OMG....This Nitrous "stuff" is driving me crazy..

ricardoa1

Registered User
I swear this car is determined for me not to run the damn thing.
First leaking fitting, after a full night of leaks fuel or nos I was able to seal it all up. Now the tap on the intake is loose and the nozzle is wiggly. The pressure will not go above 650 and the heater does not activate unless I turn the bottle off and purge the line. So only activates at 0.

What is the min that the bottle should weight. I think it might be empty, but that fact that I could not activate the heater with pressure worries me.
I got the wideband and the fuel jets ready to give it hell....but these issues are a pain. I should have sold this NOS kit and run a NX or ZEX kit. with a brain box or something.
 
What brand heater are you using ?

I've got an NOS heater with a NX pressure transducer instead of the temp sensor it was originally equipped with. My only problem is that I need to remember to open the bottle valve, so the pressure switch see's bottle pressure or the heater will not shut off.

David

PS: Sounds like you have a bad pressure switch.
 
Dynotune nitrous heater. The heater element warms up when the pressure it 0. But as soon as the bottle is opened, the pressure is only 650 but it manages to shut off. There is an adjustment screw I will try to play with it but the default setting is supposed to be 950. 650 is way off.
I did warm it up with the bottle closed for a few minutes and opened it again the pressure was the same. Maybe my autometer gauge is busted, I might PU a gauge for the bottle one of those little ones.

Sucks. If I take the bottle out what is the weight? 10lbs or more for the weight of the metal?
 
My 10lb HSW nitrous bottle weighs 14lbs 10oz empty. This info is on the sticker on the bottle. Dunno what to tell you about the heater other than call dynotune..
 
sounds like the pressure switch is just set too low, crank up that screw and see when it shuts off. I have a bottle gauge if you want to use it for the time being....
 
Do you want to get together this weekend and endanger your life while helping me with this damn thing?
I could use that gauge to verify my autometer in dash gauge.
 
This is what i got, not sure if you have two spots on your bottle adapter, or if you just need the guage by itself. Anyhow, I'm busy this weekend, but I could just hand-off the gauge sometime on Sat. and you can let me know when you're done with it. I'm located in Medford/Somerville, so its even closer to you. Just remind me by the end of the week and I can grab it.

741-15914.jpg
 
is there anyway to ditch the pressure on/off thing and just use the heater? wire it off a on/off toggle switch? thats the way mine is i just keep a close eye on the bottle pressure and kill it at 1000psi the residual heat gets it to like 1050 with the blanket on it. the one i have is the NOS with the stupid temp sensor thing i took that thing off cause it never worked right.
 
I guess I could. Does anyone have a temperature/pressure chart?
So it will tell me if the bottle pressure is accurate to the gauge?
What is the bottle pressure supposed to be at lets say. 60F or 70F?
 
I guess I could. Does anyone have a temperature/pressure chart?
So it will tell me if the bottle pressure is accurate to the gauge?
What is the bottle pressure supposed to be at lets say. 60F or 70F?

Ricardo,

Temp vs. pressure will vary depending on how much nitrous is in the bottle, that's why I switched to the pressure transducer for control of the heater. It's heats it to whatever temp is needed to maintain 1000-1050 PSI (which takes a real long time in cold weather).

David
 
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