Trunk Mount Battery....what size?

fastsc92

Registered User
Well I got all my wiring done on my battery relocation last week and now its time to fab up a box to put it in. I'm not going to go with an Optima due to cost reasons and I really don't need it for my application.

I was originally going to build a box to the specs of a Taylor or Jegs box which fits a group 24 battery. However, since I'm building it from scratch, I can use whatever size battery I want to. I had a group 58 in there, but what are my other options? What cranking amps should I be looking for since the battery is in the back? I ran #2 ulta fine strand welding cable up to the starter solenoid, and I have no electrical devices in the car other than simple gauges if that helps any.
 
you can save some weight and get a tiny battery from a little econobox. Can't remember which one, but there is a small OEM battery that has decent power to start the car, and will run it, but it's really small.
 
its already moved into the trunk, so the weight isn't really an issue since its over the pass rear axle. Plus, the length of cable must have an affect.....
 
I dont know squat.....

But Id still go for a big battery since it appears you race her.....Nothing worse then a hot motor and a battery that cant crank.....Ive got something similar to a military ammo box Im waiting to install for mine.....I work as an electrician and just last week got ahold of a boat load of heavy guage wire.....

F1
 
i actually got this cable for cheap...i think i paid $38 for #2 cable.....23 feet of it. Its called trystar welding cable
 
i guess the point i'm trying to get accross...is that I dont want to spend $160 or even $100 on a battery for a car that gets roughly 1500 miles per year. I'd like to find a normal battery such as an exide for around $60, I'm just wondering what grouping size and what cranking amps. Or does it not even matter the group size as long as it puts out the amps?
 
Cant remember what one it was but I boughr a 3 year war. 850 cranking amp battery for $72+ from advance auto.........Or if ya wanna go cheap.....Head out to the junkyard and get a big boy for $20...Bring a voltmeter and test it in the car you drove in........
 
Get the lowest cold cranking amp and highest reserve capacity you can get. Cold cranking amps only matter if you're gonna be starting the car when it is below 32 degrees. Reserve capacity tells you the density of the plates, basically how long you can crank for before the battery is exhausted.

Find a balance, as reserve capacity usually includes cold cranking. If your miles are that low make sure you invest in a battery tender brand battery charger to keep your battery alive when it's not being used for extended periods.
 
The Lincoln LS has a lead acid Battery in the trunk
The battery for this application has a vent tube that lets the explosive :eek: gasses from the battery get out of the trunk.

something to keep in mind.
 
Why not run a deep cycle? Igot 1 from wal-mart that has lasted me 4+years and still works like new. Granted I use it in a car trailer for the winch, but I take poor care of it and only charge it when I'm going to need it. Cost about $70.
 
The battery for this application has a vent tube that lets the explosive :eek: gasses from the battery get out of the trunk.

something to keep in mind.

....I believe we are all aware of that...hense the sealed box which complies with NHRA rules for "In Lieu of Firewall"
 
Why not run a deep cycle? Igot 1 from wal-mart that has lasted me 4+years and still works like new. Granted I use it in a car trailer for the winch, but I take poor care of it and only charge it when I'm going to need it. Cost about $70.

The only thing with the deep cycle is the plate size, hence many amps for long periods. It can be used just fine for a while but they (the deep cycle battery:D)last longer and better with just a trickle charger VS the constant potential charger (alternator)
just and FYI


-Tony
 
The only thing with the deep cycle is the plate size, hence many amps for long periods. It can be used just fine for a while but they (the deep cycle battery:D)last longer and better with just a trickle charger VS the constant potential charger (alternator)
just and FYI


-Tony

True, but if he only puts 1500 miles a year on it, then its not driven a whole lot, therefore not a constant charge :p
 
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