View Full Version : Turbo Update #2

super red91
03-02-2008, 12:33 PM
Hotside is 100% complete, everything will be going out to get ceramic coated this week. The 3.5" downpipe is also partially done, just needs a small straight section welded on to get it out of the engine bay. I also decided to externally dump the wastegate, I don't care if its loud :rolleyes:

Next I will be working on mounting the new intercooler and making a custom upper for the n/a lower intake.


XR7 Dave
03-02-2008, 12:48 PM
Nice job. Too bad your photo album is private. :rolleyes:

super red91
03-02-2008, 02:52 PM
Fixed :o...

03-02-2008, 06:39 PM
Pardon me ifn I missed it, but what is the turbo.


03-02-2008, 07:38 PM
Looking great Ryan! Will you be ready to head to Dayton in May??:eek:

super red91
03-02-2008, 08:27 PM
Looking great Ryan! Will you be ready to head to Dayton in May??:eek:

That is my goal...the turbo is a garrett GT35R

David Neibert
03-02-2008, 10:48 PM
Looks good. BTW, Doesn't look like it would be very difficult to plumb the wastegate to the downpipe. I think your going to be unhappy if you vent it to atmosphere.


super red91
03-03-2008, 09:33 AM
That is one reason why I put the wastegate where it is. If it is too loud for me I can always plumb it back into the DP and it shouldnt be too hard to make a small pipe.

David Neibert
03-03-2008, 01:23 PM
That is one reason why I put the wastegate where it is. If it is too loud for me I can always plumb it back into the DP and it shouldnt be too hard to make a small pipe.

It's not just the noise, it's the exhaust fumes venting below the front of the car. Being that close to the exhaust manifolds, what comes out the wastegate will also be very hot and needs to be kept away form wires, hoses or oil covered stuff to avoid a fire.

Once you get everything coated, you are not going to want to do any welding, so if your even thinking there is a chance of plumbing it into the downpipe, now is the time.

On the intake manifold...are you planning to use a 3.8 NA lower and bread box style upper or the 3.8 NA upper ?


super red91
03-03-2008, 02:04 PM
Where the tube dumps now is right in front of the K member behind the sway bar, there really is nothing in the way of the dump. And I figured it will only be open when the wastegate has to open to regulate boost, I can deal with any exhaust smell during that time:).

Yea I have a n/a lower that I just started porting. On top of that will be a custom upper with the TB facing forward.

03-03-2008, 03:55 PM

If you weld in the intake, especially the areas near the bolt bosses, you will be able to add significantly more porting to the N/A lower. What hp goals are you attempting to reach?

super red91
03-03-2008, 05:22 PM
I plan on making a surpassing 400rwhp by a certain amount :p

Do you have any pictures of where you added material?

03-03-2008, 05:36 PM
I can post some, but I have to take them. I will try for later tonight. I was doing a build up on my LX. I have bought exhaust, some heads that I ported, a cam, 1.8 rollers, injectors and larger TB etc., so I wanted to get the most out of the intakes as well.

I have ported an N/A lower before and had to weld in these areas as I punched through. This time, I welded in the problem areas first. Less headaches than repairing a hole.

03-04-2008, 02:08 AM
Man I need to learn how to weld.Your set-ups looking great can't wait to see the finished product.


03-21-2008, 09:29 PM

Sorry I forgot to post these. The welded areas are in the yellow boxes. Compare it to a stock intake and you will be able to see the difference. I have not ground the welds completely so it is still possible to see the lines if you look close.

03-21-2008, 09:31 PM
By welding those areas in, you will be able to port the runners to eliminate the noticeable bump in the upper corners.

03-21-2008, 09:33 PM
You can really open up the runners themselves as well. Inside they have nasty ridges and bead lines as though the intake were welded together from many different pieces. These "ledges" severely impede flow and there are numerous protrusions from every wall.

03-21-2008, 09:37 PM
If you really want to open the manifold up, you can weld in the areas above and below each of these odd protrusions on the runners of the manifold. This would allow you to raise the internal rrof by a signifcant amount and may provide a better flow path for your turbocharged air stream. I did not bother as mine is for an N/A motor.

David Neibert
04-16-2008, 12:35 PM
Just curious about how is this project coming along ?


super red91
04-16-2008, 03:37 PM
The pipes took longer than expected to get coated, but they will be done this friday. At that time I plan to bolt them on for the final time. Other than that I've been working on alot of small things, coolant lines, oil lines etc... I also finished porting my lower intake manifold and have my custom upper complete. I will post some more pictures this weekend.

04-16-2008, 04:31 PM
I'm curious to see what you did with the lower. Upper should be interesting as well.

super red91
04-16-2008, 05:30 PM
My lower intake manifold is missing one intake bolt per side. The one it is missing is the one that interferes with the two closest intake ports, so I guess it works out for me :rolleyes:

I'll be sure to post pictures this weekend...

04-16-2008, 05:39 PM
Must be a later intake. I don't recall if the 96-98 intakes were different. The outer runners have those dimples though too unless that was revised as well.

super red91
05-05-2008, 08:21 AM
Pics of the intake manifold were added in the link of the first page...I still have to weld on the mount for the linkage but thats it.

David Neibert
05-05-2008, 11:21 AM
Upper intake looks nice. Is it as tight as it looks to get your hand in there to install the bolts ?


super red91
05-05-2008, 11:35 AM
The opening is 85mm to match the throttle body, all of the bolts are easy to get to except for the back one. Thats where someone with a small forearm comes into play ha

05-05-2008, 11:50 AM
Looks really good. The bathtub plenum is what you needed.

Have you figured out where to put the ECT, or is there a spot on that intake to do it? I went to Menards (equivalent to Lowe's or Home Depot) and got a 3/4-3/4-1/2 NPT Tee fitting, and then a 1/2-to-3/8 NPT reducer to put the ECT inline with the heater hose.

Looks like a non-jank thermostat housing would work, too.

super red91
05-05-2008, 11:55 AM
I plan on using a T fitting also. Either that or make something myself that looks cleaner...