Don't try this at home folks.

TbirdSCFan

TbirdSCFan

Registered User
The black car came into my possession in need of head gaskets. Well, it needed a lot more than
that; filthy would be an understatement. No better time to clean the block than now.

Who needs seafoam when you can use degreaser. :eek: :eek:

As an occasional slayer of sacred cows, I just had to share this. ;)
 

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last time i washed my other engine it messed up 7 out of 8 coils :eek:.. no thanks for me
 
CurtisPaulfrey said:
well ~~~~, maybe thats why my SC has been running like ~~~~.....
Click to expand...

Yup, if it is 180° from the picture, that would be a problem. Probably hard to start. The CPS tells the EEC where the cam shaft is so it can fire the proper fuel injector. Connector should be pointing down similar to the picture. They make a plastic tool that will align the CPS correctly. I got mine at my local Ford dealer. However, not sure they are available anymore as a lot of stuff is not. Suggest when you get it set properly that you take a pin punch and put alignment dots on the block and CPS shaft housing.

Ed

’94 SC Red Auto: 110,000 Miles, Headers, No Cats, Pro Torque 2500 Stall Converter, TRANSGO Shift Kit, 10,000 Lbs Auxiliary Tranny Cooler, Tranny Fluid Temp Gauge, 3.73 Gears, 70mm BK Throttle Body, 76mm C&L MAF with Gold Tube, A/F Ratio Gauge, Raised SC Top, Teflon IC Seals, ’90 XR7 SC Pulley, ARP Head-Rod-Main Studs, Scorpion 1.73 Rockers, Solid Motor Mounts, Iridium Plugs, Live Wire Plug Wires, Screamin’ Demon Coil, 36# Accel FIs, Custom Air intake, K&N 9” Cone, Royal Purple Synthetic Lubricants and Optima Yellow Top.
 
edspringer said:
Suggest when you get it set properly that you take a pin punch and put alignment dots on the block and CPS shaft housing.
Click to expand...
I used a sharpie. :D

Of course, it won't help you if you extract the synchronizer shaft. You will have to realign it with the 26 deg ATC procedure. Its not as bad as it sounds, and you can eyeball the alignment of the cup to where its dead even between the notch. Biggest pain is getting the tamper proof torx bolt out. I had to grind off the nub with a dremel tool to be able to use a normal torx bit. :cool:
 
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TbirdSCFan said:
I used a sharpie. :D

Of course, it won't help you if you extract the synchronizer shaft. You will have to realign it with the 26 deg ATC procedure. Its not as bad as it sounds, and you can eyeball the alignment of the cup to where its dead even between the notch. Biggest pain is getting the tamper proof torx bolt out. I had to grind off the nub with a dremel tool to be able to use a normal torx bit. :cool:
Click to expand...

tamper proof torx bit set auto zone $15 t15-t45:)
 
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