It ran a 10.76 @ 77mph 1/8 :94SC getting its TLC

Rpdboss · May 17, 2008

I made a temp garage as the 1979 Chevy Monza is tieing up the nice garage. The plan is to remove the engine from the top using a chain hoist connected to a comercial park swingset. Pull the oil pan, check bearings, plastigauge them if need be, maybe replace. Check the flexplate and torque convertor for issues. Pull the valve covers off, check rockers and push rods for slack, replace if need be. Also I have to replace the water pump while I'm at it. Plan on wraping the exhaust up and and grind the rings off the collectors. I'll post pics as I go

dwayne · May 18, 2008

just be carful with the tempary hoist,they can be dangrous.good luck with the work.

Rpdboss · May 18, 2008

updates

Well here what happened so far. Every part came off pretty easy, removed exhaust, starter, torqure converter nuts, throttle, egr, sc (rotars a bit chipped on edges), found a loose rear return plenium bolt, broken ic tube support bolts. I did notice when I turned the power steering pulley/pump in one direction and then back I would hear and feel click/clacks, also moves in and out maybe a 1/16 of and inch. Removing the enigine was hard till I found a small 13mm bolt holding the tranny on right above the upper starter bolt. Flex plate was ok but the starter ring is kinda out of wack. half part is flush and the other sunk in engine side. Torque convertor looks ok from the outside but have little expierence with them.
When I would turn the engine by hand slowly i could hear the lifter clacking and if left in certain postion I could hear them bleed off with clacking. So I'm going to pull the valve covers to check rockers and pushrods and clearances. Then also pull oil pan, check bearings, replace probably anyway. Oh the tranny fluid looked redish brown, how much fluid to completely replace it?

dwayne · May 18, 2008

16 qrts i think.

dwayne · May 18, 2008

yes, the trans fluid is shot.looking at your picts,first like the makeshift garage.you may as well change the O2 sensers,and water pump.

bigpoppa822 · May 18, 2008

Nice engine hoist. I pulled mine out with a backhoe and some chain lol

Rpdboss · May 18, 2008

its apart, Found some new stuff

I never knew these engines had windage trays and also I couldnt find a SC stamp on this block, where is it at? Also pulled one rod bearing so far and found it to be undersized .250. I meausred the rod journal myself to be 2.300 exactly.

Rpdboss · May 18, 2008

more pics, and more when i take of more bearings

pictures added, Now how do I know if I need the .002 O/S rod bore ones or straight .250 ones? might have to remove that crank to find out so I can asemble a rod end.

Young-SC-Owner · May 18, 2008

Stamped on the heads dogg!

Rpdboss · May 18, 2008

well of course there but what about the block itself? found out by part # that those bearings were straight .250 undersized, so now I have to pick a brand and bi or tri metal....

.
I did however find another possible source of that pesky knocking, clanking sound that anoyed me to the point of a tear down. Seems to be a connecting rod is rubbing the windage tray to where its worn it down some here in this pic.

Was also set back by my father needing to use my chain hoist to cut down one huge popular and several other trees so his nascar show wouldnt be interupted by signal losses

. pic to entertain

AlanEdwards · May 19, 2008

Rpdboss said:
Oh the tranny fluid looked redish brown, how much fluid to completely replace it?

Sorry pap, but according to my 94 SC Ford factory manual, 12.5 qts tranny fluid. I replaced my filter and fluid just last week, so I had to find out for myself.

Good luck Rpdboss.

Take care,
Alan

Rpdboss · May 25, 2008

updates

I have all the bearings in and plastigauged. All range in 1.0 to 1.5 thousandths on an inch for oil clearances. Cleaned everything I took off. Painted almost everything now.
Took apart the blower and found the rear needle bearings to be almost dry. degreased them and replaced the grease with high temp red stuff. Also had to clean off all the teflon coating as it was easier to chip off than that yummy lead paint; didnt want it to bind up the sc.
Also while i had it apart I ported what I could of the intake plenium and the blower openings. That dremel and a side cutting bit go a long way and dont clog

. I also have ground off both bottom rings of the exhaust manifolds for more flow. Then wraped them in 2 inch exhaust wrap and coated that with high temp ceramic paint, plan on warpping all the way to the cats and the return IC tube as well.
So now what I have left is a bit of 2nd coat paint spots and accesory brackets have to be mounted back on, then replace the enigine back into the bird. Then just nuts and bolts from there.

XxSlowpokexX · May 26, 2008

I'm just lookin here. The tranny fluid. The fluid does look a lil burnt . CHanging teh fluid however may release buildup withn the tranny and cause a failure. Just be prepared. Teh new cleaning additives of the trannt fluid will break down these deposits which sometimes on older cars is actually keeping things together to an extent.

Rpdboss · May 26, 2008

Not as much as I would have liked

I finished wraping the exhaust all the way to the cats. Anyone else do that and see and changes, good - bad? Got the rest of the parts painted and glaze coated to a super shine. Filled the torque converter as much as i could before it would leak out. This one has no drain plug..

Had a PITA getting the torque converter/tranny to line up with the flex plate. Seemed the motor mounts always wanted to caught up on their counterparts before even gettin close to the T/C.
Hopefully the tranny doesnt go anytime soon, 2-3 shift is a bit hard but it still works, no slipping. I'll get a better idea of the condition when I pull the tranny pan and change the filter; look for "brake dust" on the bottom.

Rpdboss · May 29, 2008

a medical set back

On monday i was porting that exhaust and i got a piece of cast iron in my eye even with saftey glasses on. Didnt make much of it other than it felt like a bug in my eye, flushed it out and went on with my work. Well now my left eye is infected and inflamed. The eye surgon took 3 large pieces out today and I have to go back tommaro for the rust ring that those pieces made. So far this has cost me 2.5 days of pay ,$65 eye doc fee, $175 per surgon visit x 2 and what ever meds I need to keep it clean. No insurance as I'm still between job insurance 90 day things. Even so you cant make a claim for X amount of days after starting my new insurance, they want a few weeks woth of money first.

Rpdboss · May 31, 2008

Its up and running, still needs stuff

I got back from the eye doc this afternoon. They got the rest of the metal and rusted cornia out and gave me a dozen doses of eye numbing drops. So when I got home slapped on my new eye patch on, saftey goggles and went at it one eyed.

. So i changed the tranny pan gasket and fluid, very messy. Noticed a good amount of much and thin grease like coating on the bottom of the pan. Filled it back up with new fluid and made a temp loop for the tranny cooler line. Got all the other stuff done enough to make a test start, wouldnt start. Turns out to be a loose dis module

but it starts without a radiator and most intake fittings plugged off; also no O2 sensors yet. But tommaro is another day

Rpdboss · May 31, 2008

Ok, I spent a good part of the day on the exhaust, warping a few wires and some other small stuff. Then onto installing that big new tranny cooler, remove radiator plumb lines n stuff, replace rad and fil it. Seems to be taking more than 3 gal,

, well I get it running and then I see the area it comming from. Near the cat on the passenger side, closer inspection and it coming from the ac area. Open the door and its coming out of the Heater core. Just drippin out of the glove box and floor vents.

So now I have to get this fixed. Any quick way to changing that?

Rpdboss · Jun 2, 2008

Got the new heater core in

Thanks again XR7 Dave for the spare heater core. Heres some pics of how far I have the dash apart to fix a flapper door and the heater core swap. Seems the car came with the copper/brass core which cracked at the seals when I removed/installed the engine. The one Dave gave me is alluminum and has more fin tube allong with more heat transfer fins. Maybe.... tomorrow I'll get to take it for a drive finally

Rpdboss · Jun 5, 2008

Got it put back together but it has issues. When I first start it up i see the check engine light flash twice and then the idle kicks up to 1500, sets there a while and then comes down a bit. After a 20 or so secs it just drops suddenly to 500rpm almost stalling it. Not sure whats making it do this, seems to drive ok so far too. Power stearing went dry, pump sounds realy bad even after I added as much fluid as I could and worked the wheel in both directions. still sounds bad.

Rpdboss · Jun 5, 2008

having same issuies today. Got new o2 sensors but will install later today. car seems to run warmer than usual and misfires, the skipping kind when ideling and sometimes seems to loose 80% of its power. Not sure if my port job was any good, as it seems to be only about 7-8 psi before shifting, when full throttle in 3rd or second it will make 13 ish boost. idle vac varries between 20 when warm to sometimes as low as 15 inches mercury. GOtta find this problem.

It ran a 10.76 @ 77mph 1/8 :94SC getting its TLC

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