What have you done to reduce wheel hop?
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XxSlowpokexX
Registered User
personally I found a good rear tire to make a huge difference...Along with that good motor, tranny and rear IRS mounts as well as rear control arm bushings..
T-bird Tim
Registered User
Ensure that your rear shocks are in good condition first. I added the rear bags to my SC and it virtually eliminated the wheel hop. It's a great investment and it's easy and inexpensive to do.
Mikessupercoupe
Registered User
I have airbags in mine but as Damon said good tires, and good bushings make all the difference.
Mike
Mike
sinhumane
Registered User
i've researched, and learned. if you watch a 5-speed car hopping, you'll notice theat tthey almost move in an elliptical pattern, not just up and down like mustangs experience.
your irs is DESIGNED to allow toe in and toe out (hence your forward and back motion) to reduce oversteer in heavy cornering, kindof like 4wheel steering, keeps teh tires tracking the right way.
also, stiffening it up i've noticed is putting a LOT of stress on your components. wheelhop is drivetrain resonance, noone kis really sure what it is caused by, but it starts as soon as the crank dumps into the transmission. could be clutch, could be flywheel, could be driveshaft for all we know, but it happens when different amounts of torque are applied to either rear wheel and they attempt to move independently. the toe compensators deflect and allow this to occur. one wheel moves forward, while one stays, and the other wheel snaps back into place to meet its parter.
so, what can fix that?
your tracloc rearend isnt a true locking rearend, wheelhop has started before it can lock up.
so, you'll need something like eatons e-locker rear, or some people have reported torsen differentials completely eliminating wheelhop.
(im not even getting into torsens, too complicated to wrap my head around)
your irs is DESIGNED to allow toe in and toe out (hence your forward and back motion) to reduce oversteer in heavy cornering, kindof like 4wheel steering, keeps teh tires tracking the right way.
also, stiffening it up i've noticed is putting a LOT of stress on your components. wheelhop is drivetrain resonance, noone kis really sure what it is caused by, but it starts as soon as the crank dumps into the transmission. could be clutch, could be flywheel, could be driveshaft for all we know, but it happens when different amounts of torque are applied to either rear wheel and they attempt to move independently. the toe compensators deflect and allow this to occur. one wheel moves forward, while one stays, and the other wheel snaps back into place to meet its parter.
so, what can fix that?
your tracloc rearend isnt a true locking rearend, wheelhop has started before it can lock up.
so, you'll need something like eatons e-locker rear, or some people have reported torsen differentials completely eliminating wheelhop.
(im not even getting into torsens, too complicated to wrap my head around)
Maybe you can tell some of us where to find these so the rest of us can enjoy it too, I'd like to learn maybe why this eliminates the wheel hop and perhaps how to install?
Thanks,
John
Ira R.
Registered User
I'm guessing Mike and Tim both have automatics as they have given methods of stopping vertical wheelhop... not the forward/backward motion that the 5-speed cars experience
I don't know about Tim but Mike has a 5 speed in the car. And a very powerful car at that, so if he is having positive results then it is something we should all be able to duplicate regardless of the power level.
Ira
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ricardoa1
Registered User
These cars 5spds had Wheel Hop from the factory. Rebuilding the said parts will only get you to the wheelhop that came from the factory and not the amplified version of worn out parts.
I think a lateral link on the upper control arm will help eliminate it. Almost like the front strut rod that we have but placed in the upper control arm. All other mods will alleviate the issue. Bags, sway bars, rear IRS main bushings, etc.
From reading it seems to be engine harmonics. If we cannot stop that the the only solution is let the drive train resonate but stop it where its causing the problem. And that in the rear control arms, in the back and forth motion and up and down in and out of traction.
I think a lateral link on the upper control arm will help eliminate it. Almost like the front strut rod that we have but placed in the upper control arm. All other mods will alleviate the issue. Bags, sway bars, rear IRS main bushings, etc.
From reading it seems to be engine harmonics. If we cannot stop that the the only solution is let the drive train resonate but stop it where its causing the problem. And that in the rear control arms, in the back and forth motion and up and down in and out of traction.
sinhumane
Registered User
all while decimating your bushings.
if someone can make poly or aluminum bushings for our cars like cobras have, along with various other mods, and those lateral links (like dan sly is running on his car, maybe he can chime in for us) you can stop it, but things are going to wear out if you're hard on it, jsut be aware.
a torsen is different, it differentiates torque at a rate that would make your head swim, preventing the wheels from moving forward and back independently. while still retaining your toe compensators.
plus, at 500 bucks, theyre an EXCELLENT investment.
Ira R.
Registered User
I stand corrected
Well it certainly is in my case!! Ira
92bird
Registered User
The airbags do help, when you remember to inflate them..
But converting to an automatic, thats your best bet for a high hp car. That's what I'm doing.
IF you can wait a few weeks, I'll have a complete coil spring airbag system up for sale. ITs just like the SCP one, except it has an electric air compressor to fill them, and dual gauges to see what PSI they are filled to. IT also has individual relief valves so you can adjust the pressure from side to side. I have about $300 into it, and will probably sell the whole "kit" for $100 plus shipping. PM me if you are interested.
Jeramie
But converting to an automatic, thats your best bet for a high hp car. That's what I'm doing.
IF you can wait a few weeks, I'll have a complete coil spring airbag system up for sale. ITs just like the SCP one, except it has an electric air compressor to fill them, and dual gauges to see what PSI they are filled to. IT also has individual relief valves so you can adjust the pressure from side to side. I have about $300 into it, and will probably sell the whole "kit" for $100 plus shipping. PM me if you are interested.
Jeramie
XxSlowpokexX
Registered User
Well let me further explain my car.
Low mile,,,Spec clutch...1 and 1/2 lowered.
Car right off theh bat had wheel hop.
The day I put on my Nitto extreme 285 17's the wheel hop went away..I wass sooo haappyyy.
6 months later....Wheelhop along with an awful vibration at idle (awful meaning it vibrated.)
My thoughts are that in factory form the sc gets wheelhop...Some beefy tires will help immensly...However the beefy tires in my case led to ripping both motormounts in half which landed me wheelhop once again .
As been mentioned the toe compensation is someting thats been discussed many times here before. In stock 100% condition form it helps us get a very predictable feel handeling wise. When tHe bushings wear that toe compensation feature may actually worsen the handeling and lead to more violent wheelhop. Canging to a poly or delrin bushing will effect how the toe in compensation works and will throw your handeling off. Will that be better then a wasted busing...Probably...They dont make dual clutch setups for us however a torsen type dif may help as well but in an entirely different way.
in the end for me good factory busings and good tires eliminated my weelhop. I'd start there then altering the dynamics of the factory suspension in a bushing kinda way
Low mile,,,Spec clutch...1 and 1/2 lowered.
Car right off theh bat had wheel hop.
The day I put on my Nitto extreme 285 17's the wheel hop went away..I wass sooo haappyyy.
6 months later....Wheelhop along with an awful vibration at idle (awful meaning it vibrated.)
My thoughts are that in factory form the sc gets wheelhop...Some beefy tires will help immensly...However the beefy tires in my case led to ripping both motormounts in half which landed me wheelhop once again .
As been mentioned the toe compensation is someting thats been discussed many times here before. In stock 100% condition form it helps us get a very predictable feel handeling wise. When tHe bushings wear that toe compensation feature may actually worsen the handeling and lead to more violent wheelhop. Canging to a poly or delrin bushing will effect how the toe in compensation works and will throw your handeling off. Will that be better then a wasted busing...Probably...They dont make dual clutch setups for us however a torsen type dif may help as well but in an entirely different way.
in the end for me good factory busings and good tires eliminated my weelhop. I'd start there then altering the dynamics of the factory suspension in a bushing kinda way
ricardoa1
Registered User
I am not disagreeing with you that a good set of tires will help with HOp.
But you are not eliminating it, Your tires migh not work the same with another car with lets say a different power output or suspension work.
I dont think you have eliminated it on your car, you can't eliminate something that is always present, You just found a good way to fight it.
Do we really need those toe compensators what if they are made out of solid material. how will the car handle and will it fix the HOP. No one really knows.
But you are not eliminating it, Your tires migh not work the same with another car with lets say a different power output or suspension work.
I dont think you have eliminated it on your car, you can't eliminate something that is always present, You just found a good way to fight it.
Do we really need those toe compensators what if they are made out of solid material. how will the car handle and will it fix the HOP. No one really knows.
Micahdogg
Registered User
I think Manny was onto something when he replaced the rubber isolators in the IRS subframe with solid steel. However, you have to worry about added vibration and possibly cracks developing somewhere else. Get things too rigid and cracks start to appear.
I just don't destroy the tires in 1st gear. Spinning is one thing, but shocking the drivetrain with a clutch dump is a surefire way to send your axles into fits. If you want to drive like this, use a wrinkle wall tire like MT ET Streets or Drags to help soak up the chaos. This will be a track only tire though, so it doesn't fix your street wheel hop.
I just don't destroy the tires in 1st gear. Spinning is one thing, but shocking the drivetrain with a clutch dump is a surefire way to send your axles into fits. If you want to drive like this, use a wrinkle wall tire like MT ET Streets or Drags to help soak up the chaos. This will be a track only tire though, so it doesn't fix your street wheel hop.
ricardoa1
Registered User
all while decimating your bushings.
if someone can make poly or aluminum bushings for our cars like cobras have, along with various other mods, and those lateral links (like dan sly is running on his car, maybe he can chime in for us) you can stop it, but things are going to wear out if you're hard on it, jsut be aware.
a torsen is different, it differentiates torque at a rate that would make your head swim, preventing the wheels from moving forward and back independently. while still retaining your toe compensators.
plus, at 500 bucks, theyre an EXCELLENT investment.
You have to be careful of recomending these type of locker rear ends. It might be another fix for hop but, what happens when you break an axel and the car imediately takes a turn and puts you into the wall, or while on the street spins you around. It migh not be a big deal if you are still in first gear only but if you are going from 1-2 while racing. You have to be careful in choosing these non friction lockers.
You're no fun! Where's your sense of excitement?
These cars aren't front wheel drive...
Say you break a halfshaft at the first joint, and the other end connected to the wheel still somehow manages not to lodge into anything (a problem you could have with any differential).... All of your power is being sent to the other wheel.... How is this any different than a one wheel peel? Last time I checked, I didn't go into mad tyte' doughnuts everytime I smashed the gas with my open differential...
Word of advice as well... If you snap a halfshaft... let off of the gas!