My latest project

Ddubb said:
.. it's been a learning experience to say the least. :rolleyes:

- Dan
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So I'd really appreciate it if you could come out to my place and supervise getting mine put back together, now that you've learned all you need to know.

Very nice project.
 
Damon - Yes they are 17x9's .. I had to put a 3mm spacer to clear the rim on the spindle.


Platoribs - If you lived closer, I'm sure you wouldnt have any problems getting your car back together. I have a couple projects lined up after this one, next is my cousins truck - 95 S10, 3" body drop .. and my neighbor's 51 Mercury project. Always something new to learn. :D


- Dan
 
Made a little more progress last night - a couple small things that were bothering me.

IMRC's - I had wired a relay to reverse the signal from the EEC for the Mark 8 to use the Cobra electronic actuator. Looks like I wired it backwards - when I put the key in the Run position, the IMRC's were fully opened. Made a quick wire switch at the relay and now they only open up above 3000 RPM's like they should. :D


Fuel Gauge - This one was a little confusing. Since I had rewired the Mark 8 Dash wiring to use a Tbird Gauge cluster - everything was working fine except for the Fuel. It was always reading FULL, which would be great, except my gas tank is almost Empty. I thought the problem had to do with the Anti-Slosh module, it is built into the Tbird cluster and on the Mark it is in the Info center. So I bypassed it at the Info center to only use the one in the cluster. Then I slapped my forehead when I looked at the Mark cluster that had been buried in my parts shed ...

apr1.jpg


Turns out they work Backwards from eachother even though the pins / signal wires are in the same orientation.

So I took the Fuel gauge from the Mark and plugged it into the Tbird cluster ... now it's reading an Empty tank like it should. :rolleyes:

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Slowly getting there .. lots of little things like this to work out.


- Dan
 
Update .. got the transmission working again by replacing it with a different one. :rolleyes:


Next on the list .. should I wing it or not ????


wing1.jpg


This is how it looks now - going to paint the white panels blue to match the car .. no mufflers installed yet, but I might do some cutouts in the rear bumper for some LSC tips ..


wing2.jpg


With the spoiler temporarily on .. before I commit to drilling holes, any opinions ?? :D


- Dan
 
No more opinions on the spoiler ??? I still havent drilled any holes yet .. trying to decide what to do with the rear end - It doesnt have a Thunderbird script on the back of the car ..

apr5.jpg



I got a little more painting done .. fender installed w/ power antenna, door painted, trim, window and 97 door handles installed, gas door painted and mark 8 mirror housing.


- Dan
 
I wrecked mine tonight. I was on my way home with my kids and a big dog appeared in front of the car. Big enough that it smashed my license plate, crushed the pass side head light, header panel, and put a rip in the hood over the light.

Can you show me how you added your own edge to your hood to make it match your gap? I want to do the same.

SWS
 
seawalkersee said:
I wrecked mine tonight. I was on my way home with my kids and a big dog appeared in front of the car. Big enough that it smashed my license plate, crushed the pass side head light, header panel, and put a rip in the hood over the light.

Can you show me how you added your own edge to your hood to make it match your gap? I want to do the same.

SWS
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That sucks .. must have been a really big dog. :eek:

What kind of hood do you have ?? A fiberglass hood, or a steel hood ?? There is a picture on page 3 of what mine looked like - I used a piece of steel brake line and bent it to the shape then matched it to the other side and glassed it in place.


- Dan
 
94-95 SC rear bumper would look sweet.

the SHO spoiler is nice but doesnt fit 100%..Lil fiberglas work youll get it perfect
 
Yeah, it is a glass hood. best way I can describe it is this, where the hood goes over the light, it has a break and is folded down over the center of the light. I will have pix on the midwest forrm where I asked if anyone had a spare OEM header panel. That way, I am not cluttering your thread.

SWS
 
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So I ended up drilling some holes in my trunk and some more bigger holes on the inner side to get to the nuts. :rolleyes:

I re-wired the Tbird tail light harness to the Mark 8 harness .. then I spent about an hour trying to figure out why the rear lights wouldnt work until I found the connector at the dash was not plugged in all the way. :eek: Then I re-wired the trunk lid harnes to the Mark .. decided to use the Tbird light in the trunklid instead of the light in the trunk bay like the Mark had. The Spoiler wiring was added also for the rear mount light ( which was removed from my decklid .. now I have a hole with a spare piece of carpet inside ) .. I just need to drill a hole to run the spoiler harness through the trunk. Also sprayed the rear end with primer. No more white panels on the car.


- Dan
 
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A Mark 8 dash trim, Info center, tin snips, dremel tool ... and an Idea. ;)


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Here is the Info center in the dash .. need to attach the trim piece to the back of the center dash trim piece and paint them Black to match. I was thinking about putting the buttons where they are - I have a spare console top to play with and would trim this down and fiberglass it into the console ( like the nifty coin holders on the 97's .. ) .. the buttons are easy to reach when the shifter is in Drive .. but in Park, they are a little close for comfort.


- Dan
 
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Journey

Dan, what a labor of love. This is sure a project you do because you want to. Have you reached 10,000 man hours yet? A great way to get a very unique, interesting ride. Almost as fun as finding the correct hi-temp paint for a Caddy eng.:) eh?
-Dave
 
cntinuum said:
Dan, what a labor of love. This is sure a project you do because you want to. Have you reached 10,000 man hours yet? A great way to get a very unique, interesting ride. Almost as fun as finding the correct hi-temp paint for a Caddy eng.:) eh?
-Dave
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cad1.jpg


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Wow .. you been reading through my other posts ?? That Cadillac high temp paint took me about a Week to find, I called about 10 different places and finally found Bill Hirsch Auto in New Jersey has it custom made - Its Aircraft paint. Sure does look nice though - good up to 700 degrees it can go from -30 to 500 degrees in a few seconds and not flake the paint off. ;)

I started messing around with Electolysis to remove the rust also - had a hell of a time on the passenger side manifold - it had two broken bolts in the Head, and the studs both broke off on the collector - plus the Heat riser valve literally crumbled into pieces when I took it off the engine.

10,000 hours .. I dont think I have that much time into this Tbird .. yet .. :D


- Dan
 
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Looking great! On a side note, I'm not a fan of hood pins, but since the hood has come off once already I would be worried about the two layers of the hood separating. If they are still bonded good, then you're fine, but if not it would suck.

Mike
 
Lil Mikey said:
Looking great! On a side note, I'm not a fan of hood pins, but since the hood has come off once already I would be worried about the two layers of the hood separating. If they are still bonded good, then you're fine, but if not it would suck.

Mike
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This hood came up THREE times .. once when it was brand new - the hood was not "finished" and the hinges were not recessed into the hood like I did to it - the hood actually stuck up about 1/2" above the fenders, and the hood latch didnt really catch when it flew up the first time, it got the Hood pins and then the hood flew up TWO more times after forgetting to install the stupid pins !!!

It has been bonded back together, hinges recessed and the latch closes VERY tight ( I pull up on it every time I close it out of habit .. ). It should be good for now, but for safety I was going to rivet a steel cable to the bottom of the hood and hook it to something around the latch area.


- Dan
 
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