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Thread: Check me on this BHJ measurement

  1. #1
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    Check me on this BHJ measurement

    Ok, checked the crank diameter, got 1.478. Checked the balancer and got 1.483. So my balancer is .005 bigger. Is that good. I think I read it has to be less than .015? The balancer slides on crank till it hits the key way. I think it needs to be pressed on after that. Also, I need to cut off 1/4 inch off the crank pulley bolts right?



    Thomas

  2. #2
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    Where did you measure the crank snout? Sounds like you need to measure the crank nearer the keyway.

    This is from the BHJ Instructions:

    CRANKSHAFT FIT

    Internal diameter has been honed to minimum OEM tolerance. In many instances, this will create an excessively tight press fit. Carefully measure your crankshaft snout diameter and hone the bore of the damper to give a .001/.0015 press fit. This operation must be performed with the utmost care as too loose a fit will cause the damper to move and damage the keyway and too tight a fit may cause the damper to gall and weld itself to your crank. We highly recommend the use of an anti-seize compound since a steel hub is not as forgiving as a stock cast iron hub.
    Last edited by DLF; 10-27-2009 at 11:14 PM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DLF View Post
    Where did you measure the crank snout? Sounds like you need to measure the crank nearer the keyway.

    This is from the BHJ Instructions:

    CRANKSHAFT FIT

    Internal diameter has been honed to minimum OEM tolerance. In many instances, this will create an excessively tight press fit. Carefully measure your crankshaft snout diameter and hone the bore of the damper to give a .001/.0015 press fit. This operation must be performed with the utmost care as too loose a fit will cause the damper to move and damage the keyway and too tight a fit may cause the damper to gall and weld itself to your crank. We highly recommend the use of an anti-seize compound since a steel hub is not as forgiving as a stock cast iron hub.
    I'm alittle confused as to why you ask where I measured on the crank as it is round so it should be the same all around.. By these measurements, the BHJ unit is slightly bigger. It slides on like a good fit till it hits the keyway (I have the crank keyway lined up with the keyway grove on the balancer), then it seems it will need to be pressed from there.

  4. #4
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    Based on your measurements, the BHJ is too big for a correct fit, it should be .0015 or less, yours is .005.

    I know it's round , what I was suggesting was to measure the crank snout back around the area of the keyway, in case you did it near end of the snout.

  5. #5
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    Sounds like as Doug said, you are measuring the balancer at the wrong spot. The balancer has a stepped inner diameter and the only way to measure the proper diameter is with a dial bore gauge that you can put further into the balancer.

    If it is a new balancer, chances are you don't have to change anything. The early balancers were made a little smaller in diameter and always required honing. BHJ may not admit to this, but they have increased the size of their balancers recently. I've not had to hone one in quite awhile. Generally if you can slide the balancer on far enough to engage the keyway by hand, then you won't have to hone anything.

    Be sure to use anti-seize on the hub, and a little bit of RTV on the keyway before pressing it on, and be sure to use the proper tool to draw it up rather than risk damaging the threads in the crankshaft. If you got the balancer from Spinningwheels SC, they provide a new slightly longer crankshaft bolt with the balancer. I don't recommend using the original bolt.
    Quote Originally Posted by Miller View Post
    Ya thats why i tape mine down. People think its bc i dont have a moonroof seal (which is true) but its really to keep my roof from ripping off .
    Email me here.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by XR7 Dave View Post
    Sounds like as Doug said, you are measuring the balancer at the wrong spot. The balancer has a stepped inner diameter and the only way to measure the proper diameter is with a dial bore gauge that you can put further into the balancer.

    If it is a new balancer, chances are you don't have to change anything. The early balancers were made a little smaller in diameter and always required honing. BHJ may not admit to this, but they have increased the size of their balancers recently. I've not had to hone one in quite awhile. Generally if you can slide the balancer on far enough to engage the keyway by hand, then you won't have to hone anything.

    Be sure to use anti-seize on the hub, and a little bit of RTV on the keyway before pressing it on, and be sure to use the proper tool to draw it up rather than risk damaging the threads in the crankshaft. If you got the balancer from Spinningwheels SC, they provide a new slightly longer crankshaft bolt with the balancer. I don't recommend using the original bolt.
    Ahh, ok. I was measuring the HB in the wrong spot. I wish I had a bigger OD micrometer; mine only goes to 1". I had to measure with calipers. I got a few different measurements as it is difficult to get it in there good. I do have a set of telescopic gauges so I could accuratlely measure the ID of the balancer. So now have 1.475/1.476 ish on the crank and 1.474 on the balancer. So maybe a difference of no more than .002 which seems pretty close. I just bought the balancer from Victor about 3 weeks ago. He sent a new crank bolt. I was inquiring about the four crank pulley bolts; remove 1/4"? I plan to rent a balancer install kit from the auto parts store. Should I replace the front seal? It doesn't seem to be leaking and the motor was rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago but just as a reassurance. If its easy (if anything is for this car). Like I said, It slides on the crank till it engages the keyway and then stops as it needs to be pressed on further. Thanks alot for the help guys.


    Thomas

  7. #7
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    Sounds like you have a newer balancer, it should go on without issue. The other thing that's nice is the new ones have a mark for 26deg ATDC for setting the cam sensor when you are replacing the timing cover. I'm actually not sure if you'll need shorter pulley bolts or not, I guess just check and see.

    As long as you have the proper tools for replacing the seal, I'd do it, but if in doubt don't because you could screw things up (like crack a timing cover) if you hit things the wrong way. They do fit pretty darn tight.
    Quote Originally Posted by Miller View Post
    Ya thats why i tape mine down. People think its bc i dont have a moonroof seal (which is true) but its really to keep my roof from ripping off .
    Email me here.

  8. #8
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    I put my BHJ balancer in the oven at 250 F for ~20 minutes; which expanded the balancer bore thus allowing for much easier installation.

    Mike
    1989 Cougar XR7 - [I]Modified[/I]
    1967 Cougar XR7 - untouched -
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  9. #9
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    My balancer was very tight, but it was an older unit, which I had to hone out. Sounds like you have the proper interference fit and you should be good to go.

    Not to hijack the thread, but Dave, I sent you a few emails about shipping the k-member. I haven't heard back from you, just making sure you got the emails. It's been in the box ready to go.

  10. #10
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    Where can I get a front crank seal? The local parts places dont list them. Is this Ford only? So to repalce, I use a seal puller to remove it, then use a slightly smaller socket to drive it back it right?


    Thomas

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