changing fuel line tips???

decipha

Registered User
the fuel line that connects the fpr to the fuel rail caught on fire today due to a leak. who ever put the line on there used a clear flex-type hose. Anyway, I need to replace it, i used brute force and a bunch of bloody knuckles to get the old hose off, I have a fresh new fuel hose but i can't get enuff of my hands in there to secure it on the fpr and fuel rail. I thought about removing the intercooler pipe and rear intake tube. Its held on in the back with 3 10mm bolts and at the intercooler pipe with 2x 1/2' bolts. Well inorder to get to the bottom bolt to remove the pipe I have to remove the sc top and inlet tube which is alot more crap.

btw, if i do remove the sc top and both the intercooler pipes do i have to get new gaskets? Never removed the sc plumbing before.

any ideas?
 
You may have enough room to put that hose on if you remove the upper and lower plastic cowl pieces; the wiper will have to come off too. Also, you can just get a wrench on that bottom nut if you loosen the SC collar nut and slide it out of the way. You can reseal all the ic tubes and top with permatex copper, or you can purchase a set of re-usable teflon gaskets (for the tubes) from various sources (spinning wheels, scp, ebay, ...). I prefer the reusable gaskets but the permatex works in a pinch.
Be very thorough about cleaning the tube connections, and getting a good seal if you have to remove all those parts.

Take a look at this article on fuel rail maintenance, if you're replacing one of these lines you will need special high pressure line as mentioned in this article. http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12how-to/fuel-rail/fuel-rail.html

Best of luck
Bob
 
Take a look at this article on fuel rail maintenance, if you're replacing one of these lines you will need special high pressure line as mentioned in this article. http://www.mn12performance.com/mn12how-to/fuel-rail/fuel-rail.html

Best of luck
Bob

Thanks for posting Rich's link Bob. I was going to until I saw that you had.

Oh and Decipha, I think it is best to maybe do a little extra work by removing things to make it easier to do the job correctly. Afterall, if not done right you could lose your ride all together.
 
thanks for the tips i really appreciate it.

I realized I was having so much trouble because the hose I had was too small. I ended up using a 5/16 hose and 4 screw clamps to secure the new hose on. I didn't even have to remove any of the sc plumbing. Fuel pressure is up now and car is running great. After a start and leak check I shut it down and it held 40psi when I checked it 7-1/2 minutes later, I'll check it again in about an hour from now but I had to run in because it started raining.
 
thanks for the tips i really appreciate it.

I realized I was having so much trouble because the hose I had was too small. I ended up using a 5/16 hose and 4 screw clamps to secure the new hose on. I didn't even have to remove any of the sc plumbing. Fuel pressure is up now and car is running great. After a start and leak check I shut it down and it held 40psi when I checked it 7-1/2 minutes later, I'll check it again in about an hour from now but I had to run in because it started raining.

Sounds promising. The true test will be when rail pressure gets around 55psi at full boost.
 
55lbs at full boost??? i can tag 60 on a quick rip of the throttle????

maybe thats why my car stalls when it goes in to boost?
 
55lbs at full boost??? i can tag 60 on a quick rip of the throttle????

maybe thats why my car stalls when it goes in to boost?

Hard to say, I was just going off the fact that fuel pressure increases approx one psi per psi of boost above atmospheric pressure. So an idling rail pressure of 40psi + 15lbs boost when floored would be approx 55psi. Maybe someone who runs an in-dash fuel pressure gauge could chime in and let us know the reality.
 
i do run an indash fuel pressure gauge, thats how i know i rip 60psi on a quick throttle pinch
 
come to find out that was part of my problem, person that owned the car before me set the fuel pressure to 39psi with the vac on :eek:

no wonder why i was ripping 60psi of fuel pressure just by lightly pinching the throttle

my car was running so rich it'd make you cry if you stood behind it
 
Was the clear hose brittle? It may have been the factory hose but with the cover missing off it. The factory line is similar to the Aerquip push-loc hose, but with a clear nylon center hose that is what seals to the rail.

A standard fuel line with hose clamps will eventually fail. The barbs on the rail are not designed to hold onto the standard hose and as you found, a failure right there could easily lead to a fire.

I highly suggest getting the proper -4 socketless hose and doing the full rebuild, paying close attention to rich's article about not scoring the rail when cutting off the old hose.
 
i never knew that now that im thinking about it its very possible it could have been the oem hose but yes it was very brittle.

yeah i planned on changing the hose i threw on there, that was just a quick fix for the time being.
 
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