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Thread: Starting my engine rebuild.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Spokane Wa
    Posts
    1,209

    Cool Starting my engine rebuild.

    so I am a new member here and a new SC owner.

    my car is a 1992 SC white, grey leather with 5 speed. purchased for 700 bucks with a "strange noise when motor was warm". so picked up car and when its cold the noise is gone. but when motor warms it knocks badly.

    heads have been re-worked when headgaskets were replaced then noise showed up.

    so... heads are probably good (cross my fingers) and everything else checks out. car has a updated harmonic balancer installed allready so I am good there.

    picked up a short block from another 5 speed car with 300 miles on it. at first i didnt believe it but the story is that the motor was rebuilt at a ford dealership in kent washington and when the customer picked up the car he was mad and did a big smoky burn out accross the parking lot. they voided his warranty on the motor at that time. he then later developed a trans problem (go figure right) and when they wouldnt fix it for him he sold car. then new owner wrecked it after putting in a transmission.... ha ha ha car seems cursed right. so he parts it and I have the short block now.

    cyl look A+ piston tops are clean with some discoloring and say "1.00" on them. havent removed oil pan yet.

    what should I do to prep this short block so the rod bearing, crank bearings hold up a bit better? I mean this seems like a common problem with these motors.

    also i got a fel-pro complete gasket set for the SC is this a good choice for gaskets?

    got a set of fel-pro head bolts also (are they good)

    i have used fel-pro on many other engines and have had very good luck.

    anyway just looking for everyones 2 cents.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio
    Posts
    403

    hope this helps

    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...=king+bearings

    i have this thread saved in my favorites for when i do my rebuild

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Eastern (nee Western) PA
    Posts
    4,993
    Quote Originally Posted by 90turbo1 View Post
    what should I do to prep this short block so the rod bearing, crank bearings hold up a bit better? I mean this seems like a common problem with these motors.

    also i got a fel-pro complete gasket set for the SC is this a good choice for gaskets?

    got a set of fel-pro head bolts also (are they good)

    i have used fel-pro on many other engines and have had very good luck.

    anyway just looking for everyones 2 cents.
    Welcome to the forum!

    I wouldn't say these engines have any problem with rod or crank bearings. They might if you have over 100,000 miles and boost the horsepower significantly ... but what engine would take that abuse?

    The info in that thread is great for a really nice, all bases covered, rebuild.

    Stock Fel-pro gaskets are really good for this car. You can also go with multi-layer steel (MLS) head gaskets if you have the engine apart, but you need to specify that to the decks smoother for the MLS.)
    God bless!!!

    Former Birds:
    1990 SC auto ... red outside, gray cloth inside ... ~225,000 miles ... Sold.
    1990 SC auto ... white outside, gray cloth inside ... ~150,000 miles ... wrecked.
    1989 Base auto ... Crystal Blue metallic outside, dark blue inside ... ~160,000 miles ... Sold.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    17,432
    Highly reccomend ARP studs for a 2.8 chevy v6..Fit perfect and well worth it when compared to the TTY bolts
    They don't call me "SLOWPOKE" for nothin!
    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/garage_v...vehicle&id=110
    Quote Originally Posted by ricardoa1 View Post
    I love the filter. Its pimp. paper element and 10Mircron filtration, 12" long cause size matters.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Spokane Wa
    Posts
    1,209
    Hmmm for some reason i cannot look at that page.

    i have been a member for several weeks now, and paid the dues but cannot access any of the other pages.

    how long does it take to get to look at those pages...

    thanks

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Altoona IA
    Posts
    3,237
    Quote Originally Posted by 90turbo1 View Post
    Hmmm for some reason i cannot look at that page.

    i have been a member for several weeks now, and paid the dues but cannot access any of the other pages.

    how long does it take to get to look at those pages...

    thanks
    That is a post from the members only forums.

    Sometimes they get behind and it may take a few weeks. Technically your not a member until you have a SCCoA Member #: below your user name. When they finally do activate you, your membership starts on that date, so don't worry about being shorted on your 1 year membership. It is well worth the money and the wait.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Jersey Shore, PA
    Posts
    1,875
    Quote Originally Posted by 90turbo1 View Post

    heads have been re-worked when headgaskets were replaced then noise showed up.
    Sounds like someone didn't changed the oil after changing the head gaskets.

    As far as the bottom end on I would replace the bearing for good measure before you drop that in. Just make sure that they are the correct size, the crank may have been cut before.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Spokane Wa
    Posts
    1,209
    Quote Originally Posted by DamonSlowpokeBaumann View Post
    Highly reccomend ARP studs for a 2.8 chevy v6..Fit perfect and well worth it when compared to the TTY bolts
    so the head studs from the 2.8L GM engine will work (arp that is) are the thunderbird ones not available anymore or is it cheaper to get the chevy ones.

    what about rod bolts. stock or arp.

    i am cleaning up everything and I was going to inspect the bearings before the install anyway.

    thanks for the info and the help I will keep posted on here the progress.

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