Rad Fans

coolhand

Registered User
Is it reasonable to remove the one fan now in place on the rad and replaced it with 2 slightly smaller ones in order to move more air?
Just a thought.

Matt
 
I guess it depends on how much cfm the two smaller fans has compared to the stock one, with that said it is my opinion that the stock rad fan works great for our cars and you should let it be.:)
 
It would depend on what amount of air the 2 smaller fans can move. I bet you can make some room and make engine compartment look better. Making up a new shoud will look better than the stock fan for sure. Do you have a fan(s) in mind matt?
 
Ryan
I guess I should of asked how many CFM the present fan pulls. I want to wire it so I can run it remotely as well. A buddy of mine does fabulous metal work and he and I have been discussing the same idea. He just picked a new 3-core rad for his '68 Firebird and is installing a big block(355) into the "bird on the weekend. I need to get a better CAI as well. Might help to get the airsilencer out of the way as well. Would be nice to actually be able to hear the blower. I had my springs delivered by Bruce today and will have them installed on Friday as well as an alignment done. With these smaller tires on, you could stick your head in the tire gap. I have to pick and chose the work right now. The brakes will have to wait until I get the right tires and rims, so the exhaust will be the next change. Car is running beautifully. Removed the alarm system. It had some problems so I called Clifford. They sent me the installation info, but one of the techs siad it was in older system and any faults it had might be beyond repair. Couldnt beleive the amout of wiring, alarms and relays involved. Had to rewire the ignition as it had a cut off switch on place as well. The stereo is out of the car so I now have a useable trunk. The wiring was butchered to the radio, so i will rewire it. Just want a CDplayer and one of my co-workers at NASCAR deals with SIRIUS, so will get that so I can listen to the NASCAR channel 24 hrs a day!!!!!!!!
This car is a lot of fun, shes pretty and I am glad I got her.

Matt
CoolHand
 
Since my response was totally ignored until Ryans post :) allow me to ask......whats the problem with the stock rad fan? There are tons of people out there running 350+rwhp with a stock rad fan with no cooling issues? Just trying to understand what the problem is.........
 
Since my response was totally ignored until Ryans post :) allow me to ask......whats the problem with the stock rad fan? There are tons of people out there running 350+rwhp with a stock rad fan with no cooling issues? Just trying to understand what the problem is.........

Maybe it does't look to pretty for MAtt?:rolleyes:
 
I guess it depends on how much cfm the two smaller fans has compared to the stock one, with that said it is my opinion that the stock rad fan works great for our cars and you should let it be.:)

I read your response, and it wasnt ignored. I am just exploring options. I am aware that overheating is a big problem with these cars, and I would like to avoid them if possible. It just seems to me that if I can move a larger amount of air across the rad, than it cant be anything but good for the engine.
Didnt mean to 'dis you.

Matt
 
airflow not how many cfm a fan can pull or push ..though the figure sure could be usefull...putting smaller fans in could [COULD] have a negative effect ..and block the airflow going through the rads ..@ higher speeds ...low speed seems to be where ..the problem is ... a/c on...temp well into the 30's ..idling in traffic ...very little coolant flow from low rpm ...and no air flow ...think I recall the fans don't come on above 45 mph ... dave
 
If that is the case, and I know it is having travelled one day in and around TO in the car, watching the temp guage bounce around like my chequebook, would it not make sense to have a larger flow of air with a remote switch to turn it on. I know this has probably been rehashed many times, but I am a new owner.

Matt
 
Matt,
All my SC's highway cruise (2100-2500 RPM) with the temp gauge sitting on the "M" in NORM - AC on or off - regardless of whether it's 1 degree or 29 degrees outside. When I come down to idle (traffic etc.) the temp actually drops to the "O" when the stock fan kicks in. I've never had an overheating issue with the factory engineered cooling system running a 180 degree thermostat. I don't drive 'em in winter, so don't seasonally change thermostats.

There's only so much surface area on a stock rad, so there is an inherent limitation. If you're concerned with bringing the temp down, I figure you'd need to have a custom built 4 core or even 5 core rad to increase the cooling surface available. Same principle as a double core IC.

Bruce
 
Bruce et al
This is the kind of info I am seeking. I am unsure of the numbers the car is supposed to run at(maybe I need a set of aftermarket guages). Realizing these cars do run hotter, and having only the LX to compare it to, the temp has never exceeded the M in norm, so it sounds like it is functioning correctly. Thanks to all for the info. Cant see spending big bucks on a rad if its not needed.
The work and the learning continues.

Matt
 
Matt;
When we went to Dave for a tune last month I had him reset the temp trigger points for my rad fan to lower temps. We have two speed fans with two different temp triggers. If you go to a 180 degree tstat you should go in to your tune and reset the the fan temp or the net result will be higher running temps, just as Bruce seems to be seeing. Sorry Bruce but it sounds like your car is running warmer than it should. Did you have the tune changed for the t'stat? If so, my appologies. Anyway Matt, just thought I would add my small change to your thinking.
Alan
 
I read your response, and it wasnt ignored. I am just exploring options. I am aware that overheating is a big problem with these cars, and I would like to avoid them if possible. It just seems to me that if I can move a larger amount of air across the rad, than it cant be anything but good for the engine.
Didnt mean to 'dis you.

Matt

Matt, I was just messin around.....


don't know how much you care for the AC but if you don't, pull the condenser.

With no condenser blocking air flow, a stock system running properly, with a chip to control the fans and a lower t-stat will never overheat....imo
 
Al - all three of my SC's run those temps in those conditions. I just ran a 900 km trip (98% highway cruising) this weekend past and my '93 ran exactly the same temps regardless of outside temperature. It also gave me a little over 620 kms to the tank with the engine rotating between 2100 and 2500 RPM. Quite pleased.

No, I haven't "tuned" my cars as they are generally bone stockers and perform to my satisfaction as engineered by Ford.

Matt - Your SC operating temperature appears to be normal. However, with a new car that someone else has maintained, I would do a flush and fill to satisfy my doubts and know how old my coolant is.

Bruce
 
Matt, as we discussed on the phone today, and Alan has mentioned, getting the fan settings in the EEC lowered are usually good enough to keep the temps down on our cars.


cheers
Ed N.
 
As was mentioned, get a chip and get the fan on temps lowered and then you can run a 180 tstat as well. Right now your puller fan will come on at 220F when your speed is below 48 mph and the front pusher fan will come on at 228F. With a 180 tstat normally the goal would be to set the fan on at 190 and the front one to come on at 198.

Also make sure you have the air dam installed on the car underneath the bumper so air can be deflected up. Without that air dam, the temp will keep rising at highway speeds.

Frit
 
I changed every single fluid in the car after purchase, including some water wetter in the coolant. Maybe I am anal, but just being careful. I waited a long time for this car.

Matt
 
condenser can get all smashed up fins all bent up .. first in line for rocks and all other road junk and cut down the air flow ...through the rad and taxing the cooling system ...even more ....Matt

Bruce you to may want to look into this as well ....running @ M in NORM is not right on the hwy...and fan comes on if you slow down ..not dissapating the heat ...the way it should ...what is 2100-2500 RPM in klms .. i did the London to Kingston and back... trip many time traveling @130 -140klm with fishes out front 476 klms one way and a tank of gas ..I could never get what you got out of a tank of gas ....even if I tryed ...sounds sort of like a lean condition ..but if both cars are the same ...it just don't make sense to me ....dave
 
Dave,
It's a '93 5 gear with 3:27 pumpkin, down tubes, perf cats, Borla resonator, no muffs. Plugs and wires considered new. Fresh 5W30 oil change. It also has a 73mil C&L MAF and a 10% steel pulley, but those weren't "used" during this experiment. The tires I was running were 225/50/16 on stock rims so they were slightly shorter than stock. GPS indicated 110 km/hr, speedo 131 km/hr. All highway. Full tank to the top with Sunoco 94. Drove like an old man (well I am an old man, but not as old as Matt) in the right lane just to see how far I could go.

I read an article in one of the original SCCoA paper publications, Charging Thunder, that these engines deliver the best efficiency running in the 2200-2600 range. It appears to be true.

Just went through E-Testing two weeks ago with really low numbers. Lean may be why.... :confused: I should get a professional tune done to compliment those minor mods.

I don't track my SC's. I drive them for sheer pleasure so modifying for those tenths of a second gains is not in my baliwick.

Bruce
 
Sorry guys, my posted numbers are wrong. I indicated 620 Kms and it was actually 520 kms to a tank. :eek:

Still reasonable mileage.

Some knobber went and put the "5" key next the "6" key on my keyboard.

Bruce
 
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