blackstalion232
Registered User
what is the max od pully that i can put on a stock motor. also what are some good upgrades that i can do right when i get my motor its out of a 94 or 95 any help would be great
od pullies
- Thread starter blackstalion232
- Start date
the-big-e
Registered User
I would say a 5% would be alright.....
Some guys are running 10% with no problems.....
When you start getting up around those numbers, it would be best to get a better flowing exhaust system.....
The best this you can do is port the collector at the ends of the exhaust manifolds.....
Some guys are running 10% with no problems.....
When you start getting up around those numbers, it would be best to get a better flowing exhaust system.....
The best this you can do is port the collector at the ends of the exhaust manifolds.....
blackstalion232
Registered User
the car has i belive like 106ooo i was thinking about getting a diffrent pully also what about getting headers instead of porting the collectors what about diffrent tb and injectors how much would that help. sry but iam new to the whole forced induction thing
First priority for you is to get the exhaust done, mainly get rid of that resonator if nothing else. No need for headers, there's guys running well over 300rwhp running off the stock manifolds that have had the exit ported.
At maximum, don't run more than 5% OD, especially with a stock intercooler with a fan. As that stands your still going to lose some power for any sprints longer than about 10 seconds because everything will get so hot quickly and the computer will pull timing.
Finally, before you go out and start buying up stuff to install, pick a target goal for your car such as 300rwhp and stick to it until you reach it. With a known target, there's plenty of knowledge here from several folks that can help you get there without wasting money on needless upgrades that won't get you anything.
Fraser
At maximum, don't run more than 5% OD, especially with a stock intercooler with a fan. As that stands your still going to lose some power for any sprints longer than about 10 seconds because everything will get so hot quickly and the computer will pull timing.
Finally, before you go out and start buying up stuff to install, pick a target goal for your car such as 300rwhp and stick to it until you reach it. With a known target, there's plenty of knowledge here from several folks that can help you get there without wasting money on needless upgrades that won't get you anything.
Fraser
blackstalion232
Registered User
will i be able to use my stock mustang exhaust after with no resonator on the supercoupe exhaust manifolds i would like to be at the 300rwhp and about the same torque what could i do to acheive this goal
kenewagner
Registered User
You can bolt on just about everything there is available for the SC engine in performance mods and not make 300wrhp. Only two ways you hit and or exceed 300 at the wheels. Installing a cam and performance heads will get you there with a minimum amount of add ons. The other is install a twin screw blower like one of Dave Dalkes ARs and a minimum of add on mods. Doing the cam and heads or just a twin screw blower you will still need at a minimum the following
1 A free flowing exhaust
2 Bigger injectors to meet the fuel needs
3 A better IC to cool the mix
4 A bigger TB and MAF to get the air into the blower
5 A chip to reprogram your computer and a tuner to program it
6 A 5% J/S pulley at most
Dont think anyone has hit the 300 mark though without a cam & head. An AR on a fairly stock engine will be a big jump from stock but regardless a chip and tune is needed once you start getting further away from the stock settings. Cost money to go fast
Ken
Toms-SC
Registered User
Interesting. Do you know of anybody running Mustang V6 Long tubes?
Toms-SC
Registered User
Ah. Let me know how it turns out. You can get the 'Pypes' long tubes for $175~!!!
Flex
Registered User
I bought them from a guy who intended to use them on an SC. He said the passenger bolted it without issue but the drivers side had the ubes running where the steering shaft is. From a preliminary look. I think I can cat them at the collector and at the first curve and alter the pipes to go around the shaft.
kenewagner
Registered User
Take some pictures of your work in progress and what you final solution is. I am intrested in that project considering the price of Kooks
Ken
blackstalion232
Registered User
that would be cool ide like to see that as well how would a front mount fair instead of the stock location for the intercooler also is there ny kits for the sc to relocate it to the front
kenewagner
Registered User
blackstalion232
Registered User
do you know what brand makes them
kenewagner
Registered User
Magnum Powers. You can check it out there, or Supercoupe unlimited or even Spinning Wheels. They all sell it for about the same amount. It is pricey but it has no competition to force a lower price. Go to the search button at the top of the page and type FMIC or Front Mount Intercooler. Page after page of reading, pros and cons. The search button is your friend for information
Ken
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Stupid Canuck
Registered User
At the beginning, it seems you can just spin the rotors faster and make hp but you usually end up with detonation and damage, late models in particular. Even after a good exhaust and IC, a faster pulley is the last bolt-on I would suggest on non-ported heads and stock M90. Maybe just an early model pulley which is about 3.5%. Ford came surprisingly close to the edge with these Eaton blowers, which were origionally intended for 8-10 psi boost.
Did a dyno run with both 5% and 10% and it only went from 278 to 287 rwhp with the mods at the time, including porting and cam. Although you do tend to feel the 10% because of the low rpm torque along with more blower whine.
250 rwhp is much more attainable.
Did a dyno run with both 5% and 10% and it only went from 278 to 287 rwhp with the mods at the time, including porting and cam. Although you do tend to feel the 10% because of the low rpm torque along with more blower whine.
250 rwhp is much more attainable.