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Thread: guys, help with upper control arm...please!

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    9
    Thank you, that's very much appreciated. It's hard to find stuff around here.

    I checked the nut from under the car, and I could see it but I couldn't reach it (I don't have a 3 foot 18mm wrench ). So I ended up doing it from above, but I needed assistance to manipulate the ratchet inside the fender at the same time...
    I put it together with the old bloated bolts and nuts for now. I guess I will have to deal with all the stuff under the hood that I dislodged tomorrow.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    768
    I've done them on two birds now. I pull the strut assembly every time. Once you have the strut out you can hold the 18MM wrench above while you ratchet below. It's difficult but it works. Let me know on the bolts.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bossier City, LA
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    2,156
    Quote Originally Posted by potshotscott View Post
    I've done them on two birds now. I pull the strut assembly every time. Once you have the strut out you can hold the 18MM wrench above while you ratchet below. It's difficult but it works. Let me know on the bolts.
    Or you can, you know, leave the flags on, and then all you need to do is use the 18mm ratcheting box wrench ...

    RwP

  4. #19
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    Mar 2017
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    Sweden
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    Quote Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
    Or you can, you know, leave the flags on, and then all you need to do is use the 18mm ratcheting box wrench ...

    RwP
    Yeah, I did on the front one, but that didn't work on the rear one.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Oregon
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    768
    Quote Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
    Or you can, you know, leave the flags on, and then all you need to do is use the 18mm ratcheting box wrench ...

    RwP
    I would have had I had an 18mm ratcheting box wrench.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Tidewater area, Virginia
    Posts
    227
    Quote Originally Posted by onkelmicke View Post


    And no I didn't get a new one. Where would I get one of those bolts?
    you don't. There are maybe 5 or six OEM in the country as of last year. A new bolt should have been included with the UCA, did you keep the packaging?
    My Garage

    95 5spd Pearl White SC, "Millennium TBird" (erst Dr. Jekyll)
    95 Automatic Red SC

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bossier City, LA
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    2,156
    Quote Originally Posted by onkelmicke View Post
    Yeah, I did on the front one, but that didn't work on the rear one.
    Quote Originally Posted by potshotscott View Post
    I would have had I had an 18mm ratcheting box wrench.
    Onkelmicke - I was cussin' the accumulator for the A/C, and the Teves Mk II I had when I did my first LCAs, but otherwise, it was doable.

    Potschotscott - for your next time, GET ONE. I'm surprised you even tried without; it's almost impossible to get into the side at the ABS unit on a 1st gen WITH it, and I'd hate to try a 1st gen WITHOUT it.

    RwP

  8. #23
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Oregon
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    768
    I have two 1994 birds - maybe that's why I managed without. That or I used to do Avionics in the Navy. I swear some of the stuff was hovered/levitated and then they built the aircraft around it.

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northr..._EA-6B_Prowler

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Sweden
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    9
    Quote Originally Posted by RalphP View Post
    Onkelmicke - I was cussin' the accumulator for the A/C, and the Teves Mk II I had when I did my first LCAs, but otherwise, it was doable.

    Potschotscott - for your next time, GET ONE. I'm surprised you even tried without; it's almost impossible to get into the side at the ABS unit on a 1st gen WITH it, and I'd hate to try a 1st gen WITHOUT it.

    RwP
    I will have to do the drivers side when I can get the LH UCA for it. And yeah the ABS looks to be in the way.
    Did you manage to get the correct torque on the nut with the flag left on the bolt?

    Onkel

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bossier City, LA
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    2,156
    Quote Originally Posted by onkelmicke View Post
    I will have to do the drivers side when I can get the LH UCA for it. And yeah the ABS looks to be in the way.
    Did you manage to get the correct torque on the nut with the flag left on the bolt?

    Onkel
    What I did was to torque the front one to the bottom of the torque range, then use my ratcheting box wrench to snug it 1/8 turn.

    I then tightened the REAR nut to the same "feel".

    (I also cheated some; since I was reusing the old bolts, I use Blue LokTite(tm) on them.)

    One more thing is to either do this before attaching the ball joint to the spindle, so you can position it straight out and preload the bushings properly (the way the factory service manual says), or to do it after the car is sitting on the ground (and leave them loose until then), again, to make sure the bushings are preloaded properly.

    (I like the "Point'em straight out" method myself; if you break the flags off, you SURE can't get it right sitting on the ground!)

    RwP

  11. #26
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    5,648
    Quote Originally Posted by onkelmicke View Post
    I will have to do the drivers side when I can get the LH UCA for it. And yeah the ABS looks to be in the way.
    Did you manage to get the correct torque on the nut with the flag left on the bolt?

    Onkel
    Torque the nut.. if you can. Otherwise what I did was using a 3" extension, and 6pt socket, reached behind the spring with the ratchet and tightend it up as much as I could, then with the torque wrench. I put a loose monkey wrench on the nut to just sort of hold it still while I torqued the bolt.

    Oh, and on the side with the ABS, I groped around with my fingers and guided the big monkey wrench onto the nut. Then let go and torqued the bolt. It held well enough to get the job done.

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