Loss of power

d3016

Registered User
Hello everyone:

First, I want to thank everyone on this site. This site has helped me in so many ways, and it was so great to find this site, because of all the how-to/informative articles. So thanks everyone!

Now, for the problem, I am a new owner of 1993 SC 5 speed with 100k on the clock. The car loses power on hard acceleration. The boost gauge will go almost to 10, but the car doesnt seem responsive. It is just lagging. The weird part is that it does not do this all the time. It is very intermittent. When it does happen, the check engine light comes on and than goes off about 30 seconds later. I am going to replace all plugs/wires soon, but wanted to know if it could be anything else. I have access to a pic-a-part here in Nevada and I could probably get a DIS/Coil pack for real cheap. What is everyone's thoughts?

Thank you again for all the help!

D3
 
Check vacuum lines on pressure side of blower, they will seal under a vacuum but bleed boost on acceration = loss of power. I used zip ties to keep em tight at hose port connection. Yes this sight will be very helpfull!!! Yes we drink beer at the computer and help each other out LOL
 
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I have the same issue, doesn’t always do it all the time the check engine light comes on for a little bit then goes away low idle and loss of power. I tried 3 different used coil packs nothing seems to make a different. When my car is in park my boost gauge is at (-5 vac) I’m not sure what it’s supposed to be at 0 maybe? I looked for vac. leak nothing leaking that I see. I’m getting new plugs and wires tomorrow so I will go from there. The car is a 93 SC auto with no mods yet any idea let us know.

I took 2 pic.s showing the boost and a vac. line im not sure if its on right

Thanks,
Jerry
 

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On a stock car you should be right about -20 on the vacuum side at idle. There should be a rubber end on that vacuum line that goes over that copper nipple there on the intake plenum.

Frit
 
I have the same issue, doesn’t always do it all the time the check engine light comes on for a little bit then goes away low idle and loss of power. I tried 3 different used coil packs nothing seems to make a different. When my car is in park my boost gauge is at (-5 vac) I’m not sure what it’s supposed to be at 0 maybe? I looked for vac. leak nothing leaking that I see. I’m getting new plugs and wires tomorrow so I will go from there. The car is a 93 SC auto with no mods yet any idea let us know.

I took 2 pic.s showing the boost and a vac. line im not sure if its on right

Thanks,
Jerry

:eek::eek:you have a VAC LEAK this might help /http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19261url]) ;)
 
I agree with the vac leak, even if your gauge is reading 20hg u can still have a leak and it can be anywhere in your system. as far as reading 10psi of boost and unresponsive, that sounds like a leak as well, but maybe on the ic lines, collar nut or at the top. check to see if you are getting codes. im thinking the car is dumping fuel at wot and the o2 sensors see a rich condition. get a code reader it will be the best $50 you spend for that car.
 
The pic. I took is that line for the boost gauge? I'm thinking its getting pinched so the gauge reads wrong. My IC tubes are rtvblue sealed as of last weekend.

Today's goal: Check codes, Wires, Plugs


Thanks,
Jerry
 
The pic. I took is that line for the boost gauge? I'm thinking its getting pinched so the gauge reads wrong. My IC tubes are rtvblue sealed as of last weekend.

Today's goal: Check codes, Wires, Plugs


Thanks,
Jerry

dont use rtv blue ether use gray black or copper.. the blue never worked good for me it never seems to dry.. always has that wettness to it and will leak.. use ether of the ones i listed and its mostly dry to drive in 45min....
 
Ok, fixed the boost and vac. issue its reading 20 vac. now and I feel more power but the check engine light still comes and goes. Still having a issue with low oil pressure when I put it into gear, it ideals fine in (n) but when I stick it in gear poor (low) ideal and the oil gauge drops. I have a pic. Here to show the gauges.

I bought new plugs and wires but I still want to hear from you guys what to do next.

Thanks,
Jerry
 

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in the pic vac looks good but is NO oil pressure:eek: have you check the oil sender to see if the connection is lose or still good sender? might be going in to limp mode because it thinks no oil.
 
Where is the oil sender located? It only goes to no pressure when I put it in gear but in neutral and while driving its fine...

Thanks let me know,
Jerry
 
it just down from the thermsat. trace the wire down from the coolent sender on the thermsat housing to the oil sender behind the belt for the alt, power stering. kind of next to the water pump.
 
Ok thanks it seems like everything is good on the wiring but how do you tell if the sender is bad? I'm not really sure if thats the problem im having though. I guess im going to change the wires and plugs.

thanks,
Jerry
 
Ok thanks it seems like everything is good on the wiring but how do you tell if the sender is bad? I'm not really sure if thats the problem im having though. I guess im going to change the wires and plugs.

thanks,
Jerry

Just buy a new sending unit and replace it. I would just go to a pick and save as they will not be expensive there.
 
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