Road Racing Parts

[f1rocco]

Just wondering for those out there racing some road courses....What seems to be a good starting points for gears cams brakes tire size etc....I want to get into this alittle in 08 and probably much more serious for 09....I know all road courses are different but whats a good spot to start for mods.....Not looking to win...Just looking to be mid pack......Not looking for anyone to give up Secrets...Ball park as all......

Ive got the SC 5speed..

Thanks

F1

[THE BIRDMAN]

I'd say a brake upgrade for sure like maybe just an upgrade to cobra brakes front and rear.Our cars are heavy and the stock brakes are dinky.



Jay

[f1rocco]

I know where theres a 2001 or newer Cobra....I think....Its so totaled Im not too sure...Pretty sure though....Ive searched here on the Mustang caliper swap and then seen something about per 93 SCs are different and 01 mustangs are bolt in....I guess Im sorta lost.....What else is new though...lol

Thanks

F1

[bigpoppa822]

I'd say go for gears, something like a 3.55, definitely a brake upgrade, and some simple power mods like a good CAI and an exhaust. An intercooler upgrade would help a lot as well, seeing as road racing is obviously longer lasting than drag racing.

[THE BIRDMAN]

I know where theres a 2001 or newer Cobra....I think....Its so totaled Im not too sure...Pretty sure though....Ive searched here on the Mustang caliper swap and then seen something about per 93 SCs are different and 01 mustangs are bolt in....I guess Im sorta lost.....What else is new though...lol

Thanks

F1



Yeah if you have 93 or newer front spindles any mustang brakes will bolt right up including aftermarket upgrades like 14 inchers etc.But you'll also have to do the mustang hub swap for the rotors lug pattern to match up or have them drilled to the t-bird bolt pattern.Just do a search in the tech area for mustang hub swap.


Jay

[f1rocco]

Sorry forgot to mention I have an 89 5speed

[Mercutio]

My advice is that before you change a thing on the car you research the various road racing classes. Are you looking to just do open track sessions in which there are multiple cars on track but no winners, no losers, and you're just out there for track time? In that case you can do about anything you want to your car. But if you're looking to do wheel to wheel road racing with NASA, SCCA or someone else you'll want to pick a class and build your car to conform to the rules rather than build an SC that's modified into a class where it would be nothing but a rolling roadblock for the faster cars. Check www.nasaproracing.com and www.scca.org for more information on rules and classes.

[f1rocco]

My advice is that before you change a thing on the car you research the various road racing classes. .


Agreed.....

Id be happy now with just open class driving.....A few of my buddies have Mustangs and rent the Watkins Glen track for the day....More like a test and tune at safe speeds and passing only on straightaways....I think its like $200 per car........I love cornering......Hitting the right line at the fastest possible speed...........Ahhhh I just love that stuff.....

Maybe in a couple years I could get another SC for strictly racing....I doubt it though.......But maybe if someone here decided to get rid of a race SC that was in well used shape......


Thanks

F1

[Mercutio]

In that case, I'd recommend the following:

-A GOOD helmet. Not one of those $50 autocross open face helmets. Get a full-faced helmet from a reputable company ie Shoei, Impact Racing, bell or Simpson. I have a Simpson Super Voyager and I love it. It cost $400, but I figure my head is worth it. Check for the latest Snell ratings.

-Aluminum driveshaft. Depending on the track an SC can easily exceed the safe driveshaft speed (~105-110). I've seen a driveshaft explode. It's not pretty at all and will cut through the floor like butter.

-Make sure your ball joints and bushings are all in good shape.

-Good tires are the single best upgrade you can make. Buy the best tires you can possibly afford, and if you can afford slicks and another set of wheels, do it. You won't regret it.

-A basic 4-point roll bar and 4 or 5-point harness isn't necessary but would not be a bad idea. Most racing seats won't work with regular 3-point harnesses, so don't worry about a seat until you have a roll bar. If you do buy a seat, check for two things: first, FIA certification. IMO a must for a race seat. Second, if you plan to use a 5-point harness make sure the seat has a pass-through for the anti-submarine belt (the one that goes between your legs). A friend of mine is a Porsche Club of America track day instructor and he says PCA won't accept a seat in which the anti-sub belt passes over, not through, the front of the seat. Other organizations likely have similar rules.

-Suspension Techniques lowering springs. Why that brand? Because they're linear, so you at least know what your spring rate is at all points of suspension compression.

-Koni Shocks

93-up spindles. If you're on a budget Mustang GT brakes can be quite good if you opt for good pads (ie Ferodo, Hawk, etc.), but Cobra brakes would be better if you have the budget for it.

-Since you have an 89 with the nice, big sway bars I'd say leave those alone for now. Drive a few events on them until you decide whether the car's balance suits your driving style. If you need to make adjustments after you've got some road course seat time, then consider the Addco bars.

[f1rocco]

Thanks.....

What gears and tire sizes are being raced with.....5 speed of course.....Not sure about going to 3.08 or 3.07 ratio to 3.55..My mustang buddy says he is running 3.73........2400 foot should be around the longest straight way speed Id be looking at....

Watkins Glen

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/2a/Watkins_Glen_International_Circuit_Map.png/250px-Watkins_Glen_International_Circuit_Map.png

Thanks Again

J

[fast Ed]

I've run Watkins Glen in my 5-speed car a few times. With stock gears, you'll only need 4th, but with 3.27, you'll be grabbing 5th coming out of the Esses. And it will pull out of the other corners better. I actually have 3.55 in mine now, and am hoping to get back down to the Glen in August this year to instruct ... haven't been down since 2003, I miss the Esses!!

Will's advice is excellent. Most people will find the Cobra brakes adequate, I've had those on mine since 2002, and am pleased with their performance on open-track days. Very little fade, and good life out of them. If I was competing with the car, I would consider the 2000 Cobra R Brembo calipers as an upgrade.


cheers
Ed N.

[f1rocco]

August I was going to sign up for the Glen....Do PM me more info and if theres an opening with your teaching.......I was going to go through Phoenixcmr...


Thanks

J

[tbirdtess]

Hello

I need some racing shocks for my car.

Hey Ed send me a picture of your Koni shocks. Under the hood.
Does the adjuster knob come off?

Paul

[fast Ed]

Paul, I don't have a big enough underhood shot to shot the detail of the shocks. Basically there is a tab at the top of each shock, which is engaged by the plastic adjusting knob tool that is provided with them. I just keep it in my console when not using it.

The shocks are infintely adjustable from full soft to full hard, about 2-1/2 turns total. I find that even an 1/8 of a turn is noticeable. You could probably special order stiffer valving from Koni if needed for your track car.


cheers
Ed N.