Kooks fit issue

BlkBirds

Registered User
I'm hoping for a little help on gettin my headers to fit. I bought a set of the Kooks full length coated headers and I'm having a hell of a time with the driver's side hitting the steering shaft. It also seems to be crazy close to the floor board. I bought a second drivers side header after a couple conversations with Bill at SCP and Kooks, and it's marginally improved over the first one. Any one have a similar issue? According to Bill, the top portion of the mid-length and full length are the same. The only thing I've gotten so far is "you may have to dimple them for a proper fit. That's just hot-rodding". I didn't spend that kind of money to take a ball peen hammer to them.
Thanks for any help guys.

Kurt
 
sorry you having so much trouble,but back in the day we used to have to heat the tubes to clasr stiring and other things to get them to fit
 
Dimple? Wouldn't that crack the coating?
Under almost every circumstance it would destroy the coating allowing for oxidation and ultimately rust (and ceramic coating is not patchable after the damage). Not a great idea and anyone peddling that as a solution just doesn’t care about your ‘stuff’. How about disconnecting the shaft and reinstalling it after the header install.
 
i have the long tube and mine rub when i make left hand turns. it catches one of the bolts on the steering shaft. it has gottn better since i have driven it.
 
Not to make light of your situation, but dimpling headers is a common practice and normal problem on traditional V8's. I guess we can't possibly hope to have better luck than them.... :rolleyes::eek:
 
Not to make light of your situation, but dimpling headers is a common practice and normal problem on traditional V8's. I guess we can't possibly hope to have better luck than them.... :rolleyes::eek:
It does seem like an awful thing to do especially when they are coated.It will ruin the coating won't it?One thing I've learned is that the exhaust systems available for this car don't fit as advertised and if anything is overpriced it's the exhaust.I paid something like 1100.00 for downtubes,cats, and the complete setup.It wasn't mandrel bent and needed lots of "adjustments" to make it fit.It just seems like for the money it leaves alot to be desired.
 
The kooks longtubes recently installed on my 91 had clearance issues with the steering shaft too. One of the primary tubes was rubbing against the plastic sleeve that covers that portion of the steering shaft and was melting it. It also kept that side from bolting up tight and sealing,so it had to be removed and reinstalled to correct the resulting exhaust leak.

It was necessary to remove the plastic sleeve on the steering shaft and ding the header tube slightly to get the needed clearance. They are a very tight fit and if doing it over, I would use the mid length headers like I had and change the socket and flange connection to a v-band.

One other thing about the longtubes that I wasn't happy to learn, is that if you need to remove the transmission, the headers have to be removed first because the collectors (3" on mine) wrap around the bell housing.

David
 
One other thing about the longtubes that I wasn't happy to learn, is that if you need to remove the transmission, the headers have to be removed first because the collectors (3" on mine) wrap around the bell housing.

David

That is part of the reason all headers should be ordered with a slip-on collector. Does Kook's make that an option?
 
When I installed my Kooks longtubes on my 94 SC I had no clearence issues however I did get rid of the rag joint and went to a coupler.

The original full lenght headers were created and fitted to a 93SC. Being that the later model SC's had a different motormount placement then the earlier ones I would think there may be issues. Unsure if Kooks knows about this or not
 
That is part of the reason all headers should be ordered with a slip-on collector. Does Kook's make that an option?

Casey,

As far as I know they are only offered with the 2.5" or 3" collector with a standard 3 bolt flange. The 3 bolt flange is one of the reasons I wanted the longtubes....I just hate the two bolt ball and socket connection on the mid length.

David
 
That is part of the reason all headers should be ordered with a slip-on collector. Does Kook's make that an option?
Race headers are made that way. Some street headers are too but then you have leaking issues (remember the back pressure) and the resulting incorrect AFR at idle due to leaking pipes sending false information to the O2 sensors.
 
They are a very tight fit and if doing it over, I would use the mid length headers like I had and change the socket and flange connection to a v-band.

Bingo! That is exactly what I am going to do, I'm also going to try to run a short flex pipe after each V-band clamp. I'm getting sick of having to re-tighten the ball and socket fittings every 500 miles or so..

Jeramie
 
Bingo! That is exactly what I am going to do, I'm also going to try to run a short flex pipe after each V-band clamp. I'm getting sick of having to re-tighten the ball and socket fittings every 500 miles or so..

Jeramie

Jeramie,

I wouldn't do the flex sections, because they don't hold up very well and will start leaking before you get 3000 miles on the car. The exhaust hangers will provide enough movement to keep from breaking anything if you use solid rubber motor mounts.

David
 
When my motor mounts were broken, the header hit the steering shaft (especially when i would floor it). When i had the motor mounts replaced, it improved, but i still cut the header and welded in a section of pipe to help it clear the shaft.
 
My midlengths rub on the steering shaft too so its not like its just the long tubes. As far as dimpling them, the pass side did that all on its own at some time during the life of them. I guess that happens when you have a bad engine mount. Now for the v-8 headers needing additional work, thats just poppycock. Mine fit on my Bronco with ease. There is not a clearance issue. I can even get inside of the engine and work on it if I please:D

Chris
 
My midlengths rub on the steering shaft too so its not like its just the long tubes. As far as dimpling them, the pass side did that all on its own at some time during the life of them. I guess that happens when you have a bad engine mount. Now for the v-8 headers needing additional work, thats just poppycock. Mine fit on my Bronco with ease. There is not a clearance issue. I can even get inside of the engine and work on it if I please:D

Chris

Chris,

My Kooks mid length headers had good clearance from everything and didn't require any rework.

David
 
Now for the v-8 headers needing additional work, thats just poppycock. Mine fit on my Bronco with ease. There is not a clearance issue. I can even get inside of the engine and work on it if I please:D

Chris
Nice choice of words there. If you worked on things other than your Bronco you'd know that header clearance is often an issue. I have a set of Hooker Competition headers in the shop right now where one tube is hitting the oil filter. Ever have to index a starter to clear tubes? Do you even know what I'm talking about? Why do you think they make indexable starters in the first place? How about shorty spark plugs? Ever have to use a wrench to install spark plugs (as oppposed to a socket)? What about having to dimple the tubes just to get a bolt in there in the first place? These are common problems and are the result of headers being welded up by real people using jigs that move over time, get bent, or aren't made right in the first place.

Again, not to make light of anyone's issues but $600 for a set of headers is not that expensive. Sure you can get headers for your 78 Bronco for $99 but you are getting junk in the first place. A good header such as a Hooker Super Competition or a Hedman Husler will run $500-800 and won't come with any coating either. They do normally fit pretty good though.
 
I put longtubes on my old 2000 mustang gt. They were a tight fit and came with one of the pipes dented to clear the shaft as well. I put the locking hardware to mount them and on one of the holes I had to use a different bolt because it would not go in beside the pipe. Finally, to change the clutch, they had to be at least loosened to get the tranny out.
 
You run into these issues mostly with older cars. Usually a combination of vehicle tolerences, motor swaps, non oem parts such as motor mounts and such that may shift header positioning. Also some of these headers have been designed many years ago and could use an update.

I can honestly say with every header I have ever run on my fox stangs has fit perfectly without a hitch..Worst case scenario is when each port has an individual flange and you need to yank on em a bit to get the bolts in.
 
Back
Top