Aluminum rearend buildup

Mercutio

SCCoA Member
I bought a Mk8 pumpkin, and now I'm looking at a Torsen diff, Blue Moon rear cover and M-4210-C rebuild kit. Is there anything anyone can think of that I need to complete this job (other than fluids obviously)?
 
2 axle shaft seals #714569

When I had my truetrac installed, the bearings were chewed (60k). He was surprised I never heard it. Lots of rubber and insulation between dif and driver.
 
I bought a Mk8 pumpkin, and now I'm looking at a Torsen diff, Blue Moon rear cover and M-4210-C rebuild kit. Is there anything anyone can think of that I need to complete this job (other than fluids obviously)?

Why arent you looking into a eaton detroit tru-trac, After some searching thats the one I am going for. Torsens seem to have some defects lately. i posted some links in my No Hop thread.
 
I don't think they work for ours. Something about the ones for the Mustangs isn't correct, if I remember right.

Actually they're made specifically for our cars. I haven't actually tried one, but I've seen them and they appear to be a quality piece.

Duffy, thanks for the link. I'll need some of those, but I had planned on leaving the half shafts attached to the knuckles and just unbolting the knuckles from the control arms. That method seemed to work fine when I put in the FRPP pumpkin in my LX.

Ricardo, I have a Truetrac in my LX and in the 9-inch in my 57. They work just fine, but I just thought I'd give the Torsen a try this time around. I hadn't heard about problems with them but I'll check it out.
 
Ricardo, I have a Truetrac in my LX and in the 9-inch in my 57. They work just fine, but I just thought I'd give the Torsen a try this time around. I hadn't heard about problems with them but I'll check it out.

Not sure if it's still available (and it was really expensive), but Quaife used to offer a Torsen-style diff for our cars (well Cobra Mustangs) that was made entirely of forged parts and came with a lifetime warranty. I suspect it's not available anymore since I seem to recall it costing 2 to 4 times more than the Torsen.
 
I don't think they work for ours. Something about the ones for the Mustangs isn't correct, if I remember right.

From what I last read is that they were having issues with the older ones fitting teh Cobras possably. The newest design alledgedly fits all 8.8 irs now
 
Will, if you're changing the diff. carrier bearings, just be aware that the race for those is not the same as the ones for the iron housing. Ford p/n F3LZ 4222 AA, don't have the industry number for them, sorry.


cheers
Ed N.
 
Actually they're made specifically for our cars. I haven't actually tried one, but I've seen them and they appear to be a quality piece.

Duffy, thanks for the link. I'll need some of those, but I had planned on leaving the half shafts attached to the knuckles and just unbolting the knuckles from the control arms. That method seemed to work fine when I put in the FRPP pumpkin in my LX.

Ricardo, I have a Truetrac in my LX and in the 9-inch in my 57. They work just fine, but I just thought I'd give the Torsen a try this time around. I hadn't heard about problems with them but I'll check it out.

Hope you have better luck unbolting the knuckles then I am having. I am in the process of pulling my diff for a good stock rebuild. Pretty much every nut and bolt other then the lugnuts are fighting me the whole way through. Heat every nut up just to break it loose. Will need to air hammer the bolts themselves out of their 19 year old home! Slowly I'm working through everything. Figured I better just take every nut and bolt off possible at this point so if I need to work on the suspension again someday it doesn't fight me so hard. Good luck in doing yours.

Chris
 
Ricardo, I have a Truetrac in my LX and in the 9-inch in my 57. They work just fine, but I just thought I'd give the Torsen a try this time around. I hadn't heard about problems with them but I'll check it out.

Well if you want some reading check out SVTPerformance.com, Thats where I am getting my read sources on them. Seems like they dont like slicks and lots of power. But let us know what you find.
 
Make sure you use the FORD Front Snout seal. The aftermarket ones don't work correctly. They are too tight on the front plate and don't allow you to properly torque the front nut and the crush sleeve.
 
Will,

What's the advantage of the Blue Moon rear cover over the stock one, and do you have any pictures of it ?

David

http://www.atomicperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=2126

It's substantially beefier than the stock cover and should probably eliminate the need for the external steel girdle. It also has a fill hole AND drain hole for fluid, so it should make servicing the rearend a bit easier.

BTW Blue Moon/Control Freak are two sides of the same company.
 
The advantage of the blue moon cover is that it preloads the carrier bearing caps...So when you shock the rear and the diff and ring gear naturally want out...The preloading of the caps helps it all stay in place that much better..Nothing new here. I have in the past snapped bearing caps basically throwing ring gear and all off kilter. Its a knockoff of the TA rear end girdle that has been copied by so many
 
CFK-CF-804.jpg





This might be a bad picture. But where does the rear mount connect to this cover?




reardiffmount.jpg
 
Exactly, that picture is a dead-on rear view so the rear mount appears flat. I have seen the piece in person at the Control Freak factory, so trust me, it has a rear IRS mount setup just like the factory piece.
 
Okay, I read up on the Torsen issue. I'm sufficiently convinced they're problematic that I think I'll be going with a Truetrac or maybe an Auburn Racer diff. Both are cheaper than the Torsen anyway.
 
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