Aligment. Problems Still.....ARGH

Back of the radio was blown
Aftermarket Amp had a blown fuse too.

Replaced both and radio is back to normal.


Aftermarket fuel pump relay harness, that fuse was fine. Inline amp fuse was fine too.


So anyone know where this inline blower fuse is located I too out the glove compartment and did not see it there. Is it behind the HVAC control.
 
Back of the radio was blown
Aftermarket Amp had a blown fuse too.

Replaced both and radio is back to normal.


Aftermarket fuel pump relay harness, that fuse was fine. Inline amp fuse was fine too.


So anyone know where this inline blower fuse is located I too out the glove compartment and did not see it there. Is it behind the HVAC control.

Quoted from my above post....worth a shot. It's def. located before the blower and before the control pannel.
No idea to be honest....I would just start from the ignition switch and try to trace that grey/yellow wire as far as you can to the selector switch. It might be located right behind the heater control panel on the dash.
 
Found it. I was to the right of the fuse panel under the drivers dash.

Little cap to cover the fuse. Black. I changed it and I think all items on the car work. I hope the Alky kit did not get damaged that would really stink.

So my car is 99% operational just need an aligment. And that pipe moved away from the floor I fear the car will catch on fire or someting.



Two good things.

Car feels very stong now no miss or hessitation.
Nittos are doing their job no hop in hot weather and clutch barks second with ease.

One bad thing the condenser is too small for 95 degree weather and standing still. It only works ok if I am cruising above 30mph. Plus side is that the car does not seem to overheat.

Maybe next year I will try out the same size three row or maybe add an inch to the bottom.


Maybe the car will be good this time and let me enjoy some nice weather without something happening.

:D
 
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I have a car here with the MPFMIC, it's a Cougar, but it makes 18psi with an MPX @ 25%OD, full AC core, functional AC and no pusher fan. Of course it hasn't been warm here (70's) but it runs @ 185-195 deg all the time. It has never reached 200 deg.

Key points: ditch the MP fan shroud and mount the fan directly to the radiator.

Make sure all your ducting and shrouding is in place. The AC core should properly seal the rad support forcing air to go through the cores. The radiator and IC should also be sealed to the cores in front of it.

Since you blew headgaskets, it might be a good idea to check your radiator for blocked cores. I seem to recall that your end tank has ballooned somewhat. David Neibert's end tanks did not balloon, but his core was ruined. You'll have to remove the radiator and hold it up to the light to see if it is ok or not.
 
Ricco,

Did your car run hot with full size condensor? I have that on my list of potential issues.

Yes it did if the AC was on. My car has a perfect AC and temps if below 80-85. 95deg is hot as B A L Ls :eek: But I think you have overheating issues not related to the AC.
I never thought about ditching the MP fan shroud but maybe that might be a good idea. By why do factory cars have fan shrouds and i assume it works better with one if manufactureres go thru the trouble.
 
Yes it did if the AC was on. My car has a perfect AC and temps if below 80-85. 95deg is hot as B A L Ls :eek: But I think you have overheating issues not related to the AC.
I never thought about ditching the MP fan shroud but maybe that might be a good idea. By why do factory cars have fan shrouds and i assume it works better with one if manufactureres go thru the trouble.

It's the design. Look closely at how a factory fan shroud works. Also, the factory fan has about 2x the cfm capability of the skinny fan on the MP setup.
 
Tune is off on the car :( The headers must be doing something. I gotta get this thing redialed in. I dont know why I get myself in these dumb situations.


Some teaser pics for the Haters. :p Notice how close one of the tubes is to the floor corner. Should I take it back?

headersandtubular011.jpg

headersandtubular013.jpg

headersandtubular010.jpg

headersandtubular009.jpg

headersandtubular004.jpg

headersandtubular008.jpg
 
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wow...I love their welding job compared to mine....:rolleyes:

Looks good otherwise. If you're not 100% happy about the exhaust, have them cut it out and re-do it. You paid a lot of money for what you got so it should be up to your standards.

I assume you got the swaybar to clear the shocks ok?
 
wow...I love their welding job compared to mine....:rolleyes:

Looks good otherwise. If you're not 100% happy about the exhaust, have them cut it out and re-do it. You paid a lot of money for what you got so it should be up to your standards.

I assume you got the swaybar to clear the shocks ok?


I took off the shims on the sway again. It was rubbing on the tie rod. So without the shim I hope gets fixed. At the shocks its super close but i dont hear it banging so Im ok with that. One of the exhaust is ok I can put my finger in between the pipe and the floor but the drivers I cannot get my finger in there.

Jay can I borrow you and the QH to log my long and short fuel trims? The car has bad idle characteristics and sometimes stalls. I have not had time to log WOT yet so not sure what that AF is.
 
Just give me a day you want to do it. Some issues however. I don't have a definition file for your car so I think I can only monitor the settings. I won't be able to upload any changes. We'll have to use your SCT software and chip to do that. I've never tried monitoring a car that I don't have a licensed def. file for so it may not work at all.
 
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everything is ready for production....but I'm not...lol:rolleyes:. Still the same deal as before....I finished Ricardo's and have still have at least one more to finish. The other person put down $$ to cover materials so I'll be making one more for sure. I wish I had more time durning the week.
 
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Might want to look at putting that flap back on that goes from under the rad support out to the support bar that runs next to the sway bar. Without that there, you are not going to get good negative pressure on the motor side to suck the air through the rad core etc.

Fraser
 
Rico...With AC off I seem to run at N mayeb higher if its real hot out. WIth AC on it will stay in the middle and then start creeping towards the M and then will go higher and higher.


SO teh only thing I can imagien is my rad is compramised Or I just heat soak everything with AC on that there is no cooling going on
 
I think you and me are on the same page at least today. It got to 98deg on my display and the car with the AC on was creeping up to the red on my gauge. I shut the AC off and it took a while to recover from that spike. Its just too hot for my car and the AC I was just cruising at slow speeds maybe 20-30mph. So the fans should be doing the work at that point. On the highway i have no issues at all for the most part.
I will have to take off my bumper and start to build shrouds and seal the opening around the rad and IC. Take off the MP shroud and the put a lower plate from the rad to the kmember.

Its hard to fix these problems because you only encounter them when the weather gets to this point. Most of the season it runs nice and cool. So motivation to start taking things apart is very low right now. This is also terrible racing weather, The Inlet Charge temp reading were 150deg when stopped. Thats alot of heat even going into the engine. The AR does not help in this department, its funny how it great when its spinning like crazy but generates so much heat when its just barely spinning.


But to add to this my tune is off so maybe that is causing the car to run warmer. The car is running rich between 12-13 AFR at idle and cruising. i have to redial my Long and short trims to get them back to 14.7 which I had before I swapped the headers out. I tell you I wish I had a father that spanked me when i needed it.
 
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strange that your adaptive control isn't correcting the rich condition in closed loop. You on vacation this week?
 
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