need some help asap..... bleeding brakes

92sclikenew

Registered User
like it says i need help i was planing on bleeding my brakes because the pedle was a little soft... well now i messed them up...


i did it like i found on he in old post... key rears let pump bleed them key off front and pump them up.. well now i have a hard pedel till i hear the pump come on and then the pedel is soft and then seem to work right.. but soon as i let off the pedel it starts all over... what did i do wrong

this is whats happen the abs and brake light will come on.... and the pump will run once it runs the pedel is soft and the brakes seem to work dont wanna drive it now...


am i gonna have to get a new ball??
found this in a old thread think this is pretty much what is happening
The following is provided for reference only:
The pump will typically cycle for a few seconds about every forth or fifth time you press the brake pedal. If the pressure gets too low for the system to operate, the ABS and BRAKE warning indicators should come on. When that happens, it will take a few seconds for the pump to fully pressurize the system.
 
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come on one has a answer

its like i have no brakes till the pump pumps up.. the system and every time i press the pedel the pump runs and i have to way till the abs and red brake light to turn off b4 i have workin brakes?? pedel is hard till the pump is done running..... what is it

every time i press the pedel this is what happens till the pump turns off.. did i get air in the pump sume how????
 
Brakes don't just get soft. For what reason do you think that air got in there?

Did you keep the reservoir full when bleeding so that it didn't pull any air through it? You should have someone help. When the pump stops, the pedal should have assist regardless of pedal position. If the pump isn't running, and you have no assist, then pump should start when you press the pedal to try and give you assist.
 
Brakes don't just get soft. For what reason do you think that air got in there?

Did you keep the reservoir full when bleeding so that it didn't pull any air through it? You should have someone help. When the pump stops, the pedal should have assist regardless of pedal position. If the pump isn't running, and you have no assist, then pump should start when you press the pedal to try and give you assist.

pump works it comes on every time i hit the pedel its that i dont have brakes till the pump stops running for the 3-5secs it runs and this is ever time i hit the brakes..

a while back when it was cold when i blew out a brake line i did a quick bleed job....

i been reading some threads and now think it could be the accumalator ball because my lights were coming on b4 i bleed the system and then after this is whats happen..


also the car did sit at that time and drain omost all its fluid out then... but i had good strong brakes after besides a bit spungy i have good clean fluid at all 4 calipers... i have ran a bottle and 1/2 thur all the lines today tryin to clean the system out and bleed these...like i said i have good clean fluid at all 4 calipers
 
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I hate brakes....

Usually easy but Im never happy with the pedal per amount of time and money spent....

If you can drive it...Take it to a shop and let them bleed the system...Cant cost all that much...

I bleed the lazy way...I just crack the bleeders just enough to allow a drop to come out on all 4....Fill up the resovior and keep filling it every 3 hours...

Hard pedal...

Usually a sign that your master cylinder has air locked in it....Best way to bleed it....Get some junk lines....About 1 foot each....Attach these to your master cylinder...Bend them back into the filling hole and pump your brakes slow for about 100 slow pumps....This will force all the air out and then will bubble to the top.......

Afterwards attach your brake lines quick with the bleeders open...Make sure the passengers rear is more open then the rest.........

I know some porportioning valves have a valve in them that needs to be open when doing a true bleeding...Some dont



Once again I hate brakes.....If everything is loose..Id take it to a shop....Cant see why it should cost anymore then $60

F1
 
I hate brakes....

Usually easy but Im never happy with the pedal per amount of time and money spent....

If you can drive it...Take it to a shop and let them bleed the system...Cant cost all that much...

I bleed the lazy way...I just crack the bleeders just enough to allow a drop to come out on all 4....Fill up the resovior and keep filling it every 3 hours...

Hard pedal...

Usually a sign that your master cylinder has air locked in it....Best way to bleed it....Get some junk lines....About 1 foot each....Attach these to your master cylinder...Bend them back into the filling hole and pump your brakes slow for about 100 slow pumps....This will force all the air out and then will bubble to the top.......

Afterwards attach your brake lines quick with the bleeders open...Make sure the passengers rear is more open then the rest.........

I know some porportioning valves have a valve in them that needs to be open when doing a true bleeding...Some dont



Once again I hate brakes.....If everything is loose..Id take it to a shop....Cant see why it should cost anymore then $60

F1

i aint takin it to a shop i dont wanna drive it

it does kind of have brakes... im gonna get a accumalator ball and im gonna run to the junk yard 2morrow and see what i might be able to pic up.. old lines w/e i do have some one for help..

the abs and brake like have been flashin for like a year... well coming on and off..
 
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pump works it comes on every time i hit the pedel its that i dont have brakes till the pump stops running for the 3-5secs it runs and this is ever time i hit the brakes.

You don't have brake assist until the pump stops running, or you don't have brake assist until the pump starts running?

Is it correct that everything was fine until the brake line broke?
 
You don't have brake assist until the pump stops running, or you don't have brake assist until the pump starts running?

Is it correct that everything was fine until the brake line broke?

yes it was fine this was a while ago..


well i made it to the pick and pull yard today.. and got the only ball i could find took me 15min to break it loose... put it on all is well.. besides there is still a little bit of delay.. and if i push the pedel harder they work great so im thinkin i got some air in the lines still..

should i bleed after installing an accumalator ball????
 
You shouldn't need to bleed after replacing the accumulator. Little bit of delay? Not sure what that means.

If you allowed air into the master cylinder when previously bleeding them, You could have clear fluid coming out of all the bleeders for quite a while until any air that made it into the master cylinder works it's way out the wheel ends. Thus it can seem like it is clear for a good 1/2 pint until that air makes it's way through.

So it's important that if you bleed your brakes, you have someone handy, or you check often that the fluid level in the master cylinder doesn't drop to low while bleeding.
 
You shouldn't need to bleed after replacing the accumulator. Little bit of delay? Not sure what that means.

If you allowed air into the master cylinder when previously bleeding them, You could have clear fluid coming out of all the bleeders for quite a while until any air that made it into the master cylinder works it's way out the wheel ends. Thus it can seem like it is clear for a good 1/2 pint until that air makes it's way through.

So it's important that if you bleed your brakes, you have someone handy, or you check often that the fluid level in the master cylinder doesn't drop to low while bleeding.

thanks bro i think im gonna rebleed them
 
did some rear bleeding so far much better i think the use accumalater ball i got is on its way of quiting.. thats next on my list after a radaitor:eek:
 
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