The Chevy ones work just fine. They are exactly the same in dimensions as the SC specific ones. They are typically cheaper because the SC ones are usually a non-stocking part.
The early batches of SC specific part numbers had issues with length. This was corrected many years ago by ARP. About the only chance you have of getting some of those early bolts is if they happen to be on the shelf of your rebuilder from way back when. If you get them from Bill, or Jegs, or Summit, you'll get current stock that will be the right size. Note Bill will match prices.
There is one actual clearance issue and it is the drivers side back studs.YOu will need to set the head in place with one of those studs removed, then screw the stud in after the fact. No big deal. It is due to clearance on the Brake Master cylinder for sure on the 89-92, perhaps not an issue on the 93+
The second clearance issue occurs only if you do not clean out the bolt holes before placing the studs in them. If there is any junk in there, the junk will prevent the stud from threading all the way into the very bottom of the thread bore. On the intake manifold side studs, that isn't too big of a deal. On the exhaust side of the head, if the stud isn't all the way into the bore, you won't have room to fit the nut onto the end of the stud. The exhaust manifold gets in the way.
So just make sure the bores for the threads are clean.
Regarding torque. ARP doesn't make a different bolt that fits are application that has a higher tensile strength. I don't feel that such is needed. My guess on the overtorquing the bolts is that we are still within the engineered tolerance of the bolt, but the tollerance has been narrowed sufficiently that due to variances in manufacturing, it's possible that a ARP 7/16 stud torqued to 90 or 95 lb/ft could break.
It has been discussed here often that the low number of bolts and their positions on our heads simply do not provide sufficient clamping loads to prevent the head from moving under full boost. With the advent of the MLS gasket, we are likely seeing heads that are still lifting and/or moving, but the gasket is not breaking down and failing. For a Stock rebuild I wouldn't be afraid of the stock head gaskets with ARP studs. For a performance rebuild, MLS gaskets are the best way to go.