After new dis and new crank sensor... still no spark!!!

derekhay316

Registered User
Ok I put in a new DIS and a new crank sensor and there's still no spark. Actually it sparked once and then never after that. What the hell? Any ideas? Maybe cam shaft senor? How do you put that in? Do you just pretty much plug it in or what? Thanks in advance.
 
Checked fuse?

Check the ignition fuse in the box under the hood,30amp,I think.I had the same problem on my 90 Sc--replaced crank sensor,DIS--still no spark--found blown fuse,replaced fuse and no problem.
Good luck,
z
 
K i checked the fuse and they're all fine. So does this mean its the cam sensor then? What else could it be? Please help.
 
EEC power relay? Check your power distribution box and try swapping a few relays around. Have you tried to pull any codes?
 
Sure it would spark once, right before the fuse blew!

You may need to replace the coil pack, that is the next culpret.
 
The upshift light is still staying on during cranking. Does this mean that the crank sensor is still screwed or what?
 
Re-Check the position

The position of the sensor has to be just so...I have seen other posts similar where re-positioning it made the difference...

Good luck..
 
With the Key On, the Red/lite-Green wire at the crank sensor (pin 4) and cam sensor (pin 4) and DIS (pin 1) should be +12V. Check the 30A fuse in the power distribution box under the hood. If still no volts, check your ignition switch.
 
There's no voltage getting to the sensors. XR7 Dave said to check the EEC power relay and a fuse near the starter solenoid. Does this ring any bells?
 
Absolutely.. The EEC power relay is inside the Integrated Relay Control Module (IRCM) which is bolted to the frame just in front of the air cleaner. Not sure if its servicable; you could try bypassing it with a jumper wire to test it. Don't have my wiring diagrams handy to tell you exactly how to do that, so let someone know if you need one.
 
Belay that comment... check the fuse.. the wiring diagram says that you should have 12 at those pins with the ignition switched on.. if you don't its not the EEC power relay.
 
K we got all the voltage back and there's 12 at the crank sensor and cam sensor. So its the eec then? Where the hell is that under the hood? Couldn't find it. Thanks
 
OK.. look back up to a prior post on the location of the IRCM. When you find it, check the voltage at the Red wire (pin 24) with the ignition on and the connector plugged in. Should be 12V. If so, the EEC power relay is working, if not, check the Yellow wire (pin 8). If it is 12V, then the EEC power relay is shot. If that wire is 0, check the 30A EEC fuse in the power distribution box behind the battery.
You can bypass the EEC power relay by unplugging the connector and jumpering the red to the yellow wire (pin 8 to pin 24) to see if the car then starts. Just don't drive like that, you'll have no power for the cooling fan. The IRCM isn't servicable, I think you have to replace the whole thing. I don't think its very cheap either :(
 
Not sure, but its a box of 3 relays and a few circuits.. shouldn't be more that $50 I'd think, but you can just never tell with Ford parts. Call around first. Be sure to check Napa.

Ouch.. this was from carparts.com:

Relay Assy. Cooling Fan
• Special order product / Usually ships in 10 - 15 business days. MOTORCRAFT RR-14 $123.27

For that, I'd call a few salvage yards first. Did your's check out as bad?
 
I had this happen to me and it turned out the crankbolt was missing, causing the damper/pulley assembly to slide off the crank just enough that the crank sensor wasn't getting a signal.
 
K I checked for power at pin 24 with the ignition on and it does have 12 v's. So that means the eec is fine then right? What the heck could the problem be? Thanks a lot all you guys, I appreciate it :)
 
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