Carbon fiber brake setup?

[Jim Demmitt Jr]

Carbon Brake setup

We are looking into this setup right now as the top end speeds we are reaching its hard to get the car stopped with a short shutoff area. The Carbon fiber brakes dont heat up as quick plus are much lighter rotors. Anyone els thought of going to that type of setup? We are checking into Lamb units

[dwayne]

sounds like a go to me that is a great breaking system.

[Jim Demmitt Jr]

sounds like a go to me that is a great breaking system.


Its a good setup

There is a lot of Pro ET racers with Carbon brake setup they say it stops quicker and dont get the quick heat buildup plus a lot less rotating weight thats a performance gain. I now have to get on the brakes real hard to get this heavy car stopped going 9's with big top end speed its a differaint world down on top end now

[dwayne]

hard breaking---ain't good no way.

[95badbird]

My car is in no way fast by any means. But, my brakes on my car are excellent. Since I have dropped around 1000 lbs off the car, the brakes are....GREAT!

[bigpoppa822]

Companies like Porsche are offering them on production cars now, I think for a Porsche it costs as much as a new Toyota Yaris, just like Lamborghini decides to charge $10,000 for paddle shifters.

[Randy N Connie]

Carbon Brake setup
Anyone els thought of going to that type of setup? We are checking into Lamb units

I made & sold carbon carbon brakes for drag bikes 20 years ago.
I still have some sets, I have posted pictures on line here
of my style carbon-carbon rotors. . 9oz. for rotor & 1.5 lbs.Wt.

I also was the first to introduced carbon fiber wheels with and without
bead locks to harley drag racing. 9lbs Wt. bead loc with titainium
bolts 11.5

I also manufactured carbon fiber pushrods,For drag racers. I have
a blank sets ready for one of my SC motors if I deside to do a build.
They have heat treaded 4130 ball ends 20 gram WT. and I also made
titainium roller lifters for racers.

I used carbonfiber wheelie bars. 8 LBS

I also made and sold carbon fiber body parts.

I have used carbonfiber for motor plates.

At the track some use to call me MR CARBON FIBER,And we
did drag race coverage for McMillon publishing,(HotBike mag)
in an artical covering harley drag racing they added & called me
mr carbon fiber, titled under a picture of me.and the name stuck
for a while until I retierd from racing and vending drag race parts.

Randy

[DamonSlowpokeBaumann]

I personally want a pictures of you with Mr Carbon Fiber under it...Ill even laminate it!:D

[MagpoweredSC]

Carbon Brake setup

We are looking into this setup right now as the top end speeds we are reaching its hard to get the car stopped with a short shutoff area. The Carbon fiber brakes dont heat up as quick plus are much lighter rotors. Anyone els thought of going to that type of setup? We are checking into Lamb units

Jim,
Talk to Kevin Leitem, I know he put some drag racing/lightweight caliper and rotor setup, he can probably tell you what he experienced.

[Randy N Connie]

I personally want a pictures of you with Mr Carbon Fiber under it...Ill even laminate it!:D

You forgot to ask for it to be autographed. :)

Mr. Carbon fiber.

[DamonSlowpokeBaumann]

Thats too!..Because I will ebay it in about 20 years and retire on the profits!

[Randy N Connie]

Jim my experiance with carbon-carbon rotors reaching there optimun
operating temps, This is such a small amount of time you would not notice
a difference between your steel,iron rotors compaired to the carbon-carbon units.

Things you will notice is the hotter they get, you will notice no brake fade.
One of the biggest reason of less brake fade is because you will be running
carbon-carbon brake shoes. The carbon-carbon material will not transfur
heat into the brake caliper nearly as fast as normal brake systems.
keeping brake fluild cooler for a longer period of time. On my brake
pads that I glued together, I always use a ceramic coating on the
steel portion of the pads rear surface.

One large bad point for carbon-carbon rotors, are they cannot take
the slightest shear loading. They shatter very easy. just a tiny rock
up off the track the size of a pea.

Because of cost and the small Wt. savings you would get from the Carbon-Carbon brake rotors. I would get a thinner steel drag race rotor.
The Carbon-Carbon rotors are built with the same type light Wt. supporting aluminum/titainium parts as a drag race brake rotor set-up..

Both rotor set-up's should start off with a aluminum, titainium wheel hub.
Next both rotors set-up's will use aluminum, Ti, brake rotor hats. So
the brake Wt. savings between the two type racing brake set-up's.
Is in the Wt. savings between the rotor materials only. Compair the Wt.
of the Carbon-Carbon rotors material ,to a Strange or Lamb steel rotor
with the thickness of around .350 to .400 of on inch will not be great.

Just adding a aluminum front wheel hub. That has a star shaped machined
lightening around the wheel studs. Will make up the difference between
the thin light Wt.racing steel rotor to the Carbon-Carbon rotor Wt. savings.

Plus you can use two small aluminum calipers to each front wheel to
stop faster. Or a four piston caliper to each front wheel.

If your turning 135MPH through the 1/4 mile. Arent you close to
having NHRA tell you to start thinking about running a shute.

Randy

[Jim Demmitt Jr]

Jim my experiance with carbon-carbon rotors reaching there optimun
operating temps, This is such a small amount of time you would not notice
a difference between your steel,iron rotors compaired to the carbon-carbon units.

Things you will notice is the hotter they get, you will notice no brake fade.
One of the biggest reason of less brake fade is because you will be running
carbon-carbon brake shoes. The carbon-carbon material will not transfur
heat into the brake caliper nearly as fast as normal brake systems.
keeping brake fluild cooler for a longer period of time. On my brake
pads that I glued together, I always use a ceramic coating on the
steel portion of the pads rear surface.

One large bad point for carbon-carbon rotors, are they cannot take
the slightest shear loading. They shatter very easy. just a tiny rock
up off the track the size of a pea.

Because of cost and the small Wt. savings you would get from the Carbon-Carbon brake rotors. I would get a thinner steel drag race rotor.
The Carbon-Carbon rotors are built with the same type light Wt. supporting aluminum/titainium parts as a drag race brake rotor set-up..

Both rotor set-up's should start off with a aluminum, titainium wheel hub.
Next both rotors set-up's will use aluminum, Ti, brake rotor hats. So
the brake Wt. savings between the two type racing brake set-up's.
Is in the Wt. savings between the rotor materials only. Compair the Wt.
of the Carbon-Carbon rotors material ,to a Strange or Lamb steel rotor
with the thickness of around .350 to .400 of on inch will not be great.

Just adding a aluminum front wheel hub. That has a star shaped machined
lightening around the wheel studs. Will make up the difference between
the thin light Wt.racing steel rotor to the Carbon-Carbon rotor Wt. savings.

Plus you can use two small aluminum calipers to each front wheel to
stop faster. Or a four piston caliper to each front wheel.

If your turning 135MPH through the 1/4 mile. Arent you close to
having NHRA tell you to start thinking about running a shute.

Randy



Randy

Thanks for all the info its very much appreciated the NHRA rules parachute mandatory with top speed over 150mph. Bob is looking in differaint options that we may use in that area. At 139mph its getting harder to stop it and the rotors are real hot and seam to fade quick. How far are you on your project?

[Randy N Connie]

Randy

How far are you on your project?

I have not been able to do much work on my car since the
Oklahoma shootout 2 plus years ago. I have not been
able to stand up for over 4 or 5 minutes at a time,
then I need to lay down for a hour or so. So with the
health problems I have. I don't think my SC Bird will
ever run again.I need to pull motor after it was damaged
on the dyno after chip change,detonation. Then the tune
I got had my motor running so rich that it washed my
cylinders down. fuel milage droped to around three miles
per gallon. Got it retuned a couple days later, ran better.
But the damage was already done. I have not been able
to pull motor to rebuild.....

I was able to finish some parts in the winter spring
of 2005 -06-07 for a new motor that had been in my plans.
I finished the molds , plugs ,casting for new aluminum heads
for my 3.8 motors, new intake manifold. I can set in my chair
and lay down while doing this type work. But it takes 30
days to do the work that I use to do in one half day.

For a couple years I have been looking for a rail dragster
to put my 3.8 motors in. I looked at one about a week ago.
It was a 180" wheel base, rear engine mount, with glide
trans. In the past it had a Chevy V-6 NASCAR type engine.
It now has a small block CHEV V-8. It has always been
used as a ET Bracket car. I was not happy with the chassis
build. So we did not buy it. This was the third one we have
looked at over the past couple years. They were either
junk like the last one, or over priced.

I think that I would be beter off if I tried to build my own
chassis. this would be a job that I think I could do setting
down. As far as cutting tubes, noching, bending,welding.

Jim this part you may be able to help me with.
My problem is that in the past I am not a drag racer of cars.
So I have never build a rail type chassis for a dragster.
If you or others could come up with info,places on line that
I could get info for a dragster rail type car chassis build.

I love to burn down the track, but my passion is in build.
I find more enjoyment in watching someone else burn down
the track with my builds or parts than racing down the track
myself. I feel better standing in the back lines of a race tream.
than being up front on the stage as a pilot is.

I have been a drag racer since 1969 for other reasons
than most. I don't have the need to prove my is bigger
than others.By running others down, Like a few do here.
I have a good feeling for others, when someone or a team
surpass's there performance goals. One of my best and
fondest memories of Drag racing, was watching a team
after they beat us at a race in Bowlinggreen KY. They
were so happy that the pilot was rolling around on the
ground. This realy made me have a great feeling.

Thanks Randy

[Toms-SC]

So wait, your considering a brake set up for $x000's of dollars and you cant go to Dayton? :confused:

[SUPERMN12]

NHRA just started using a new stopping procedure for fast cars:rolleyes: I dont understand why you havent been using a parachute this whole time. For the price of CF brakes (porche's CF brake setup starts @ $20k) a simpson SFI approved skyjacker only runs $300.00.

[Randy N Connie]

So wait, your considering a brake set up for $x000's of dollars and you cant go to Dayton? :confused:

He can afford a set,And I may choose to give him a set.

Why would any pro racer want to race with people
like you that have nothing to say that amount's to
a tiny hill of beans.Just what do you feel you gain
from being a rude a$$.

Randy

[Jim Demmitt Jr]

He can afford a set,And I may choose to give him a set.

Why would any pro racer want to race with people
like you that have nothing to say that amount's to
a tiny hill of beans.Just what do you feel you gain
from being a rude a$$.

Randy


Thanks Randy

I think that some like Tommy Boy will get the "BIG PICTURE" the main reason Dayton meet we may not go to is the fact paying Bob and Dan for the days they miss at work for the time to go to that meet plus other and travel $$$. We like racing other Pro racers here on the West Coast they have such great Sportsmanship and its fun


Your info and help is so much appreciated you being a pro racer and your sportmanship is great thank you. I look forward to seeing you run some big numbers once you get to the testing point. Are you going with the C4 or Powerglide?