What is the SAW?
Crank angle? I guess that makes the timing pretty easy to figure out.
EDIS became too problematic for this application. It's been removed entirely.
That means I'm going to have to run direct coil control from my Standalone ECU... Additionally, I'm going to have to take inputs from the Cam sensor to run the motor, which requires Printed Circuit Board modifications, and a lot more complicated wiring... I'm learning as I go here, so progress has been slow...
The good news? I got it to start at least.
The belt obviously needs to be tightened... And the oil feed for the turbo leaks. I've already ordered a replacement.
I'm fighting a problem a lot of people have bandaided in the past... I don't think it's really understood....
The Cam+Crank sensor is a optical pickup with two outputs. When the CAS is powered, and the optical sensor gets to a hole in the trigger wheel, it then supplies ground to the wiring pigtail.
The setup is supposed to use a 5v 470ohm pullup resistor to supply a baseline of current. When the CAS provides a ground, the ECU sees below 1v. When the CAS has an open connection, the 5v goes entirely to the ECU. By means of doing this, the ECU sees high-low digital signals that it can trigger the ignition and fuel from.
The downside? If voltage would rather pass to the CAS than through the CPU, you can assume the path through the CPU to ground is higher resistance than from the CPU through the CAS to ground....
My initial build did not have any extra resistors in line between the CAS and CPU. When injector bank A fired, there would be an artificial tach signal on the Crank sensor. When injector bank B fired, the CPU would freeze...
Adding a 1k resistor inbetween the CAS and the ECU was a bandaid for the situation....
To me, it sounds like the injector drivers are grounding themselves through the ECU input to the CAS.
I **Think** i can put a diode on the input and remedy the issue. I haven't had parts or time to test though.
I ended up bying 1000cc high Z injectors, and the noise problem went away. The car now runs and drives.
Still to do:
- Find/Fix coolant leak
- Tidy up wiring
- Tidy up Vacuum lines
- Put a filter on the turbo
- Change spark plugs
- Change Trans Fluid
- Adjust timing map for 100% clocked CAS
- Velcro vibrating interior pieces
- Lol as it sneezes at Jason
Bad news.... Bottom end knock. It sounds like piston slap, though I have no way to verify.
The Z is down, and the Cougar is too. This leaves me with one bay open in the garage for repairs on our daily drivers. If I take the DSM apart, I am SOL for any repairs over the winter.
Drive it until it blows apart!
I purchased a 92 TSI back in the day for $400 from the local impound auction. Got it home and knocked the snow off, took the security system out and it fired right up.
Your project makes me wish I never sold it. However, I get to still see it and my friend who now owns it has done an extensive amount of work to it. It's much faster than my Thunderbirds will ever be.
Good luck on the fix.
damn ryan you been having lot's of problems too huh.
well it will get there. just keep pluging at it.Oh and i will sneeze all over you. lol myabe even fart.
Took the car to Dad's, and dropped the pan....
No flakes in the oil. Everything was solid. There was no up-down-lateral play on any of the rods... There was very minor play from the front of the motor to the back, but the crank seemed to still be solid in place. No walk here.
A couple hours later I found this... Torque converter bolt that backed out...
Still need to research and make sure the balance shaft delete was done right. I expected to see higher oil pressure on the dummy gauge.
While it was down, I "Fixed" the cracked to hell dash
Just observing it right now... keeping an eye on blowby, oil use/contamination, and trying to find a coolant leak. If she behaves, she'll get a new radiator.
What IS that magical shifter?
Wait, what, Vatozone? Find me a PN. I will have to check that tomarrah. I really like it.