Positive Battery Cable

rickbtbird

Registered User
On my way home with the 95 and I make a quick stop and the battery is dead. I had to have the wife come with jumper cables. Yada Yada Yada.. the car limped home with only the current from the alternator. Ran like poo too.

So it looks like it's time to replace the positive battery cable(s). I need some advise here's, what should I order?
  1. 4 Gauge Red Battery Cable - 25 ft. Bundle. Should be enough for both cars.
  2. Copper Lugs / Eyelets 1/4'' or 5/16 or 3/8 Stud?
  3. Straight Barrel Brass Battery Terminal. There's two cables going into the positive side. What type/size?
  4. Battery Terminal Solder Slugs

Does anybody even make a stock replacement anymore?

I put the battery on charge and it's drawing 5 amps now for over two hours.
 
Does anybody even make a stock replacement anymore?

Stock length positive cable, 1990 battery terminal to solenoid [thanks to TXSC/JD] is 34.5" - Napa sells a ready made, ready to go, fit like new cable: 35" 781132 $9.49

Much better than DIY, IMHO.

I taped one end of the old one to one end of the new one and pulled the old one out...new one went right into place.

Ken
 
Last edited:
Any chance the battery terminal end is like OEM, with the cable coming in from the side?

JD

No - comes in straight. Don't recall any premade on the rack that came in from the side, sorry.

631958.jpg


I also noticed the copper cable wire on the lug end went beyond the hole, as if the lug was simply slide over a length of cable, then flattened, punched and rounded off in one motion. It wouldn't surprise me if a barrel, twice the length of one lug, is passed onto a cable length and two 'mirrored' lug ends are made in one pass.

~===||[o)(o]||===~

In any case, it's a neat trick, and one that can only insure a good current path.
 
When it rains it pours

Ok so I got the battery changed and put it in the car. It started right up and I put a voltmeeter across the battery and it's reading 12.5v. Dam I think the alternator is toast.
Also, why do I have two positive 4 gage wires going to my battery?
 
Last edited:
can anyone tell me where the 2nd cable goes? i have a 95 and i am going through the battery cable removal and replacement hoping its not the alternator................ i know the post is very old like a year but i need help now and the thread didn't go very far so hopefully someone can help me


thanks
cody
 
are your wires connected to the sylonid switch on driver fender.



His 95 like all 95's does not have a solenoid on the drivsrs side fender, it does however have two cables coming from the + battery post one of which goes to the power distribution box and the other to the starter.

Charles
 
nice exactly what i wanted to know bout to go out and replace the cable but it got dark on me so i couldn't trace it down.


next question, i have only pne battery cable looks like it could go from the power distribution block to the batt, whats the best way to get to the cable going to the starter and replace it?
thanks guys,
cody
 
and whats the best way to connect both cables together? don't have any solder(i think thats how its spelled) but i have a new battery cable with another little wire comming outta the post lug but it looks to be about 1/4 the size of the actual battery cable, any ideas?
thanks again,

cody
 
There is no good way to connect battery cables together.

You need to find a shop with a proper crimper to do that kind of work. Otherwise you need to find someone that can solder ends onto the cables that you then bolt together. You might check with a audio shop, they often deal with small gauge cables.
 
ok i have the post holder cut off and exposed cables, i could put an end on there like stock but i'm afraid the wires will be too short, the line from the power distribution box looks fine its just the starter cable in question i've been reading on the slow starting threads and they describe corrosion on the back of the starter but that wouldn't explain where my drain is that caused this to begin with so to try to fix the problem i need power to see if there is a light on or something, i think its the one under the hood but not sure
whats the best type of battery terminal to get that won't corrode up real quick this thing has a major issue with corroding up on the terminals wow gotta love a supercoupe!!!! :)

any ideas would help
thanks
cody
 
Last edited:
Fast corrosion can be due to a alternator over charging a battery, or a battery that is not working properly and thus overcharges one or more cells. Excess corrosion is due to electrolyte in the battery boiling, and the hydrogen gas venting around the battery, corroding the electrical connections.

Remy Battery makes some very nice copper cast compression style battery terminals and other types of ends. These don't require solder or crimp connections. You strip the battery cable to the proper length, insert into the fitting with a compression ring, and tighten things down to retain the cable and create the connection. Takes about a week for the order to be fulfilled.
http://www.remybattery.com/Departme...ugs-and-Terminals/Compression-Connectors.aspx
CompressionSC.jpg
 
nice thanks alot mike appreciate all that you have shared with me now i just need to try to get under there and see whats up with it think o'reily's will have this part or can it only be found online?

thanks again
cody
 
Auto parts stores only have the solder or crimp on lugs. They will have solder, and you use a torch to heat the lug up good, stick the solder in there so it is all wet and flowing and then you use a pliers to stick it on the end of the stripped cable.

The Remy stuff, you might find if there was a call for it in your area, but otherwise you'll need to order them online.
 
Back
Top