Engine assembly going too smoothly?

DougD

Registered User
A brief bit of background.....

Bought a used motor with 58k miles. I thought....heh heh heh...I was getting a motor that was good enough to drop in and go. So did the seller, I guess. It turned out to be quite a different story. I'm going through the motor and doing a freshen-up: rings, bearings, oil pump, timing chain, valve grind, etc. but no machine work to speak of. Anyhow......

Have you ever put togther a motor and worried because things were going too well? That's where I'm at with this "freshen up" project.

There is virtually no cylinder wear. Piston-to-wall clearance is right at .004" for all slugs. All my rings are fine with end gaps spot-on....not a single mis-packaged ring in the bunch. All there bearing clearances are at .002" except the rear main at 0025". Conn rod side clearance is fine on all six, even with the one rod coming from a different motor. The crank is fine....no damage despite several bearings showing some copper....caught it just in the nick of time.

The entire reciproacting assembly is done and I can't remember having one go together so easily.

Had a valve job done and the machine shop reported everywas was "A-OK"....no cracks, no burned valves, no nothin'.

So far the only glitch, besides being waaaay over budget, was that bent rod....no doubt a hydro-locked piston due to the blown head gasket. Maybe that's the bit of trouble I've been looking for and I've already gone through it?

Well, sorry for the ramble.....I'm just trying to play reverse psychology with the fates. If I don't worry, something bad will happen. If I do worry, everything will be OK

Thanks for listening

DD
 
After each time I finished a step I was wondering what did I screw up. I had put on and pulled off the oil pan twice because I would remember something I couldn't be sure I checked. But I had.

Biggest goof was struggling to get the crankshaft seal on the timing cover. Very tight. So I got smart and headed the cover in the oven at 250 and then cooled the seal in the freezer. Took it into the garage, and using a proper seal installer slammed the seal into place... only problem, I put it on inside out. With the flange on the wrong side of the timing cover. Oh well, went through 3 seals, one got bent, then I got the proper seal installer, and stuck it in the wrong side. 3rd try did it.

I put the engine together. Bolted it all together, put it in the car. Hooked everything up. Turn the key and squirted a bunch of fuel into the top of the hood (left the fuel lines disconnected). Hooked that up and started the engine. It ran perfectly. Then dumped a gallon of Evans coolant onto the floor due to me forgetting to tighten a hose clamp, and not figuring it out right away.

So don't worry, you'll have plenty of chances to make a mistake or two.
 
Just take your time and it will go good, like mentioned above make sure you double check everything on the bottom end or youll have to pull the oil pan off again, Ive been there and its no fun scraping the rtv off just to put it back on again in 10min. Also once you torque something go back and redo it everynow and then since the gaskets will compress a bit. I never thought it was true, but when I did intake gaskets it took a long time to get them all to spec.
 
Yeah .. just make sure everything is to spec while its all apart .. once its together and in the car, you dont want to take it back out.
Just cross your fingers and hope it fires right up after you prime the oil system.
As long as its put back together and everthing is plugged in there is no reason why it shouldnt work.
:cool:

- Dan
 
Thanks, guys :)

At least I have time on my side. This is just a project to keep me busy for an hour or two each evening ... so I can pace myself and savor each step :)

I should be on the road in May, I reckon. Heh heh heh.

Cheers
DD
 
Last edited:
Back
Top