Check the single lead coming from the coil pack and going to the ignition condenser. This wire cannot touch anything and if a capacitor goes bad it will cause a short so if the wire isn't pinched or touching anywhere then unplug it to see if the condenser is bad. The wire is a single wiring coming out of the coil pack harness. Lots of times the connector insulator falls off and people think it's just a ground so they don't worry about re-insulating it.
Go to each device that is listed as being fed by that fuse. Unplug all of them and check to see if the fuse blows again. If not, plug things in one at a time until the fuse blows and you'll find the shorted device. If the fuse still blows then make sure you have everything unplugged and didn't miss anything. If the fuse continues to blow you'll need to use the EVTM manual to locate and trace the associated wiring. Look for overheated or blistered connectors or a chafed wire. This could be a real bear to find as some of these things are in hard to get to places.
My 5a fuse kept popping so I disconnected the control module and took it to an electronic expert . He thinks that it is a problem is with the MOV cap and not a burnt fuse. As seen in the picture attached. Does anyone know what the part number is is on that Mov cap as it isn't legible anymore. Thanks.
I can't find the solution anywhere are the net.
I'll be very surprised if the MOV1 is the problem, I'd put my money on the transistor/voltage regulator (with the heat sinc) or a diode on the board ---the MOV is used more to account for voltage differences in the cars charging system.....Dan