out. I honestly can't afford to get the machining done. The parts and shipping alone have almost cleaned me out or else I'd be REALLY happy to have someone do the work, considering the issues with my back and such. It's not a hell of a lot of fun trying to break loose tight head bolts, rusty exhaust studs, etc in my shape. Unfortunately, I can only do what I can, you know ?

As it is, I'm really worried the damn car is going to cost me the only job I could get up here. I've missed more days than they allow without a doctor's note and my 'doctor' is a clinic here... If they'll even GIVE me the note, remains to be seen.

Either way, I've got to get the car back on the road. If I get fired, I guess I'll have to deal with that however I can. Getting this job was hard enough...

Thanks for the reply, appreciate it.

John
 
this car can be very trying, and tiring, to work on if it's your first time...

it does get easier after you know how things go together.

have a manual, to look at ,to get an idea of what has to be done, and how.

if you don't work on cars that often, mark every-thing that comes off, and maybe even it's position..

choosing the right tool for the job is a must for the least amount of hassle,
if you have'nt taken the head bolts out yet, they will be tight, have a breaker bar handy, it will help save on the back a bit.

mine is a 90sc and the hardest head-bolt to get off for me was the one on the pass-side at the bottom rear of the head, there is a can like deal thats part of the air conditioner, on the fire-wall, it's in the way.

i know it sounds like your out of time, but, take your time doing what it is you have to do with-out getting your-self hurt any-more than what you all-ready are...i can relate to the back issue thing...it can be a bit price-y working on this model car -do it right or it could cost more to fix or you end up ditching the car

good luck...with your mission...have questions...this is a great place to be and ask
 
Well, it's all apart finally... Weather's killing me here. Rain, snow, sleet, woohoo !

The head gaskets were pretty ratty on the rear two cylinders, with the water jacket passage next to them. Pretty bad corrosion there. The block seems ok. There's a couple smallish pits on the heads, but nothing major. Hopefully the new head gaskets seal well and coolant doesn't get back around them again.

I'm very tempted to use some kind of additional sealer on the gaskets themselves, to help things stick better, especially around those coolant passages, but those of you who've done this before would know better than me, if that's a good idea. They're the Fel-pro fiber faced (silvery colored) gaskets. I've used them before on an '85 GT Mustang I had years ago and they worked beautifully, but that was a carburetor engine. I'm not sure how the increased pressure in the cylinders of this engine would affect the seal if I used anything extra. The instructions say to install them dry, but I REALLY don't want that coolant to make it's way back through the same spot again, you know ?

Please, feel free to chime in. God knows most of you guys have a hell of a lot more experience building these engines than I do. I'd appreciate any advice or thoughts you want to share.

Thanks !
 
Don't put anything else on them. Anything you use couldn't handle the presure anyway. Just be sure to follow the correct torque sequence which is in the manuals. Make sure those decks are all nice and clean. Good luck!
 
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