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Thread: winter suspension mods result.(pics added)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
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    Wintersville, OH
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    winter suspension mods result.(pics added)

    I didnt break it Trailered it down to the alignment shop yesterday. Everything went nice and smooth. Backed it off the rack and onto the street wound it up to 4k and dropped the clutch like it was hot. 100ft of nice smooth marks in first gear, with maybe 10ft of choppyness at the end. Never lifted and grabbed second, another 100ft of marks ending in a bit of chop. I never felt any hop at all in the car, I was pretty shocked when I saw some evidence of some in the marks. I have the bags pumped up to 25lbs, maybe Ill try a bit higher. Anyway, the car was much more precise and safer feeling. The ride wasnt to harsh but its not a buick for sure. Still smoother than our 98 vette. The one thing I kept hearing is how it would be an unsafe oversteer monster since I went to poly LCA bushings, but I say FOOEY. The car will still understeer just like before into a tight corner with no throttle. It doesnt suddenly snap the rear end out, if you what it out you still have to make it come out. I tried a couple corners sideways and its nice and controllable. The car is still getting lower by the day, I think its about stopped though, its leveled off really nice. I only have one pic, its not great, Ill take some more today hopefully. BTW I also got to try the wot box no lift shift, so far, Im not too pleased.



    Link to suspension mods http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111798

    Corey
    Last edited by neverfastenough; 03-20-2010 at 03:12 PM.

  2. #2
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    Good to hear that you like it.
    Only issue I saw, was the poly diff. bushings. Good luck getting those to hold together. I couldn't keep a set in the '94.

    -Corey

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95_XR7 View Post
    Good to hear that you like it.
    Only issue I saw, was the poly diff. bushings. Good luck getting those to hold together. I couldn't keep a set in the '94.

    -Corey
    I'm assuming the 94 was a 5-speed. I haven't heard of these failing on a auto.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90blkbrd View Post
    I'm assuming the 94 was a 5-speed. I haven't heard of these failing on a auto.
    Auto. Well then, I seem to be an odd one. Also toasted one of the halfshafts.

    -Corey

  5. #5
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    Another picture from today



    Ive heard probs with the poly diff bushings, all I can say is we'll see.

  6. #6
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    Very beautiful SC!

  7. #7
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    Car looks very clean. And slammed.

    This makes me want to buy a plane ticket back to the states tomorrow just to go drive my '95.

    -Corey

  8. #8
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    Looks good.

    I just noticed that you have Steel lower control arms. Im still wondering how you got yours to work I was under the impression that the poly bushings were going to be too small for the steel ones.

    But no wheel hop is awsome....remember tires play a role on the wheel hop thing. I had a little bit last year before I had my new nittos installed. It is now a thing of the past.
    1994 Supercoupe 5spd Custom, first to buy a 2.1L Big Bore Kenne Bell Twin Screw for an SC
    Old numbers on 1.7l AR SC: 415WHP off the bottle-12.2535 @112.18 off the bottle. Best TQ to date 516ft/lbs, New numbers 480whp on dream crusher.
    1990 35th 5spd 2011 Carlisle 1st place class winner. 12.9@108MPH 1.9
    2013 GT/CS 5.0L FRPP 2.3l Whipplecharged family weekend car
    2005 SAAB 9-3 Aero 2.0L TURBO Work Mule

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricardoa1 View Post
    Looks good.

    I just noticed that you have Steel lower control arms. Im still wondering how you got yours to work I was under the impression that the poly bushings were going to be too small for the steel ones.

    But no wheel hop is awsome....remember tires play a role on the wheel hop thing. I had a little bit last year before I had my new nittos installed. It is now a thing of the past.
    Ha you shoulda seen me flipping out in the garage, I drilled/burned out the rubber out of the sleeves figuring Id have to leave them. I should have looked at the bushing first. NO way where they going to fit, so I pressed the sleeves out. They had a perfect press fit. Just having to machine new metal sleeves for inside of two bushings was my only hold up.

    Corey
    Last edited by neverfastenough; 03-26-2010 at 06:15 PM.

  10. #10
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    Thats what I dont get..The TCCOa guys swear that you must use the stock bushing sleeve by burning the rubber out. And you say the bore diameter ID on the arms match perfect with the poly bushing OD? Thats good to know I guess, makes it slightly easier.

    What brand did you buy?

    Now I looked at your other post on the matter and tried to compare notes between yours and mine. But I see differences and I was unable to follow your parts (stock, poly kit, and machine shop) VS mine. I might have a oversized inner bushing compared to the bolt but the way I see it that bushing/sleeve will get pinched by the plates on the subframe. And only the poly bushing and the arm will rotate. The inner metal sleeve should not. If it does then then I am screwed and you are good to go.

    Also looking at your pictures the arm will not move because the side where it meets the toe compensator has the mushroom lip there. But that is not strong enough to keeping the arm from sliding forward. And if it does tear the lip then the arm will move. Unless you put a large washer there that I dont see. Hence thats why I had Ken make me the washers on mine.
    1994 Supercoupe 5spd Custom, first to buy a 2.1L Big Bore Kenne Bell Twin Screw for an SC
    Old numbers on 1.7l AR SC: 415WHP off the bottle-12.2535 @112.18 off the bottle. Best TQ to date 516ft/lbs, New numbers 480whp on dream crusher.
    1990 35th 5spd 2011 Carlisle 1st place class winner. 12.9@108MPH 1.9
    2013 GT/CS 5.0L FRPP 2.3l Whipplecharged family weekend car
    2005 SAAB 9-3 Aero 2.0L TURBO Work Mule

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricardoa1 View Post
    Thats what I dont get..The TCCOa guys swear that you must use the stock bushing sleeve by burning the rubber out. And you say the bore diameter ID on the arms match perfect with the poly bushing OD? Thats good to know I guess, makes it slightly easier.

    What brand did you buy?

    Now I looked at your other post on the matter and tried to compare notes between yours and mine. But I see differences and I was unable to follow your parts (stock, poly kit, and machine shop) VS mine. I might have a oversized inner bushing compared to the bolt but the way I see it that bushing/sleeve will get pinched by the plates on the subframe. And only the poly bushing and the arm will rotate. The inner metal sleeve should not. If it does then then I am screwed and you are good to go.

    Also looking at your pictures the arm will not move because the side where it meets the toe compensator has the mushroom lip there. But that is not strong enough to keeping the arm from sliding forward. And if it does tear the lip then the arm will move. Unless you put a large washer there that I dont see. Hence thats why I had Ken make me the washers on mine.
    The Cobra bore diameters are 56.20/55.20mm and 50.15/49.20mm without the sleeves, and both are stepped.

    The MN-12 bore diameters are 56.25/55.25mm and 50.40/49.40mm, also without the sleeves, and again, both are stepped.

    The Mark VIII LCA bore diameters are 52.05mm and 45.90mm, without steps.

    The Poly bushings that I've seen sold for the Cobra LCA's are designed to be used in the stock metal sleeves.

    I see how you might be able to use the Cobra Poly bushings in the stock MN-12 sleeves, but I don't undrstand how you can do it without them, unless you find a set that is made to use without the sleeves.

    And I strongly agree that there's a BIG issue with your install, and that there isn't anything to prevent the LCA's from moving forward.

  12. #12
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    The lca bushing are energy. The bushing cannot move forward or back, it reuses the rear bushings inner sleeve. It is samwiched into the pocket just as a factory would be. I may have some special LCA bushing since Im not using sleeves, but the stuff fit well enought to please me. I am very confident on how things went together. I understand that the lip is holding the lca from moving forward, but the combination of that plus the fact that the bushings are pressed in makes me think its not going to rip that lip off. I would be afraid if the bushings fit loose, but they absolutely fit tight. They required a 3 jaw puller to press them in.

    Corey
    Last edited by neverfastenough; 03-26-2010 at 08:43 PM.

  13. #13
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    Well, good luck. Let's see what happens in the next year.

  14. #14
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  15. #15
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    Im not trying to be a suspension guru. Im just stating that the bushings fit well. And I think/hope it will stay put. If they dont, It wont be because of the bushings not fitting properly in the arm, it will be because they dont fit tightly in the pocket. Washers could make them 100% move free if they arent now.

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