Another no start thread

quicktsi

Registered User
Okay I will join the cool crowd of no start. Everything was going well after changing the cam synchronizer. The car battery has been on the way out recently. I drove the car Sunday night to make sure everything was good, no problems except the tach was still dropping out. Monday the car started fine and drove to work. Drove from work and stopped on the way home to get gas and it was a short drive. Needless to say I had to get jump start. Headed back to work for a training. The car set for 2 hours. After the training it fired up on the first try, and ran for a second and then died. Tried to jump start to no avail.

Here is what I have tried so far. Tried replacing the the green relay in the trunk under the cut off switch. That did not change anything. I replaced the battery with a new Optima red top, now it cranks like crazy but no start. I keep looking for this fog light relay to swap with the eec relay that others have mentioned. I think I am figuring out from another thread the eec relay is in the icrm. Where is the fog light relay located? I never hear the fuel pump at all. After each attempt I am not getting any fuel pressure or smell when I check the valve next to the supercharger. I am really starting to get annoyed with this car as I have had to work on it every day since Saturday.
I will read up how to test the fuel pump. What are the two relays on the passenger side by the firewall? I tried unplugging them and replugging them to no avail.

What am I missing? I am trying to eliminate everything before I need to siphon 17 gallons of gas out of the car to replace the fuel pump.
 
try this get a friend to come over,un hook air tube at throtle body get a can of carb cleaner have friend crank while spraying CARB CLEANER into throbody if it cranks keep spraying a few seconds,then stop if car dies try again if it cranks while spraying stop if car dies fuel pump bad.only use carb cleaner.
 
Don't throw parts at it.. pull codes and see if they can give you a lead. Don't drain gas, test fuel pressure at the rail... or listen for the pump. You can listen for it at the hump where the rear seat is. A short section of a broom handle or a long piece of solid metal, such as a screwdriver or wrench, makes a good stethoscope. :cool:

Also, get a volt meter to test your alternator and a slow charger to charge the battery. You want 14Volts (thereabouts) across the battery terminals with the engine running.
 
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No fuel pressure at the rail. You can not here the fuel pump prime or run. Prior to this I had tested the output of the alternator to be 14.4 volts.
 
My no start problem turned out to be the DIS module. We unplugged a plug wire at the coil pack and laid it so the contact was next to but not touching the post so it would spark to it and it started up but would just barely run. I had already replaced the crank sensor to no avail and I had fuel pressure.
 
Better make sure you put dieletric grease under the DIS module......

Ooopppsss sorry... couldn't resist.

ps: me just stirring the pot :D
 
If you have no fuel pressure, then you just narrowed down your problem to the fuel pump circuit. Start with checking if there is voltage at the fuel pump relay to energize the fuel pump. If there is, then crawl under the car and probe the wires to check for power to the pump harness.

If you have 12v going there, then the pump is bad or the connector at the pump failed.

If you don't have power at the relay, you'll need to post back.
 
Dont know if the SC has this set up or not, but on a friends Crown vic, had same prob no fuel pump. Turned out to be a smaller ground wire just off the battery was bad that went to pump. Worked fine after we repaired the wire. Just a thought.
 
Here is a list of all the things a friend and I tried tonight.

1. Fuel pump relay fuse checked good and voltage at distribution block
2. EEC relay fuse checked good
3. Opened IRCM to check EEC. You can here the relays clicking
4. Jumped the EEC and had power with the key on #8 and #24
5. Checked red power wire at inertia switch for voltage, checked out 11.8 volts
6. Checked white wire out of inertia switch for voltage, checked out 11.8 volts
7. Checked voltage on tan wire at fuel pump relay and 11.8 volts with key on
8. Checked voltage on blk/ylw wire at fuel pump relay and 11.8 volts shown

It appears I have tested everything I can. From what I have read the only thing left to check is the wiring at the fuel pump harness, and or a fuel dead fuel pump.
 
dead fuel pump,i know you guys dont care for me or my opinion,but i do know what im talking about.
Dont' care for ya?? Nahhh.. we luv ya!! Ya noogee head! :rolleyes:

At this point everything seems to indicate the fuel pump is bad. But with the fuel pump being a pain of a job (yes I've done it), specially with the tank full of gas, you want to run power directly to it before pulling it out. Don't rule out wiring problems. :cool:
 
fuel pump

you can ground out one of the pins on the eec test plug on the pass. side under the hood and the fuel pump will run all the time with the key on if the pump and wiring is good. i cant remember which pin, but someone here knows, i learned this trick her no fuel pressure, no start.
 
I started the tear down tonight, by siphoning the gas out of the car. It really sucked since I had just filled the car with 17 gallons of gas. I put 12 gallons in to my truck and 5 gallons in the wifes car. I ordered a 255HP pump tonight from APE.

Tomorrow I will get the tanked dropped and remove the pump. I will also be inspecting the fuel pump harness. I will try direct power to the pump once I get it removed to confirm it is dead.

Hopefully I will have it all ready to go and just have to put it back together after work next week.
 
you should have saved the 5 gallons of gas to put back in your car,who knowes what gas is going to be in a week.:eek::D:D just playing with ya.
 
Okay here are some pictures from todays removal and inspection.

Top side of the fuel pump harness.
Picture858.jpg

Bottom side of the fuel pump harness.
Picture857.jpg

The sock appears to have some type of metal flakes stuck in it
Picture860.jpg

Top of the fuel tank not sure if the stain are from removal or not.
Picture859.jpg


I ended up cleaning the outside and flushing the inside of the fuel tank. I pulled the vent and will be replacing it while I am it. Now I need to start sourcing a fuel pump harness. The harness was intact, but as soon as I touched the area in the picture it just crumbled. I also tried connecting the fuel pump to 12 volts and it was a no go. I did notice that the tank had been rubbing part of the body in a few areas.
 
Take a check at the local auto parts place to see if that connector is available in the aftermarket. I may be. Otherwise a u-pull lot should help you find one. Same on every MN12 tBird or cougar. Probably Mark VIII as well. A lot of these types of connectors are now showing up in the aftermarket.

Fuel pump kit should come with a new sock filter, and a length of hose and two clamps to replace the stock baffel.

I believe the two main SC vendors both carry the kits in 190lph, 255lph and 255lph High pressure.
 
yes you can get the conector,pics,like theese make you wonder who thought electrick fuel pump and gas would get along together so well?
 
So the trip to the parts store for a fuel pump harness was a no go. I ended up going to Pull A Part. I took a gamble on a Cougar and dropped the tank and scored on the very first try. I also snagged a few relays, inertia switch and coolant level sensor for the VMM. All the parts out the door, for less than 20 dollars. The only part I lack now is the vent. Anybody have the part # for the vent on top of the fuel tank?

The part looks brand new
Picture865.jpg


Picture864.jpg
 
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