Removing EEC/Computer 89-93

getblown

Registered User
I searched and found one thread that was a little iffy on understanding so I'll post up what I have done today to remove the Auto EEC out of my 93 and replace it with my Manual 93 EEC after my Auto to Manual swap.

TOOLS: - 7mm and 10mm socket, small extention.

1. Disconnect Battery

2. Remove Passenger side Kick panel and black panel behind kick panel (approximatly the same size/shape). Both have pins, outside panel has two "christmas tree" pins, one by the top of the panel and one by the back towards the carpet and the back panel has one black one (its probably going to break). With these two removed you should see a hole in the body where several connectors are and the bottom connection and bolt of the EEC.

3. Remove the contents of the glove box and drop the glove box down past its lowest normal points, pushing the holding tabs inwards to bring it out of the dash so you can see the black plastic panel covering the EEC as well as the white plastic holder for the EEC.

4. At the bottom of the EEC there is a brass looking bolt the bottom of the EEC, this has to be removed to remove the computer. Remove the 10mm bolt at the bottom. It is relatively long and might give you minimal trouble removing it. Pull the connector away from the EEC.

5. Back to that white holder, at the bottom closest to the glovebox, there is a 7mm bolt holding what was quoted by someone as the "foot" of the holder. There is a hole in the black plastic piece covering the EEC use this to access the 7mm "foot" bolt. Remove that bolt. Now you should be able to freely move the "foot" of the holder and be able to gently slide the EEC down through the bottom of the dash without a problem.

6. Slide the new EEC into the spot where the old one was and place back that 7mm bolt through the "foot" of the holder.

7. Replace the connector at the bottom of the EEC making sure to put it back in as straight and gently as possible as to not damage any of the pins in the EEC. Replace the 10mm bolt and tighten it down snugly.

Note-This 10mm bolt will pull the connector into the EEC, so dont force it
Note-If this 10mm bolt is not replaced, the engine will not start as it is a ground for the computer.

8. I suggest leaving all of your interior panels off until you know for sure you have no problems with your new/new-used EEC.

9. Reconnect Battery.

Note-I read somewhere that it is reccomended that once the car starts, to help the computer relearn basic idle and such, it is good to drive it at highway speeds (55mph ish) to aid in the relearning process.

9. Once you are satisfied with the car running right, replace interior panels and your glove box, your glove box "junk" and then resume driving.

Joe Andrews

P.S. Note-Putting a chip in, just follow the same directions only at the top of the EEC, there is a small rubber "gromet"/dust sheild to close off the open hole in the EEC. Remove and install chip (chip should just slide on to now open connector) and replace carefully back into the holder making sure not to damage chip or bend/mangle anything in the process.


Anybody to add anything or has this been written up and I just missed it?
 
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Why do you feel you need to replace the EEC with the manual one? Is the auto one not working?

Frit
 
You don't need to is what I'm thinking I'm getting at unless you fry yours then you can swap in either and it'll work.

There's a slight difference in the tune between each one to handle how fast the motor comes back down to idle and a couple of other settings but one has no advantage over the other. Use the money and put it towards a chip-n-tune is what I would recommend.

Frit
 
You don't need to is what I'm thinking I'm getting at unless you fry yours then you can swap in either and it'll work.

There's a slight difference in the tune between each one to handle how fast the motor comes back down to idle and a couple of other settings but one has no advantage over the other. Use the money and put it towards a chip-n-tune is what I would recommend.

Frit

Well, you might not have to and I didnt have to, but I did and for 2 reasons at the least.

1. When I would back up in reverse and then put it in a foward gear or nuetral, it would lock the doors.

2. My RPMs would drop when i put it in gear.

I'm sure something else would pop up along with the 130mph govorner on the Auto EEC vs. the ungovorned Manual EEC

Besides I already bought the part so its no biggie. I dont want it to turn into an argument, but I just changed it for those reasons.
 
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