No Fan W/ Elect Waterpump

Miller

Registered User
I was having a problem with my fan not turning on. I put a spare ECT sensor in, and heated it up with a heatgun and the fan came right on.. let it cool went off, heated it, back on... that tells me the water isnt flowing to the sensor....I have a remote pump w/ a blockoff plate... Anybody have any ideas what I need to do to make this work. I bled it really good i dont think i have any air in there...
 
I wasnt running a thermostat with it on my car, and I had a fan on a switch. The pump def worked but like prev stated it was a biznatch to get the air out. Did you loosen the allen on the pump to let air squirt out? Lazzo or Randy Baker or Leitem should be able to shed some light.
 
Randy cant get his car to stop overheating. Kevin put a divider between the two sides of the motor... I have a gutted t-stat... I was gona njust rewire the fan, but if the water isnt flowing to that sensor then its not flowing threw motor all to well then im thinkin...I loosened the allenheads, yes..

and did you have a fan on a switch because you couldnt get it on otherwise ?
 
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Randy cant get his car to stop overheating. Kevin put a divider between the two sides of the motor... I have a gutted t-stat... I was gona njust rewire the fan, but if the water isnt flowing to that sensor then its not flowing threw motor all to well then im thinkin...I loosened the allenheads, yes..

and did you have a fan on a switch because you couldnt get it on otherwise ?

I remember the stock fan kicked on a few times, but not like it used to with the stock waterpump. That has me wondering too. Maybe Kevin is on to something with the divider idea. Maybe it is loosing velocity in the blockoff plate area? :confused: I know both outlets on the water pump flow out the same way. And shoot like mini fire hoses so it def flows good amount of water.

I put a jegs aluminum radiator in it and a flexalite 2950 cfm fan (run it all the time) at the same time. I drove it for an hour on the highway, and it didnt overheat just before I sold it to Damon(You). I figured I needed money for parts more than the electric waterpump.
 
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Iv looked into that already, but thats not my problem. I know I can re-wire it to work independently from the car.
Im worried that wiring it up to run anyways, will just bandaid a problem that I should be paying attention to.
 
One side has got to have more of a restriction then the other to cause such an issue to occur. A divider would force the one side to work one half while the other side works the other if thast the case
 
Randy cant get his car to stop overheating. Kevin put a divider between the two sides of the motor... I have a gutted t-stat... I was gona njust rewire the fan, but if the water isnt flowing to that sensor then its not flowing threw motor all to well then im thinkin...I loosened the allenheads, yes..

and did you have a fan on a switch because you couldnt get it on otherwise ?

I only did the machine work on your style electric water pump. I did
not do the design work, or set-up or install, this was done by
Dave Dalke & Gary Kuhns.I would not use or run that style
of electric waterpump on the street or track.

I have two of my own design electric waterpumps. I have tested
and they work just great.

My over heating problems had nothing to do with the style
of water pump that I was using. A stock belt driven pump was on
my car during over heating and the death of my motor.

My over heating and the death of my motor started on the dyno
from detonation after switching from a Deoblo chip to a SCT chip..
I believe because I had a MPIII that was not acceptable at the
time by the tuner. Since he was selling A/R blowers.

My motor damage, I don't believe was done on purpose. But my
motor received damage because of the tuner, because he wanted
to lower the RWHP of my power plant, to discredit any power gains
that a MPIII was able to produce. By doing this I received damage
to my motor from detonation.!!! by accident by tuner.

After chip change my gas mileage dropped from 21 miles per gallon
to around 3 miles per gallon. I tried to get a retune before I left
the dyno. But it was refused to do the job then right. The dyno-
shootout was held the next day, so I was not competitive. And
the RWHP I was running with the deoblo chip would have won hands
down. So I see this detuning of my motor, not only caused damage
to my motor but also cause the 2005 SC/XR7 Oklahoma dyno-shootout
turn-out to be rigged. I finally got a retune two days later,
but the damage was already done. I could not reinstall my Deoblo
chip because it was removed from my car with dyno sheets the
day of the dyno shootout.


And I do not care who likes my post or who does not like
my post. So save your breath and typing skills.(Dave N.
& the rest of the cover up wrecking crew) So as to continue
the cover up for Mr Dalkes dirty tricks, to discredit other
vendors parts. And no care in the world of whose motor
receives damage to prove his point..


Thanks
Randy
 
I only did the machine work on your style electric water pump. I did
not do the design work, or set-up or install, this was done by
Dave Dalke & Gary Kuhns.I would not use or run that style
of electric waterpump on the street or track.

Randy that was your block off plate and it was installed according to your instructions and with your guidance as I recall. However, since I was not personally involved in the installation and the car never really ran long enough to get hot, I really can't say a lot about how well it did or didn't work. The only time I saw Gary's car running with this system was when it blew a headgasket on the dyno. And just to be clear, I was not tuning the car at the time, that was being handled by Brian Herron.
My over heating and the death of my motor started on the dyno
from detonation after switching from a Deoblo chip to a SCT chip..
I believe because I had a MPIII that was not acceptable at the
time by the tuner. Since he was selling A/R blowers.
No, I believe you told all of us that you had a boost leak on the dyno which you fixed at the race track two days later. Those are your words not mine or anyone else's. Please read your own words:
Randy N Connie from 2005 after the OKC Shootout said:
My highest RWHP pull I have gottin was 280.+. (LEAN)
The chip was changed to a SCT. Then the car was tuned
to car 273.7 RWHP.At the time of last tune,I had a boost leak
that I found later.

If running a richer AFR and less timing (ie. a safe and responsible tune vs. lean and detonating) resulted in only a 7rwhp power drop I can live with that.

But now you say:

Randy N Connie quote from today said:
My motor damage, I don't believe was done on purpose. But my
motor received damage because of the tuner, because he wanted
to lower the RWHP of my power plant, to discredit any power gains
that a MPIII was able to produce. By doing this I received damage
to my motor from detonation.!!! by accident by tuner.
Now I'm confused. By your own words I richened the tune which would make it safer, yet now you claim I detonated your motor. I'd like to know how reducing timing and adding fuel for safety sake results in detonation that killed your motor and still made less power than a lean and aggressive tune as the car had before. Then again you don't suppose there is a chance that during all your "6000rpm+" testing that you did on your own (that you posted about and told me about in person later) which was all done prior to the OKC tune with the Diablo chip (which you admitted was LEAN) could have had an affect here?

You have also repeatedly admitted that your car had a mechanical issue (boost leak) during the tune but now it is somehow the tuner's fault that when you fixed the mechanical problem (and didn't allow your tuner to recheck or change anything) the car had issues. I don't understand this.

You were disappointed with the power numbers from the car(as were many others at the OKC Shootout) but we both looked at the AFR and agreed that with the SCT chip it was a safe and responsible value (mid 11's). We also agreed to add timing to look for some more power but the motor did not make more power with more timing and I smelled antifreeze which I brought to your attention. You dismissed it as a leaking radiator cap but I declined to add more timing because I did not want to hurt your motor. That was the end of your dyno tuning. You wanted more power but I declined to add any more timing because I felt that the motor was already lifting the heads. Once again in your own words:
Randy N Connie from 2005 after the OKC Shootout said:
My highest RWHP pull I have gottin was 280.+. (LEAN)
The chip was changed to a SCT. Then the car was tuned
to car 273.7 RWHP.At the time of last tune,I had a boost leak
that I found later.

When I found and fixed my boost leak.I knocked .350 tenths of
Connies 1/4 mile time.
It should be noted here that after "fixing" this boost leak you REFUSED to allow me to re-tune the vehicle and it should also be noted that correcting a boost leak WILL cause a lean condition (again) which you have never allowed me to look into yet you have proceeded to complain ever since.

After chip change my gas mileage dropped from 21 miles per gallon
to around 3 miles per gallon.
You did complain about the car using a large (but unspecified) amount of fuel on one trip across the city but nothing was ever found to confirm that there was any cause for this. I did extensive datalogging of the car after receiving this complaint and found nothing to substantiate your observation. Your mileage on the trip home from OKC was clearly not 3mpg.
I tried to get a retune before I left
the dyno. But it was refused to do the job then right.
If memory serves me I declined to put the car back on the dyno because we had already explored the limits of how much power it was going to make without lifting the heads. I don't remember all the exact details as this was almost 3 years ago but you were never "refused" any services. There is also a limit to how many things I could do that day but I did take time after the dyno closed to work with your car on the street. You aren't the only one who was down on power, everyone was complaining about that and I had to deal with each one personally. My apologies that I was not able to do everything you wanted.
The dyno-
shootout was held the next day, so I was not competitive. And
the RWHP I was running with the deoblo chip would have won hands
down.
More than likely the Diablo chip would have detonated your motor because as you said, it was "LEAN". I gave you a responsible tune. The Diablo tune was not responsible and your motor probably would not have lasted through the competition.
So I see this detuning of my motor, not only caused damage
to my motor but also cause the 2005 SC/XR7 Oklahoma dyno-shootout
turn-out to be rigged.
One more time just in case anyone is not paying attention. The "detuning" that you talk about included adding fuel so that it would not be "LEAN" as you yourself said, and secondly, it included pulling some timing so that the PINGING would go away. A great dyno number on an inertia dyno doesn't always relate to reliable power on the street, especially if it involves detonation and lean AFR's. Your SCT chip turned a lower power number but when as you say, the motor was in borderline detonation already, there isn't a whole lot that can be done other than to provide a responsible AFR and timing curve.
I finally got a retune two days later,
but the damage was already done.
I find it confusing that you admit that the Diablo tune was lean and yet you complain that you lost power with the SCT chip. Isn't it normal to lose a little power when running richer? Wouldn't you prefer a safer AFR when running high boost? I also commanded a timing curve that was responsible for an MPIII running 20% OD (on 91 octane fuel I might add) as compared to a more aggressive curve intended for lower boost levels and better fuel as your Diablo chip was and you say I purposely detuned your car to make MP look bad. :confused: Your car ran well at the races and even when you finally did replace the headgaskets in your own words "there was nothing wrong with them". Do I need to go dig up that post as well?
I could not reinstall my Deoblo
chip because it was removed from my car with dyno sheets the
day of the dyno shootout.
No one rigged the Dyno-Shootout. That is a very slanderous thing to say. In fact what we did was invite Charles Warner down to participate in the Dyno Shootout and I gave Charles free reign to prove the worth of the MPIII blower that day. I personally paid for 3 hours of dyno time during which he and Dan Sly worked on the MPIII trying to demonstrate a power increase over your MPII. In the end, and without any interference from me, the most they were able to gain from the blower was around 10rwhp. Nothing was rigged, it just was what it was.
And I do not care who likes my post or who does not like
my post. So save your breath and typing skills.(Dave N.
& the rest of the cover up wrecking crew) So as to continue
the cover up for Mr Dalkes dirty tricks, to discredit other
vendors parts. And no care in the world of whose motor
receives damage to prove his point..
It's nice to know my efforts were appreciated. In addition to all the responsibilities of running this event I also did my very best to meet the tuning demands of each person who signed up. I tuned your car on the dyno, I worked with it after the dyno session, and after everything I tried to do that day for everyone else, I was back in your car again at 1am in the morning road testing it making sure that your tune was accurate and safe. As far as I know the car ran perfectly when I was done. After all of that do you want to tell the whole club how much you paid for this 4+ hours of tuning? HOW ABOUT NOT A SINGLE RED CENT. NADA. ZIP. NOTHING. I did all of it for free because I thought we were friends and I felt bad about the way things went. I had really hoped that your car would dominate Stock class and I was as disappointed as you were. I tried everything I could to accommodate you and charged you nothing for my efforts. So now here we are almost 3 years later and you are still bitching about your tune and what a terrible person I am. All I ever did was try to help you and this is the thanks I get.

Honestly Randy, I highly doubt that anyone wants to hear about any of this any more. I have nothing to hide and I did the best I could with what I had to work with at the time. If you want to remain bitter and make up reasons to disparage me then go ahead I suppose. I'm not afraid of (or bothered by) anything you might say here. I am an honest person, I have nothing to hide, and I do what I can for anyone and everyone who asks.

My apologies to everyone else who has endured this. I have been avoiding Randy's posts for some time now because I really feel that people do not want to read this but there comes a time when enough is enough. People have the right to hear my side of the story.

David
 
No prob Dave, thanks for setting the record straight.
I know how people are over the years and years of reading posts and personally meeting you and seeing what you did for my friend Jon and Bill McNeil and countless others, I would have to say that you are a very trustworthy and the most knowledgable person on SCs and don't deserve the kind of disrespect and insults/slander by Randy.


As far as the water pump goes I got it from Gary, and Installed it, had trouble at first figured it was air related; but was able to drive to Carlisle(1hr 45 min) and in town, but I only drove the car <2000 mi in the last 3 going on 4 years. Blew hgs at the track and am involved in a build up now.

Mark
 
And I do not care who likes my post or who does not like
my post. So save your breath and typing skills.(Dave N.
& the rest of the cover up wrecking crew) So as to continue
the cover up for Mr Dalkes dirty tricks, to discredit other
vendors parts. And no care in the world of whose motor
receives damage to prove his point..

Randy,

Please leave my name out of your horsepower conspiracy fantasy.

David
 
WHOOOOOOOOOAH NELLY. I asked nothing involving Mr Dalkey here. I just asked bout my waterpump...Judging by the lovely history this pump has had, I think its safe to say that very soon I will be takin some shizzys off, and putting the stock pump back on... This waterpump = the blown HG's. I shalst put it on my shelf and use it to make a waterfountain or something some day. oh well....waste of the money
 
I apologize for the novel. I'd prefer to drop the entire issue entirely and just get on with relevant things.

I believe that the electric pump can work well but I'm not convinced about the block off plate. I never was convince about that but I don't have a solution. I think perhaps running the electric pump as a pusher in series would eliminate cavitation and the HP loss from spinning the stock pump as well as greatly increase overall system flow.

You might also contact Mike Tuck (Super XR7) about making a housing on which to bolt the universal Meziere pump. I'm not sure the flange would be the same but I know for a fact that Mike's design does work excellent.
 
Randy that was your block off plate and it was installed according to your instructions and with your guidance as I recall. However, since I was not personally involved in the installation and the car never really ran long enough to get hot, I really can't say a lot about how well it did or didn't work. The only time I saw Gary's car running with this system was when it blew a headgasket on the dyno. And just to be clear, I was not tuning the car at the time, that was being handled by Brian Herron.

( I followed Gary and your dirrections on what Gary wanted machined.)

No, I believe you told all of us that you had a boost leak on the dyno which you fixed at the race track two days later. Those are your words not mine or anyone else's. Please read your own words:

(I checked for boost leaks at the dyno, all clamps were tight,the loss of boost
was talk about between me and chris with you listining in while tuning my car., my lower boost was because of switching to catless, the part you did not hear i guess.. I also recheck clamps at the motel they were tight before you drove and redid tune. but some how one clamp was loose at the the next morning at the race. I have never had clamps loosen with the type
I was running.)


If running a richer AFR and less timing (ie. a safe and responsible tune vs. lean and detonating) resulted in only a 7rwhp power drop I can live with that.

But now you say:


Now I'm confused. By your own words I richened the tune which would make it safer, yet now you claim I detonated your motor. I'd like to know how reducing timing and adding fuel for safety sake results in detonation that killed your motor and still made less power than a lean and aggressive tune as the car had before. Then again you don't suppose there is a chance that during all your "6000rpm+" testing that you did on your own (that you posted about and told me about in person later) which was all done prior to the OKC tune with the Diablo chip (which you admitted was LEAN) could have had an affect here?

( You told me that it was running lean, so I repeated your quote. I don't
know how you knew this with the O2 sensor and clamp you were using
kep falling out of my tail pipe. Not one time has my stock block reached 6000
RPMS on any dyno, nor have I tried.. My car ran ok before and on the 600 to 700 mile trip to OK.That you said you would help haul my car to the dyno,and I took money from the bank to pay for your service. It blew black smoke and ran hotter on the way home. I would guess from fuel washing down the cylinders when fuel milage fell to low singel didgit.)

You have also repeatedly admitted that your car had a mechanical issue (boost leak) during the tune but now it is somehow the tuner's fault that when you fixed the mechanical problem (and didn't allow your tuner to recheck or change anything) the car had issues. I don't understand this.

(again my drop of 1+lb was from going from cats to catless. You said
you did not have the time to look at my car. And you did not have the time
from the looks after the race.)

You were disappointed with the power numbers from the car(as were many others at the OKC Shootout) but we both looked at the AFR and agreed that with the SCT chip it was a safe and responsible value (mid 11's). We also agreed to add timing to look for some more power but the motor did not make more power with more timing and I smelled antifreeze which I brought to your attention. You dismissed it as a leaking radiator cap but I declined to add more timing because I did not want to hurt your motor. That was the end of your dyno tuning. You wanted more power but I declined to add any more timing because I felt that the motor was already lifting the heads. Once again in your own words:

( I was very happy with my RWHP WITH DEOBLO CHIP. I was only conserned
about A/F ratio. And again as I told you at the dyno. I had no anti freeze in
my coolent system for you to smell, I told you that a jug of anti freeze was behide the drivers seat that had leak on the floor.This may be the leaking cap you are refuring to.)

It should be noted here that after "fixing" this boost leak you REFUSED to allow me to re-tune the vehicle and it should also be noted that correcting a boost leak WILL cause a lean condition (again) which you have never allowed me to look into yet you have proceeded to complain ever since.

You did not have the time to look at my car again, your quote. I never refuse
any type of retuning. And you refused to look at my car some months later.
when you stayed over.
Again I never had a boost leak on the dyno, I check the clamps. I was joking
with Chris that I lost 2lb of boost.(cats). I also recheck for loose clamp at the motel. It was tight. But I did have a boost leak from a loose clamp at the track. Don't know why or how it loosened, it never did before.And was not loose the day before)


You did complain about the car using a large (but unspecified) amount of fuel on one trip across the city but nothing was ever found to confirm that there was any cause for this. I did extensive datalogging of the car after receiving this complaint and found nothing to substantiate your observation. Your mileage on the trip home from OKC was clearly not 3mpg.

(The milage was
so bad I did not think I would make it back to the motel. I even stopped
to see if the gas tank had a hole in it. This was the time that beside detonation that you told me I had on the dyno, that I did not hear. the cylinder walls got washed down from to much fuel. You do know the effect of cylinder wash-down and the effects this has on pistons, rings, bearings at a later date? I used around one half tank from dyno to motel. don't remember the milage back to motel ,I would guess 10 to fifteen miles.)

If memory serves me I declined to put the car back on the dyno because we had already explored the limits of how much power it was going to make without lifting the heads. I don't remember all the exact details as this was almost 3 years ago but you were never "refused" any services. There is also a limit to how many things I could do that day but I did take time after the dyno closed to work with your car on the street. You aren't the only one who was down on power, everyone was complaining about that and I had to deal with each one personally. My apologies that I was not able to do everything you wanted.

( I was happy with my power 273.7.deoblo chip. As far as others down on power, the low octain gas play into that day.)

More than likely the Diablo chip would have detonated your motor because as you said, it was "LEAN". I gave you a responsible tune. The Diablo tune was not responsible and your motor probably would not have lasted through the competition.

(There is no way that I will except you to try to pass any type blame on Brian H. that just plain low life.
The deoblo chip was just fine with Brians tune. I was not sure about A/F ratio after MPIII install. Yes I said lean many times, because you told me lean.
but the car allways blew black smoke out the tail pipe after SCT chip install.
not before with deoblo chip. and pipes never got chalk white color or ran hot.)

One more time just in case anyone is not paying attention. The "detuning" that you talk about included adding fuel so that it would not be "LEAN" as you yourself said, and secondly, it included pulling some timing so that the PINGING would go away. A great dyno number on an inertia dyno doesn't always relate to reliable power on the street, especially if it involves detonation and lean AFR's. Your SCT chip turned a lower power number but when as you say, the motor was in borderline detonation already, there isn't a whole lot that can be done other than to provide a responsible AFR and timing curve.

( I let you tune the car, I followed your dirrection ,of adding another 10%
OD on the blower and you installing the STC chip. I did not think was needed. as I lost power)

I find it confusing that you admit that the Diablo tune was lean and yet you complain that you lost power with the SCT chip. Isn't it normal to lose a little power when running richer? Wouldn't you prefer a safer AFR when running high boost? I also commanded a timing curve that was responsible for an MPIII running 20% OD (on 91 octane fuel I might add) as compared to a more aggressive curve intended for lower boost levels and better fuel as your Diablo chip was and you say I purposely detuned your car to make MP look bad. :confused: Your car ran well at the races and even when you finally did replace the headgaskets in your own words "there was nothing wrong with them". Do I need to go dig up that post as well?

(I was not aware that any 91 octain was around to buy in OK. the car had
87 in it. I believe this was a problem with the tuning.)

No one rigged the Dyno-Shootout. That is a very slanderous thing to say. In fact what we did was invite Charles Warner down to participate in the Dyno Shootout and I gave Charles free reign to prove the worth of the MPIII blower that day. I personally paid for 3 hours of dyno time during which he and Dan Sly worked on the MPIII trying to demonstrate a power increase over your MPII. In the end, and without any interference from me, the most they were able to gain from the blower was around 10rwhp. Nothing was rigged, it just was what it was.

(Its not slanderuos when listing what I see and others see and after weighing it all out for over 3 years.
Every MPIII you tuned lost power that day. This was pointed out to me by
others. And it was pointed out to me that they thought you were doing this to dicredit the MPIII. I thought this over a few years now. and I agree
, why from the E-mail you sent me, from talks with you and from the post you made degrading the owner of the MP products. )

It's nice to know my efforts were appreciated. In addition to all the responsibilities of running this event I also did my very best to meet the tuning demands of each person who signed up. I tuned your car on the dyno, I worked with it after the dyno session, and after everything I tried to do that day for everyone else, I was back in your car again at 1am in the morning road testing it making sure that your tune was accurate and safe. As far as I know the car ran perfectly when I was done. After all of that do you want to tell the whole club how much you paid for this 4+ hours of tuning? HOW ABOUT NOT A SINGLE RED CENT. NADA. ZIP. NOTHING. I did all of it for free because I thought we were friends and I felt bad about the way things went. I had really hoped that your car would dominate Stock class and I was as disappointed as you were. I tried everything I could to accommodate you and charged you nothing for my efforts. So now here we are almost 3 years later and you are still bitching about your tune and what a terrible person I am. All I ever did was try to help you and this is the thanks I get.

(I do as many others appreciate all you have done for others around here.
I got $2000.00 out of the bank to pay you to haul my car to the dyno and
for a tune. I did not expect to dominate this class, I planned to run around
the same as others with there mods did. I think we where running around a
fifth place car. but we won with your tune ,because of other drivers making airs.)

Honestly Randy, I highly doubt that anyone wants to hear about any of this any more. I have nothing to hide and I did the best I could with what I had to work with at the time. If you want to remain bitter and make up reasons to disparage me then go ahead I suppose. I'm not afraid of (or bothered by) anything you might say here. I am an honest person, I have nothing to hide, and I do what I can for anyone and everyone who asks.

( I am not bitter about this. My feelings are hurt that your ego is so
large that you think that you never make a mistake. my motor damage was not done on purpose by you. But I have thought about this for some time.
I believe you had no interrest in letting any RWHP gains to be shown
from the MPIII Product.) And as I posted earler, the detuning of the MPIII
was pointed out to me by other members, I gave it a lot of thought.
And I agree with others. you tried to discredit the MPIII.)

My apologies to everyone else who has endured this. I have been avoiding Randy's posts for some time now because I really feel that people do not want to read this but there comes a time when enough is enough. People have the right to hear my side of the story.

(I am a very forgiving person when I understand why some one does there
actions. But you have never apologize to me. Nor do I expect one with
your quest to climb a ladder at my and others expence. ) I will apologize
for holding back as I have more to say!! This did not start with the dyno
tune at the ok shootout and has continude. I can tell you this matter would of been settled between us & been dropped long ago, if one of your buddies would stop throwing gas on the fire!! )

David


I will be at the ST LOUIS drag strip all day 04-20 if any one wants
to talk with me. I am not the best typer of post.

Randy Baker
 
Miller sorry for the way my post sounds on your thread.

You brought up my car was over heating. My first post was
ment to explain why my car was over heating. It was from
tuning and washed down cylinders,etc.Sorry that I am not
pollitically correct in my post.

I have ran and tested your style pump on my car. I used
it with a barrowed remote pump in exchange for some
machine work. It was a 50gph pump. I did not have any
problems. my car ran cooler.

I donot know what your problem would be. With the plate
bolted to your timing cover. you donot need to have to
fill in the round center section of your timing cover
behind the waterpump plate. Your remote electric waterpump
should pressurize all of the cavities behide your plate. Through
the two hoses from the water pump. including the tube your
sensor is screwed to.

Off the top of my head I would first test the amount of voltage
the pump is receiving at all time of operation. Make sure no kinks
are in the radiator hose or the return lines.


I said I would not run this style pump on the street or at the track.
This is because of the stainless steel lines connected to the
system. If you blow a head gasket, and the gasket breaks
through the water jackets. This will pressurize your hole cooling
system. Gary blew a head gasket on his car at St Louis Shootout.
When doing so he damage the radiator and relatted parts.
Not sure but I think it sweld the radiator tank and busted the
aluminum weld seams on the radiator.

My take is that the radiator failure happin because of the stainless
steel braided coolent line. They did not swell like a rubber hose would.

This style plate is ok. many rail drag cars use this setup with
remote pump. but since it was made I have made two other style
that work and look just find. one has the electric pump bolted to
the back plate, all though the plate is thicker that your. I made
this one for a v-6 drag race motor for myself. It uses a MOROSO
pump.

I later made a electric pump , because Damon liked the idea of
the electric pump that has a ideler belt pulling and wanted one.
I told him I would machine one for him if he bought and shipped
me the Mezier electric waterpump with idler pully. I went ahead
and built one for him/myself, if he canged his minded. I tested it.
But he never sent me a pump. It looks much the same that Mike T.
built later on.

I don't get on line much anymore. but I will give your problem
some thought. And get back with you if I come up with anything.

If you are pressed with time and you feel you must run your
car. I have electric pumps that I could loan you. I don't know
you. If Damon backs you up. And you pay shipping both ways,
with a in concrete set amount of days you need to use another
pump set up. I will give some thought on shipping you one
of the drag race style pump set-up. I would need more info
on your motor setup, like do you run power steering, alternator
pully location.

Randy
 
Remote Electric water Pump

I've installed a Morona Racing electric water pump but not sure how to continue with the alterntor and heater hose installation, maybe a remote installation would be best for my application.
Has anyone done a reliable installation?
Would really like to talk to someone about their installation and get some photos.
John
 
I would like to take this time to send a big
you suck
to Mr. I know the pump didnt work right on my car and blew my car up and the car befor mine up, so let me sell it anyways and waste Mr. Millers time and money and make him throw wrenches around the garage and say bad words.
 
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I would like to take this time to send a big
you suck
to Mr. I know the pump didnt work right on my car and blew my car up and the car befor mine up, so let me sell it anyways and waste Mr. Millers time and money and make him throw wrenches around the garage and say bad words.

That's not an accurate assessment of the situation.

1) Randy Baker told Gary and I that in his opinion the pump setup would work fine. Regardless of what he is posting now I have the email to prove it. A lot of people relied on what he said AT THAT TIME.

2) We had no reason at the time to believe that the pump caused Gary's car to blow headgaskets. Gary was running enough OD on his blower to generate in excess of 25psi boost on pump gas. It blew headgaskets during the initial tuning process and was never retuned. From what I know now he was running way too much timing.

3) Mark's experience is his experience and I cannot comment on that but as with any one-off experimental part there is the possibility of having issues getting it to perform correctly. If you want to send out "you sucks" to people who sold things that didn't work as expected there is a long list so you'll have to get in line. :rolleyes:
 
I would like to take this time to send a big
you suck
to Mr. I know the pump didnt work right on my car and blew my car up and the car befor mine up, so let me sell it anyways and waste Mr. Millers time and money and make him throw wrenches around the garage and say bad words.

The water pump did not blow my hgs at the track, so if their is angst inside you towards me it is all a waste.
What more than likely blew the headgaskets on my car was the fact that I was running out of fuel (18psi+ on stock heads and cam) and heard detonation at the top end and then fire extinguishers out the exhaust, the temp guage was fine also that day. Nothing happened to my radiator, just blew fluid into the overflow.

I have already stated the reason I sold it is that i needed money for parts more than the waterpump. The pump was useless to me if the car didnt run.

I Drove the car with the waterpump on it To Carlisle TWICE (3 hour round trips) and in my home town on numerous occasions. I just dont drive my car that much. Gary sold the pump to me the same way I sold it to Damon in working order. I didnt get any help or directions when I got it. I had trouble bleeding the air at first but figured it out. As far as I know the pump works fine, It is just a custom piece geared mostly for drag racing. Sorry if you are upset by minor setbacks but please do not slander me on a club forum we all love. I am an honest person and would never screw anyone.

Mark
 
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