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Thread: accumulator instalation

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    brevard north carolina
    Posts
    13

    accumulator instalation

    just got the accumulator in the other day and before we try and put it in is there any tricks or anything special that needs to be done to switch them or is it pretty straighforward? thanks guys

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    6,455
    Good news is, you don't have to bleed the system when changing out the accumulator.

    I recommend removing at least the driver's side cowling to help gain access, etc. You'll need the proper driver to engage the top of the unit (8mm?) - clean out that hole good first so you have proper purchase when turning.

    Remove wipers, rubber trim, and driver side cowling (screws from top/corner and one horizontal inside) etc. first to give yourself more room to work...

    Pay attention to these points:

    • Be sure to bleed down/off any residual pressure before removing the old accumulator. It can take dozens of pumps on the brake pedal (key off of course) to get this done, so take this seriously. Wrap a towel you don't need around the base of the accumulator to catch any spray that may result from remaining pressurized fluid.

    • Do not leave the system open and use care to not let any dirt/debris fall into the open port. Have the replacement accumulator, tools etc. ready to go.

    • Be sure the replacement accumulator has a fresh brake fluid safe (EPDM) o-ring (Size: -111) ...coat it with clean brake fluid before installing.

    • Start it with your hands to be sure to properly engage the threads and do not force it. Tighten the replacement accumulator as tight as you can with normal tools. Do not over-torque. Some replacement accumulators don't have a tool purchase, so a strap wrench is your best friend in those cases.

    • When the replacement is installed, fill the brake fluid reservoir near to the top with the correct fluid, replace the cap and turn the ignition key to run. It can take a surprising amount of brake fluid to fill an accumulator so have plenty on hand - don't let this procedure empty the reservoir. Wait for the motor to stop running and the light(s) to go out (1 minute or so?), indicating that pressure has built up and shut off the ignition. Check for any lights and if they don't go out stop...don't let the motor run too long to prohibit damage from overheating.

    • Check for leaks and repeat the key on procedure to confirm the pressure is holding and building as normal...check for proper warning light operation again.

    • Check the brake fluid level with key off and the unit charged....add or remove any fluid required to set the level at the indicated marks on the side of the reservoir.

    • Test drive with caution until you feel the system is operating properly. Watch the level for a day or so and re-check for leaks etc. before enjoying your work.

    Replacing an accumulator is a relatively straight forward procedure, esp. after doing it once. Just like any brake work, tho, it is important to use care in the process.
    Last edited by KMT; 02-14-2014 at 10:43 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Charlotte, NC
    Posts
    8,159
    That was a very good walk thru of the installation process....

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Metropolis, IL
    Posts
    884

    thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    Good news is, you don't have to bleed the system when changing out the accumulator.

    I recommend removing at least the driver's side cowling to help gain access, etc. You'll need the proper driver to engage the top of the unit (8mm?) - clean out that hole good first so you have proper purchase when turning.

    Remove wipers, rubber trim, cowling (screws from top and one horizontal inside) etc. first to give yourself more room to work...

    Pay attention to these points:

    Be sure to bleed down/off any residual pressure before removing the old accumulator. It can take dozens of pumps on the brake pedal (key off of course) to get this done, so take this seriously. Wrap a towel you don't need around the base of the accumulator to catch any spray that may result from remaining pressurized fluid.

    Do not leave the system open and use care to not let any dirt/debris fall into the open port. Have the replacement accumulator, tools etc. ready to go.

    Be sure the replacement accumulator has a fresh o-ring...coat it with clean brake fluid before installing.

    Tighten the replacement accumulator as tight as you can with normal tools. Do not over-torque. Start it with your hands to be sure to properly engage the threads and do not force it.

    When the replacement is installed, fill the brake fluid reservoir to the top with the correct fluid, replace the cap and turn the ignition key to run. It can take a surprising amount of brake fluid to fill an accumulator so have plenty on hand - don't let this procedure empty the reservoir. Wait for the motor to stop running and the light(s) to go out (1 minute or so?), indicating that pressure has built up and shut off the ignition. Check for any lights and if they don't go out stop...don't let the motor run too long to prohibit damage from overheating.

    Check for leaks and repeat the key on procedure to confirm the pressure is holding and building as normal...check for proper warning light operation again.

    Check the brake fluid level with key off and the unit charged....add or remove any fluid required to set the level at the indicated marks.

    Test drive with caution until you feel the system is operating properly. Watch the level for a day or so and re-check for leaks etc. before enjoying your work.

    Replacing an accumulator is a relatively straight forward procedure, esp. after doing it once. Just like any brake work, tho, it is important to use care in the process.
    Just what I needed to know. I am very thankful to be on a site that helps as much as you all do!
    US Navy Veteran Retired Best Dyno 458HP 556TQ
    "I've done so much with so little for so long that now I can do anything with nothing."

    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/garage.p..._view&id=28414B

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Metropolis, IL
    Posts
    884

    Done

    That was too easy! Thanks for the help. You guys are the best!
    US Navy Veteran Retired Best Dyno 458HP 556TQ
    "I've done so much with so little for so long that now I can do anything with nothing."

    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/garage.p..._view&id=28414B

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    63
    This is good set of instructions. Very helpful for me.

    It is important to use EPDM o-rings not the standard buna-n. They will last longer and seal better with brake fluid. I got mine from Mcmaster-carr.

    An additional trick is to mark the windshield before removing the wipers so you can get them back in the same place and install them before turning the ignition back on. .

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    6,420
    Quote Originally Posted by hsommer View Post
    An additional trick is to mark the windshield before removing the wipers so you can get them back in the same place and install them before turning the ignition back on. .
    This isn't necessary if your car still has the plastic keyways for the wiper locations Of course, most don't.
    Kurt K (e-mail)
    SCCoA Member #: 443
    '92 SC AOD -- 11.521s @ 116.748mph, 2.0 AR power
    . . . . . . . . . -- 13.547s @ 101.01 mph, only w/ bolt-ons
    '95 SC 5spd -- All Stock, except 17" Simmons wheels.
    '90 SC 35th Anny 5spd -- 3rd owner, 16k miles
    2 '89 XR7 5spd's -- on their way out, really!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    SCCoA Member#1257
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    3,297
    Quote Originally Posted by Kurt K View Post
    This isn't necessary if your car still has the plastic keyways for the wiper locations Of course, most don't.
    plastic keyways???? Don't think i recall seeing any...like evar. Any pix?
    Current: 1993 SC 5.0L Auto Red, 1994 SC 5-speed Teal, 1995 SC 5-speed Chameleon Blue
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    Also: 1992 Feature Mustang Convertible 5-speed Vibrant Red, 1991 BMW 850i 6-speed Red, 1994 BMW 850CSi 6-speed Red

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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Broken Arrow, Ok
    Posts
    195
    Just did mine this last weekend. It was easy and I have good brakes for the first time in years.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Winnipeg, Canada
    Posts
    1
    Where can I get an accumulator in Canada or USA?

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    6,455
    Quote Originally Posted by Motorizer View Post
    Where can I get an accumulator in Canada or USA?
    http://spinningwheels-sc.com

    Says out of stock, due late March, early April, contact Victor and ask if you can get on the list http://spinningwheels-sc.com/hydacaccumulatorballs.aspx
    Last edited by KMT; 02-18-2018 at 12:19 AM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
    Posts
    6

    brake parts needed

    Hello I am working on a 1990 for a friend. I had the brake motor off and had fixed and cleaned up the mating surfaces and reused the square cut o ring. Of course it drips ever so slightly now. Does anyone know what size or part number I need for that? Also there is a junction block mounted a little ways below the booster assy for the rear brake line. It has a switch of sorts in the tee part of the block that is leaking also. Does anyone know a part number for this ? thanks everyone for your time. I can also be texted at 319.531.6399 scott

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    401
    Good evening

    Contact SuperCoupe Performance for new brake pressure switch replacement. https://www.supercoupeperformance.co...ensor_300.jpeg


    Check out the below posts for pump leaking.


    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...s+pump+leaking


    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...ABS-Pump-Motor



    Good Luck.

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