Fuel Delivery Problem

CMac89

Registered User
For the past year, I have encountered the fuel pump randomly deactivating on start-up. Just like the other three time it has happened, not including today, I drove home from work yesterday evening, shut the car off, went back out to my car just now, and the fuel pump isn't priming/running at all.

What methods can I try to get power to the pump? Or maybe other suggestions?
 
I went out there again and told the pump "yo momma's so fat, she jumped up in the air and got stuck."

Then the pump started working and it fired right up. Weird; I'm gonna put my fuel cell and A1000 pump on this week so I don't have to worry about it anymore.
 
I went out there again and told the pump "yo momma's so fat, she jumped up in the air and got stuck."

Then the pump started working and it fired right up. Weird; I'm gonna put my fuel cell and A1000 pump on this week so I don't have to worry about it anymore.

ahh, so it finally comes out. The REAL reason why you had to buy a fuel cell.:D
 
Casey,

Suggest running a fused 10 gauge wire from battery to under the rear seat. Install a relay and wire it to use the existing fuel pump power wire as the signal/trigger power to activate the relay and run another 10 gauge wire from the relay to the pump/sender harness as close to the connector as possible. Doing it that way keeps the EEC control over the pump and the inertia switch is still functional.

Same thing will work with the A1000 pump.

David
 
Bad ground, or failing pump. It isn't uncommon for a pump to work intermittantly when it is failing. It also isn't uncommon for a ground issue to crop up.

If you do what Dave suggests... a good idea, make sure you fuse that battery line.
 
Casey,

Suggest running a fused 10 gauge wire from battery to under the rear seat. Install a relay and wire it to use the existing fuel pump power wire as the signal/trigger power to activate the relay and run another 10 gauge wire from the relay to the pump/sender harness as close to the connector as possible. Doing it that way keeps the EEC control over the pump and the inertia switch is still functional.

Same thing will work with the A1000 pump.

David

What is the actual function of the EEC's control over the pump? For the A1000 I was just going to run the wires to a switch. If you think it's significant to run it off of the EEC, then I can do that. The factory tank will be discarded, so the harness to the pump would be solitude. If necessary, then I can do what you said and use a wire splice into the factory harness and run a 10-gauge wire to the pump. If the pump randomly dies, it's going on a switch, though.

Also, which wire is for the fuel level? I was going to run that wire to the cell. My fuel level gauge intermittently buries on FULL more than it actually reads. I don't know if it's the float, or the gauge's problem.

Thanks guys
 
With the EEC controlling the pump you won't forget to shut it off and kill the battery. It will also shut the fuel off in a collision.

There are 4 wires on the fuel tank harness...the two larger wires are for the pump...black is ground and the other is power (think it's green). The two smaller wires are for the fuel level sender...don't know which is which.

David
 
Back
Top