Car turns over but wont start

kenewagner

Registered User
Finally repaired the big blower and reinstalled it. Had a battery with a short in it so I replaced the battery. Engine now turns over but wont fire. Before the problem with the blower, car started and ran a short time with a rough idle. I checked for spark and have spark. I put a fuel pressure gauge on and it is at 42 lbs when the key turns on. Pressure drops real slow with the key off. 5 Minutes and its down to 10 lbs of pressure. All vacuum hoses are on and tight. All electrical connections are tight. I checked for codes and came up with
511 (twice)
513
512

Also checked all the fuses under the dash and in the distribution box under the hood. All ok

513 Saids PCM internal voltage failure
512 Saids Keep alive Memory (KAM) test failure

Need some imput as to what that means and where I should go from here. Need to get this car running before I go crazy :eek:

Ken
 
Have a spare EEC available? That battery short may have cooked a couple of transistors in the EEC.

Frit
 
Have a spare EEC available? That battery short may have cooked a couple of transistors in the EEC.

Frit

No I dont. Last year I was dynoed 5 times without a working tune and knowledgeable people such as Dave advised to get another EEC which I did from Rock Auto. They require the old EEC back as a core so I have no EEC as a back up.

Ken
 
Are you sure you have spark? You've tried the key on, crank, key off, key on crank, key off routine a few times? With no change?

I would verify EEC is getting power at the EEC connector before throwing it away.
 
Are you sure you have spark? You've tried the key on, crank, key off, key on crank, key off routine a few times? With no change?

I would verify EEC is getting power at the EEC connector before throwing it away.

If he's getting error codes, the EEC is getting power. The 12 volt power being fed into the EEC gets trimmed down to the 0 to 5 volt range so the A/D converters can measure it, and that circuit could have been fried.

Frit
 
Are you sure you have spark? You've tried the key on, crank, key off, key on crank, key off routine a few times? With no change?

I would verify EEC is getting power at the EEC connector before throwing it away.

Took an old sparkplug wire pluged it in place of one of the ones going to the spark plug in the engine. Stuck an old plug in and set the plug on the radiator support bracket. Had melon turn the engine over a couple of times and observed good spark. Where would I check for power to the EEC?

Ken
 
Hey Ken, I think I have a couple of EECs with the M2Y calibration. If you need one to try shoot me a PM.

Rodney
 
If you can pull codes, I guess you have power. I guess I would validate you have all 12v at the EEC before calling it dead then in case a wiring issue cropped up.

Pin #1 - Yellow on the EEC-IV connector is Keep Alive power. Unswitched 12v. This runs through the EEC-IV fuse under the hood
Pin #57 - Red on the EEC-IV connector is Vehicle Power. Switched and is the output from IRCM #24 EEC power relay.

Make sure you see 12volts at the EEC-IV connector for those two. Finally, check and make sure the black with green stripe are common to ground. (40 & 60 on the eec-iv connector)

Then if those prove to be acting correctly at the connector, we'd have to call it a bad EEC-IV module. (If you have a chip make sure that sucker is on there solid.. maybe even remove it and re-do key off tests.)
 
Take a mechanic's stethiscope and put it up to one of the injectors when someone's cranking it... See if you can hear it tick. Fortunately (for once) our injectors are quite noisy.
 
If you can pull codes, I guess you have power. I guess I would validate you have all 12v at the EEC before calling it dead then in case a wiring issue cropped up.

Pin #1 - Yellow on the EEC-IV connector is Keep Alive power. Unswitched 12v. This runs through the EEC-IV fuse under the hood
Pin #57 - Red on the EEC-IV connector is Vehicle Power. Switched and is the output from IRCM #24 EEC power relay.

Make sure you see 12volts at the EEC-IV connector for those two. Finally, check and make sure the black with green stripe are common to ground. (40 & 60 on the eec-iv connector)

Then if those prove to be acting correctly at the connector, we'd have to call it a bad EEC-IV module. (If you have a chip make sure that sucker is on there solid.. maybe even remove it and re-do key off tests.)

Just checked the yellow and red wires. They are working correctly. At lunch time I will check the ground (forgot to do that) And will crank it over a while and than pull a plug to see it it is wet with fuel. Am really trying to understand why it ran before and just swapping the blower in and out change something

Ken
 
Ken,

Just a shot in the dark but did you also check to make sure that your chip is seated properly?
 
Good lord I'm starting to feel like these cars are a curse.

Your telling me:rolleyes:I walk around all day long with the black cloud above my head smiling and hopeing I dont get hit with a bolt of lightning. My wife teases me that all my car does is look pretty. And I am scratching my head bald trying to figure it out. I checked the chip it is seated fine so I can rule that out

Ken
 
Tried to start the car and it started. Wouldnt idle or keep running but ran for say 15 seconds. Did that maybe 3 times than it seem like the battery went down and strained to over a couple of times. Now its back to just turning over with no firing. Maybe it is an ignition switch, I dont know. Injectors must be firing if it was running

Ken
 
I was not concentrating on color so I dont remember. Where are you going with the color of the spark?

Ken

As I recall, blue is good and white/yellow isn't. If you don't have a dedicated spark tester, at least try to work with a fresh spark plug.

Frustrating when troubleshooting, of course, since it can perhaps be a situation of thinking you have a 'good' spark when maybe you don't. As with many aspects of t'shooting, if the spark was not present at all it would at least then present itself as a black & white situation.

Ken
 
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