antilock brake light on

esgtbird

Registered User
My antilock light is on in my dash. Does any have any idea why? I removed the ecc for my stand alone. But i dont think that would have anything to do with it
 
The only way to really determine why you have the anti-lock light on is to read the codes of the ABS Computer. Other than that you are just guessing as to the reason.
 
test

OK

I tested it last night with the ford star tester and the tester did not even test the car it was like the tester did not even know the car was there like there is no power to the plug. Everything is hooked up and all plugs are connected. the pump wont even com on. Now if i jump the relay for the motor and send power to the pump motor the motor will run no problems and brakes work great. I changed the relay and it still does not work. It seems like the brake module is not telling the relay to come on. Also the pedal is really hard. So now what should i do????

Just to give a insight the car has a stand alone engine management and i have removed the ECC and the IRCM and all thier wiring. I am so close to taking this car for a ride its been sitting for 2 yrs I am so close but yet so far.



So here are my Questions:

1) What else can i do to diagnose the problem?
2) Can i just hard wire the motor to run with a relay off of the key switch signal?
3) Could something i removed be messing me up? Like the ECC or the IRCM

THANKS
ESGTBIRD
 
Last edited:
What year SC? Have you checked all your fuses and ensured you actually have power to the ABS Computer itself?
 
It is a 90 sc 5 speed and yes i checked all the fuses and they are all ok unless therem is a fuseable link some where i dont know of? I looked through the ford manual and found nothing. i am going to try to work on it tonight if someone has a idea feel free to call me at 443-271-3669 Eric
Thanks
ESGTBIRD:confused:
 
You have 3 things that operate the power brakes. A pressure switch, a pump motor relay, and the pump motor itself. If all of those things were working before, then check the harness under the hydraulic control unit (aka master cylinder) for unplugged cables, pinched wires, etc. Look at the fuse block under the hood for any burned out fuses.. The ABS computer doesn't control your brakes. All it does is monitor wheel braking and cycles the solenoid valves when it detects lockup. Not withstanding any problems in the primary brake unit, you can just unplug it if you wish and things will be fine.
 
You have 3 things that operate the power brakes. A pressure switch, a pump motor relay, and the pump motor itself. If all of those things were working before, then check the harness under the hydraulic control unit (aka master cylinder) for unplugged cables, pinched wires, etc. Look at the fuse block under the hood for any burned out fuses.. The ABS computer doesn't control your brakes. All it does is monitor wheel braking and cycles the solenoid valves when it detects lockup. Not withstanding any problems in the primary brake unit, you can just unplug it if you wish and things will be fine.

Where is the pressure switch at that may be the problem?
 
I just re-read your post....

Your pump motor will only run when you by-pass the relay, correct.....

If so, then replace your ABS relay.....:p

If the pump runs but doesn't shut off, it most likely will be the pressure switch which is located right next to the fender well on the DS of the master cylinder.....
 
the abs pump can not run at all times or else it will burn up, your best bet is to either get it working properly or replace the master cylinder with a standard m/c and have regular brakes.

i personally would figure out a way to get it working. try jumping the pressure switch to see if maybe its faulty, make sure the ignition is on
 
Your pump motor will only run when you by-pass the relay, correct.....
If so, then replace your ABS relay.....:p
What ed said.
Its a simple thing to replace; doesn't cost a lot and eventually you'll probably need to replace it anyway. The pressure switch is inside the ABS hydraulic assembly. Not all that easy to replace. There is a way to test it, but try the relay first. :D
 
I already changed the motor relay. is that the same as the abs relay?
I am just to the point where i am losing interest in the car i am ready to sell it. i think if someone came up and offered me $4000.00 i would sell it. I been working on it for 2 yrs i couldn't tell you how much i have in it. over $8000.00 easy. and still to this day have not even took a ride in it. Now i have the headers off to wrap them. it seems like i just cant get to the point where i can get a little enjoyment nothing. I am not a quitter but enough is enough.

Does any one have a pic of the pressure switch i cant seem to remember what it looks like or where it is located?

ESGTBIRD
 
I suggest to read this article I wrote. Look at the picture of the Hydraulic Actuator Assembly...it shows where the Pressure Switch is BUT......

http://www.albeedigital.com/supercoupe/articles/abs-system.html

From what you described I would say you need a new Accumulator first but this is NOT the reason you have the amber Anti--lock light on. Problems with the ABS Motor running give you a Red brake ligght NOT the Anti-lock light. The ABS Relay provides power to the ABS Computer. It is located next to the ABS Motor Relay. I suggest you have codes read on the ABS Computer and report back. If the light is on you most likely have hard codes in the computer.

Read the article and do a search on the board since these problems are well documented even in the public portions of the board.
 
Duffy

I had the codes read and the reader could not test the abs because the reader could not communicate with the computer. I will by a new relay for the abs computer tonight and let you know from there.
ESGTBIRD
 
Duffy

I had the codes read and the reader could not test the abs because the reader could not communicate with the computer. I will by a new relay for the abs computer tonight and let you know from there.
ESGTBIRD
Or... just unplug the stupid computer. :D Provided you have no problems with the actual hydraulics, worn out accumulator, or wiring under the hood, your brakes will operate perfectly. You just won't have antilock. ;)
 
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