custom FMIC questions

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RoccoRock05

Registered User
What would be the best position of the end tanks on a custom front mount to route the piping? Inlet & outlet on one side, one on each side, top, bottom, etc. I want to keep the stock top for the supercharger. I also want to keep everything the way it is. No A/C delete, or shortened A/C condenser.
 
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I'm no expert on this, but i would think that you would get the most cooling from the inlet and outlet being on opposite sides. whether one is on the bottom or top, I'm not sure if the inlet should be on the top since heat rises and the outlet being on the bottom where the "cooler" area of the I/C would be.

i know this isn't the best example, but a radiator is a heat exchanger also. so, with that in mind, my '57 FC150 jeep has a radiator that has the inlet and the outlet both on the top. there is a divider in the top tank that inhibits the coolant from just going to the outlet side and forces it through the core.

if you want both the inlet and outlet on both sides for a cleaner look(read: factory style routing) i guess you could do a divider in the drivers side tank and make the boosted air do a loop in the I/C. I'm sure it'd be more of a restriction but just an idea. maybe it'll work, maybe people with these FMICs will chime in and tell me I'm off my rocker:rolleyes:.
 
i see what youre saying. i understand that the intercooler might not be as efficient as it should be if the inlet and outlet are on the same side, but come on, anything has got to be better than the stock piece! :D im more concerned about having to change too many things around to make it all fit and having the end tanks in a certain location obviously affects the pipe routing. The most important thing is the pipe routing. The less pipe, the better. Please, nobody say buy an MP FMIC, i dont have 1100+ EXTRA dollars sittin around :D
 
on my first attempt at a custom fmic I did on my '89 I went with the inlet/outlet on opposite ends of the i/c. The pipe routing was similar to the MP fmic and it works great. I'm going a different route on the i/c set up I'm making for my '94, the inlet/outlet are going to be on the same side so that i can run both pipes through the hole left by removing the stock i/c and using a shorty condenser or no condenser. If you're not going to a shorty condenser then you'll be more limited on your pipe routing but do a search and you can see the different set ups everyone has come up with to make theirs work.

Here's the i/c I'm going with on my '94

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...viewitem=&item=180216278125&_trksid=p3907.m32

Here's the location of the i/c on my '89 and a pic of the piping (overkill 3" piping)
 
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i was just on e-bay and there is some inexpensive FMICs on that site. if they are small enough (height not width) maybe you could route them in a series.
for example the inlet would go into the first one on the drivers side, exit on the passengers side, do a 180 to the lower I/C and then exit on the drivers side again. some 90s and a 180 pipe bend and some silicone couplers and clamps. more of your time but less of your money to fabricate this proposed set up.
 
youre talkin about a similar type setup from a 300zx right? using seperate intercoolers for both turbos. Only in this case you would connect them together.....is that what youre gettin at? if i DID HAVE to change to a shortened A/C condenser, what exactly do i need for that? part number, necessary things to know etc. Ill be doing this on my 94 as well.
 
RoccoRock05 said:
youre talkin about a similar type setup from a 300zx right? using seperate intercoolers for both turbos. Only in this case you would connect them together.....is that what youre gettin at?
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similar, yes. think of two intercoolers stacked longways(read:horizontally) and connected with a 180 degree bend on the pass side. ofcourse these would have to be relatively narrow to fit height wise.
in a nutshell, yes.
 
nickleman60 said:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...viewitem=&item=180216278125&_trksid=p3907.m32
Click to expand...
i just went out and measured my core support on my 95 S/C and the dimensions on the above linked i/c looks like it'd fit very nicely w/o the a/c condenser.
search this site for bronco condensers that retrofit into our cars. if i remember right, they are about half a big. you may be able to mount one in front of your FMIC and put the i/c inside the core support. you probibly wouldn't have as much stuff to move around doing it this way(windsheild washer stuff, airbag sensors and the like).
 
cmill95 said:
i just went out and measured my core support on my 95 S/C and the dimensions on the above linked i/c looks like it'd fit very nicely w/o the a/c condenser.
search this site for bronco condensers that retrofit into our cars. if i remember right, they are about half a big. you may be able to mount one in front of your FMIC and put the i/c inside the core support. you probibly wouldn't have as much stuff to move around doing it this way(windsheild washer stuff, airbag sensors and the like).
Click to expand...

REMEMBER THAT 94/95'S HAVE A PUSHER FAN IN FRONT OF THE AC CONDENSER THAT YOU HAVE TO DEAL WITH or ILIMINATE. I BOUGHT MY SHORTY AC CONDENSER OFF OF THIS SITE. I'VE DONE A LOT OF SEARCHING WITH I/C SIZES AND CONFIGURATIONS AND I LOVE THE ONE I BOUGHT. I'LL ALSO BE INSTALLING A 12" PUSHER FAN ON IT.
 
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cmill95 said:
BTW, you don't have to yell:eek:.
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Sorry, didn't realize the cap lock was on til after I finished typing, too lazy to re-type........:rolleyes:

I'm getting creative to fit my fmic/fan and still use the stock pusher fan along with a shorty condenser.
 
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so overall what exactly is going to be needed for a custom FMIC? Intercooler, piping, hoses, clamps, condenser,....... what other KEY items are needed?
 
RoccoRock05 said:
so overall what exactly is going to be needed for a custom FMIC? Intercooler, piping, hoses, clamps, condenser,....... what other KEY items are needed?
Click to expand...

Although it might not neccessary, I always add a i/c fan just to make double sure I have a good air flow through the i/c. Other than that you named everything needed, no clamps though, use t-bolts which come with alot of the piping kits now. With a little imagination, forethought and mechanical ability you can have a set up as good as or better than the Mp fmic for a fraction of the cost. If you have no fabrication skills then go with the Mp unit as it's a direct bolt-on.
 
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