ARP Head Stud Install Guide

Toms-SC

Toms-SC

Registered User
Need some help here. I'm reinstalling my new heads but I've thrown out the directions on how to install them. I'm looking for the order and torque specs. Help!
 
Install order is the same as factory. Torque specs can be found at the arp website, and they tell you the difference for the final torque if your using the molly lube or oil.

Frit
 
Chase threads with M11x1.5. Install short studs on bottom using some ARP thread sealer finger tight, install long studs on the top. Torque heads to 45-65-85 using ARP moly lube on the threads. Retorque the heads at 85 after wating a few hours.
 
you must blow out the thread holes as well. Lower studs need to go all the way into the hole. Otherwise you'll have issues getting the exhaust manifolds on.
 
If your buying something, get a thread chase for that tap size rather than an actual tap. It's setup a little looser so there is less chance of cutting new threads accidentally.
 
if all else fails and you can't find that tap size

even though it might not be proper, you could all-ways use one of the head bolts, to run the threads, along with some long q-tips, to get the bottoms, and white paper towls or white rags, until they show clean

this should be done by hand, no tools are involved or at least shouldn't be
 
cbt said:
if all else fails and you can't find that tap size

even though it might not be proper, you could all-ways use one of the head bolts, to run the threads, along with some long q-tips, to get the bottoms, and white paper towls or white rags, until they show clean

this should be done by hand, no tools are involved or at least shouldn't be
Click to expand...

I have used this method before, but i take a cut off wheel and cut 3 lines down the length of the threads to catch the dirt.
 
Can anybody else verify these torque specs? ARP does not have our kit listed on their torque table!
 
Tommy

On the ARP head stud intalling I used Fel-Pro muti layer head gaskets on standerd build you need to use the ARP moly lube. Our normal torque is 45-55-65-75-85 foot pounds of torque you do know the right torque pattern right? I now use Donovan head stud and main studs and DRE main support

If you need more in depth info PM me please we build race engines like to see you do this task right
 
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Hey Jim,

Yes we got the torque order down proper. Just wanted to double check the torque specs. I thought 85 foot pounds was a little much and I'm slightly scared.

Thanks Jim
 
You don't want to torque them in 10lb increments, you need to do it in 20. With the 10lb increment you will just have enough toruqe to overcome the thread friction and not get proper torque on the fastener even when using moly lube. I torqued my heads to 90 last year using standard Fel Pro gaskets, doing 50-70-90.
 
rzimmerl said:
You don't want to torque them in 10lb increments, you need to do it in 20. With the 10lb increment you will just have enough toruqe to overcome the thread friction and not get proper torque on the fastener even when using moly lube. I torqued my heads to 90 last year using standard Fel Pro gaskets, doing 50-70-90.
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Remember

Your dealing with aluminum heads not steel going in 10lb increments when you torque the heads down will not cause distoration on the head serface its a more even torque. Steel heads yes its ok to torque in 20lb increments
 
Your dealing with aluminum heads not steel going in 10lb increments when you torque the heads down will not cause distoration on the head serface its a more even torque. Steel heads yes its ok to torque in 20lb increments
Click to expand...

Its a simple matter of proper fastener torque methods. With the 10lb increment you will barely even exert enough force to overcome the friction of the thread engagement and the surface to surface contact of the nut to washer, to actually even move the nut. Thus resulting in improper torque on the fastener.
 
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